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pls1911
12-26-2009, 11:49 AM
I thought I had already posted the question, but can't find it....
I have a beatuiful 1936 Marlin with a slight verticle movement in the stack.

I was thinking of a very slight epoxy/sawdust build up over the mating surfaces and a build up of the tang hole as well, providing a surface for minor refitting.

I build cedar strip boats too, so I'm familiar with the material and finishing process.

Any suggestions for altenate approaches??

EMC45
12-26-2009, 12:03 PM
Sawdust/epoxy. That's how I'd do it!

GrizzLeeBear
12-26-2009, 10:10 PM
Wow, this is weird. I just had my Marlin 1936 (32 HPS) that I bought this summer out shooting today, and put it back in the safe about a half hour ago. Before I put it away I notice the stock wiggled up and down a little and was thinking about how I could fix it. I haven't ever taken the stock off so I'm not sure how it is attached to the frame, is it just the screw through the tang? Maybe a little Acraglas under the wood where it mates up to the frame?

docone31
12-26-2009, 10:22 PM
I did not have your model, but I did have a 336 in 30-30 that did that.
I removed the stock, got some brass tube.
I bedded the brass tube into the stock to hold the bolts through the two straps of the reciever.
While I was at it, I did bed the wood also. Worked out ok.

beemer
12-26-2009, 11:02 PM
The stock should be snug between the top and bottom tang. It should fit solid at the front where it fits the reciever, this is where it takes the recoil. I like to leave a very small gap at the back of the tang and some clearence in the bolt hole. If these parts touch the stock they act like a wedge and the recoil can cause it to split.

Your stock has probably shrunk slightly over the years causing a loose fit. The epoxy treatment will work if the wood is not oil soaked.

Dave

MtGun44
12-27-2009, 01:51 AM
How about acraglass stock bedding compound from Brownell's?

Strong, filled epoxy with colorant to match your wood if any of it
might show. Not as cheap as home made stuff, but well tested and
intended for closing the gap between stocks and actions.

Bill

NickSS
12-27-2009, 02:53 AM
I like the accugel product better as it is not as runny when installing it as accuglass. I have bedded a couple of stocks that were loose. I take a dremmel burr tool and rough up the wood in the bottom of the channel where the upper and lower tang goes (not much just a couple of rough grooves a few hundredths deep. I also do the same around the tung that buts up to the action. I removed the mainspring and hammer from the rifle and pulled the bolt etc. I then masked around the stock areas to be glassed with masking tape and liberally coated the mettal of the tang and action where the bedding would come in contact with it with Johnson's paste wax. Apply the accugel to the stock areas to be bedded then insert the stock firmly in place. Clean off any excess bedding compound per the instructions on the kit. After it sets and cures remove the stock and clean up the metal as required then reassemble the rifle and stock and you will now have a solid stock that will not move.

MtGun44
12-27-2009, 05:48 PM
I'll try the gel next time. Good info.

Bill

rmb721
12-27-2009, 08:48 PM
I did my Marlin model 36 with the Accugel.