should I be concerned? Safety

[gray wolf]

There has been talk here about lead pots for smelting WW or whatever,
and I have a question.
My friend gave me a home made stand with a hose and regulator attached and the part that goes onto the tank. It also has a sliding thingy that looks like it controls air flow to the burner. I did not have a Propane tank so I picked one up from the dump and he said just take it to a refill station and pay 20 or so bucks and they will give me a tank that is filled and ready to go. Said they don't care how old your tank is. I know how to use soapy water to test for leaks around the fittings but do I need Teflon tape on the fittings ?
I looked at all the wells and the stand and burner look to be solid sept for a little rust. What do I need to know about this so I don't blow up my yard
Well my question about the pot--
He gave me a-- looks like a 6 quart cast iron dutch oven. It is old and has been used--a little rust. You guy's scared me when you talked about these pots cracking and being dangerous. Well how does one know? I have a better looking one of the same size next to the wood stove that we keep stove **** in and I may be able to do switch.( wife at the store).
I also thought of Stainless steel but need some help on that one.
So what do I do? I want to be safe.

Thank you men--------:drinks:--------------:castmine:

GW

[HollandNut]

I have used cast iron with propane for .. well many years .. nary a problem .. I dont use teflon tape .. just snug the fitting to the bottle good and tight ( it is reverse threaded , righty loosey , lefty tighty ) , and the only other things are make sure the hose is in good shape , and remember once you use the cast iron for lead , it should never be used for food ..

[HammerMTB]

Usually folks do their smelting outdoors. I say this because if you smelt indoors, there are more things to consider.
So, addressing only outdoor use, be advised that:
Propane has an odor added. You can get a whiff of it when you go to get your tank filled. I keep several 5 gallon size tanks around the house. They are quite safe, if you just follow some basic safety rules. Know the smell (it's kind of garlic-y)
Wear gloves and safety glasses when connecting/disconnecting. This is because the release of propane to the atmosphere gets very cold (-21F comes to mind, but that may not be absolutely correct) and will frostbite you instantly. Don't store propane tanks indoors or in a closed area. This is because if the tank should develop a leak it would fill the area with flammable gas.
Older tanks have a left-hand thread for their discharge valve, but newer ones have a different, right hand thread. If you have the old style left-hand thread on your appliance, the left-hand thread fitting is inside the late model tank's valve exit.

As to the cast iron, if you want to be extra cautious, just put a small amount of lead in the first time you heat it up. It is very unlikely to be defective in any way, so this advice to let to get you started extra safe. If it were cracked, you'd be able to see it. Come to think of it, just bang it. I mean bang it with a hammer. If it rings, it's solid. If it gives a dull thud, it's cracked.

Last, with the assumption that you will be smelting outdoors, NOT IN THE RAIN or even threat of rain. When water contacts molten lead, it instantly turns to steam. The rapid expansion of the water blows tiny bit of molten lead all over the place. This is referred to here as a visit from the tinsel fairy. It takes little imagination to see why. Take every precaution to prevent this. A tiny bit is slightly dangerous. A larger amount could cause considerable burns. You're working with 700F+ degree molten metal. You need not be scared of it, but know the dangers and respect the power therein.

[Jayhem]

Propane, when used outdoors is very safe. There is no way you will concentrate enough vapor, even with a major leak to cause an explosion if you have adequate open air ventilation. If you smell propane...then fix a leak.

[gray wolf]

Ok thank you so far so good. Let me understand about the fitting.
I hooked up the tank from the dump and it is left hand thread--counter clockwise to put on.
Are you saying there is a piece inside the newer tanks that comes out so I can use the set up? Or do I need some kind of a switch aroo addapter?

Thank you

GW.

[HammerMTB]

Ok thank you so far so good. Let me understand about the fitting.
I hooked up the tank from the dump and it is left hand thread--counter clockwise to put on.
Are you saying there is a piece inside the newer tanks that comes out so I can use the set up? Or do I need some kind of a switch aroo addapter?

Thank you

GW.

