.50 inline boolits-decisions,decisions

[shoestring]

my son and i got cva inlines from cabelas for xmas. if you spend enough money there the start giving you stuff for free. anyways, all of the sabot's seem great, but a bit too pricey for plinking. I already cast for my hand guns, so was wondering if any of the molds i have would suffice, or if i should buy another mold for sabots or buy a .50 mold and forget about the sabots all together. I have a buttload of ww but not alot of pure lead, and what i do have i want to save for my C&B. I could always get more pure lead i guess. anyways, here is a list of the molds i could start using for sabots.

.452 rn-gc-230g
.452 swc-250g
.429 swc-gc-240g

any suggestions would be helpful.

[skullmount]

shoestring,

Try either of the .452 and a MMP sabot

Lots of guys shoot their ww bullets in smokepoles with good results, wrapped in plastic...of course!

Have fun working up a load :D

[45r]

Ones with a GC minus the check work better.Babores 300 looks like the best one if you buy a mold.

[Willbird]

I think the sabots cost too much to cast bullets to fit inside them, the cheapest sabots I have seen are what $14 per hundred ??

Paper patched bullets are striking me right now as the best solution, another poster mentioned using the Lee C501-440-RF paper patched in a 50, I have that mold and wrapped a few up for giggles, two wraps of copy paper ends up about .514 dia, groove dia is .511, and the QLA on my gun measured .515.

Bill

[desteve811]

I think the sabots cost too much to cast bullets to fit inside them, the cheapest sabots I have seen are what $14 per hundred ??

Paper patched bullets are striking me right now as the best solution, another poster mentioned using the Lee C501-440-RF paper patched in a 50, I have that mold and wrapped a few up for giggles, two wraps of copy paper ends up about .514 dia, groove dia is .511, and the QLA on my gun measured .515.

Bill

Dont know much about paper patching but wouldnt the paper come off when you ram the bullet down the barrel?

[Willbird]

Dont know much about paper patching but wouldnt the paper come off when you ram the bullet down the barrel?


If done properly it should not. The first paper patched bullets were intended for muzzle loaders I THINK ? Many muzzle loaders made today have a sort of built in false muzzle, mines does.

Bill

[desteve811]

interesting...

[Bullshop]

I think that for ML rifles the Chase patch or cross patch was the most commonly used as opposed to the pre patched boolit.
In basic form the cross patch is strips of paper cut to the caliber for width and to the bullet length for length.
In loading the strips are laid on the muzzle in a cross or X pattern. The boolit base is set center on the X and started down the muzzle. This can also be done with RB. It can also use more than two strips of paper.
Patched this way there is no interference between the boolit and patch separation as the exit the muzzle.
I like to use this type patching for both boolit and ball and it works very well for me.
This can also be used for muzzle loading breach loaders but the procedure will be different. Muzzle loading breach loaders was at one time believed to be, and may well be potentially the most accurate way to align a boolit in the barrel.
This however is a whole nother subject with all its own issues.
Blessings
BIC/BS

[shoestring]

i think i will pick up a hundred sabots and give the .452 a shot. i have a feeling the gc ones less the check will fit the sabot better. cheap enough considering i have the molds already.

[Screwbolts]

for sabots go to Grafs and sons, they have the best prices, I but the Harvester sabots by the case from them. they will be around $9/100

Ken

[10 ga]

For plinking my Firehawk shoots patched roundball real good with 50 gr FF or even F. Also cheap too, get a REAL mould and use pure lead for the boolits. Check out the swap forum to trade WW for pure. Of course I have to say best to stick with the "Holy Black". 10 ga

[idahoron]

I am the guy that paper patches the Lee C-501-440-RF and others. I have a little write up I did on paper patching I will post it for those that want to see it. Ron

[Bloodman14]

I plink/practice with Lee's .452-230-R cast WW in my Traditions Pursuit XL and 100 grs Pyrodex RS using T/C's black sabots. Cheap fun!

[buckweet]

I think that for ML rifles the Chase patch or cross patch was the most commonly used as opposed to the pre patched boolit.
In basic form the cross patch is strips of paper cut to the caliber for width and to the bullet length for length.
In loading the strips are laid on the muzzle in a cross or X pattern. The boolit base is set center on the X and started down the muzzle. This can also be done with RB. It can also use more than two strips of paper.
Patched this way there is no interference between the boolit and patch separation as the exit the muzzle.
I like to use this type patching for both boolit and ball and it works very well for me.
This can also be used for muzzle loading breach loaders but the procedure will be different. Muzzle loading breach loaders was at one time believed to be, and may well be potentially the most accurate way to align a boolit in the barrel.
This however is a whole nother subject with all its own issues.
Blessings
BIC/BS




now that ? is very very interesting...:!:

[Jayhem]

I would forget sabots and go with a good a Lee conical mold for $20 from midway or other source. If you work up a load conicals are every bit as accurate as sabots and a lot cheaper because you don't need a sabot.