No, the newer tanks have an external right-hand fitting. It is larger and uses a big male thread- maybe Acme, but if not that then very similar.
If you can connect the tank and appliance now, don't worry about it. You have it handled.
If you come upon a new style tank, the old style female thread is inside the new style fitting. As soon as you see one, you will see what I mean.
Here, I found ya an article (http://rvbasics.com/techtips/rv-propane-tank-valves.html)- follow the link

[gray wolf]

That was a good read. It clearly showed the new style connector.
I HAVE THE OLDER ONE. Looks like the new one has thread on the outside but gives you thread on the inside for the older type. So I can use what I have or if I want I can get a new hose.

Thank you so much

GW.

[ghh3rd]

I know people who store their tanks inside of their garage. That idea makes me a bit nervous, so I have always stored mine outdoors, on a porch or other outdoor shelter, where any leakage could just blow away.

[runfiverun]

i would be more worried about getting a tank from the junk yard.
i would definately suck up the cost and trade it at the store for one of the new ones.
most places won't fill the old ones anyways.

[HammerMTB]

i would be more worried about getting a tank from the junk yard.
i would definately suck up the cost and trade it at the store for one of the new ones.
most places won't fill the old ones anyways.

I think that's what the guy at the junkyard was sayin'
If the tank has only the old style threads, it is way too old to get refilled, unless the attendant isn't paying attention or just doesn't care.
They can be traded in at any of the trade your tank places for a current style tank full of propane. Then yer off and runnin'
or smeltin'
or BBQin'
fryin' yer turkey
whatever [smilie=l:

[HollandNut]

Tanks have to be tested evry twelve years . should have a date stamp near the carry handles in most I have seen .. If it's over twelve years , they wont fill it .. Imagine exchanges have to be useable tanks ..

[Just Duke]

Check out my foundry thread. You'll be just fine.

[gray wolf]

I am sure the tank I got from the dump is an old one. My plan was to just exchange it for one they have Pre filled. What is that little air flow slider for?
It's right before the burnner.

GW.

[HollandNut]

does just what you say , can adjust amount of air mixing with the gas , more or less

[HammerMTB]

I am sure the tank I got from the dump is an old one. My plan was to just exchange it for one they have Pre filled. What is that little air flow slider for?
It's right before the burnner.

GW.

Just like HollandNut says, it adjusts the air/fuel ratio. Unless you have a problem with the unit, leave it alone. They come preset.

[ubetcha]

Most old tank will probably not be refilled or returnable for exchange because of an internal overfill valve that is designed in the new tanks.New tanks are not that expensive anyway.

[lwknight]

For propane, run the airflow damper wide open unless you get a flame lifting off the burner then you might close it a bit. If its closed too much you will be seeing yelloe flames and a lot of soot on your pot. Some burners soot up anyway and nothing to do about it.

[farmerfish77]

You should'nt need teflon tape when connecting brass to brass. Steel to steel fittings and possibly brass to steel, use tape or paste. Have never had a leaking problem connecting to the valve on propane tank. You can get a new valve, but it is just about as cheap to just buy a new tank, they're not that much and then you are good to go for a long time.

[gray wolf]

Sounds good I WILL take all your advise.

GW.

[mpmarty]

I recently converted to the new style tanks and wound up with four old five gallon tanks of the early design. Took them to the dump with a load of trash and was told the dump wouldn't take them unless they had holes in them. What fun!!:bigsmyl2: Set the tanks out at the 75 yard line on my home range and started banging away with my XD45. No joy:-o Only slight dents, no holes. Went and got the 45/70 and WOW what a fun target to shoot at. Must have been some propane left in that one. The dump took them after that and just grinned at the holes made by the 45/70

[montana_charlie]

I would shy away from testing a cast iron pot for cracks by banging it with a hammer.
I might try a whack with a plastic mallet to listen to the ring, but not something made of steel.

Smack a pot with a ball peen and, if it wasn't cracked before, it probably is now.

Cast iron is strong and durable, but it's brittle...

CM

[Big Dave]

Brandy new tank at Home Depot is about 25 bucks or less for what these guys are calling a 5 gallon, actually 20 pound and hold a little over 4 gallons of LP. All the old illegal tanks had a round valve handle like an outside water faucet, legal new style tanks have a triangular handle on the valve. You can tell at a glance. Lot of refill trade places will take the old tanks in trade but charge enough that buying a new tankis cheaper. Around here those trade places charge enough that it is a LOT cheaper to keep your own tank and get it filled at a place that fills while you wait. Camp grounds and RV parks and like that. Also most home heating fuel dealers.