Lyman 4cavs...

[jdgabbard]

I've been using a 4-Cav that I've had for a little while now. Its a 356402. Drops great boolits at right at .358, and other then taking a little longer to heat up than a two cav its a wonderful mold.

However, I've noticed something since I've gotten this mold. Is it just me, or do this gang molds just take man hands to cut the sprue? I usually try to cut it with my hand, but this mold says "No!" I've actually have to use a wooden mallet. My alloy is straight WW... Anybody else notice this with the Lymans?

[David2011]

I guess that WOULD hurt! Nope, never noticed this problem but then I never tried to cut any sprue without using a striking device. I use a claw hammer handle (new, no hammer head attached). Most of my pistol boolit molds are 4 cavity and take a pretty sharp strike. I don't think it's a Lyman specific issue. I also have RCBS and Saeco 4 hole molds and they all cut about the same.

David

[jdgabbard]

Yeah, I've seen videos on the 6cav Lees that just open up when the handle is pulled. But not on this one... Thats for sure!

[deltaenterprizes]

Yeah, I've seen videos on the 6cav Lees that just open up when the handle is pulled. But not on this one... Thats for sure!

That is because the Lees have a cam that gives leverage to cut the sprues. You need to closely examine a lee to see how it works.[smilie=b:

[JIMinPHX]

Some alloys cut easier than others.

You could try to sharpen up your sprue plate holes a little bit.

If you're just casting plinkers & you can tolerate a divot in the center of the base of thr boolit, then you could try cutting the sprue before it's fully hardened.

[tackstrp]

That cam operation is the very reason I sold my lyman moulds. Only use Lee six cavity molds now. happy camper.

[jdgabbard]

Yeah, the plate has been sharpened by the previous owner... But its still pretty darn hard to cut. Yeah, this mold is for my carbine... So to try and get the best groups I can I've been waiting on the sprue to completely solidify... Oh well. I guess some things just must be endured...

[armyrat1970]

I have single and double cavity Lees and always use a little plastic mallet to cut the sprue. Only takes one whack. Quick and easy and just to hard by hand.

[BruceB]

I've used a light plastic mallet on all my moulds for decades.

The mallet now has both faces worn completely across at an angle of about 35 degrees to the line of strike, and I'm looking for a replacement. So far, no luck....I'm fussy!

According to the testimony of my moulds, there is NO HARM done by using the mallet to cut sprues.

Just as armyrat says, one quick rap and the sprue is cut cleanly.

[garandsrus]

I cut all the sprue's with a gloved hand. I cut them after they solidify, but while they are still soft. Once the sprue is solid, there's no reason to wait in my opinion as no more lead can be sucked into the cavity.

John

[mtgrs737]

I use a rawhide mallet and wonder why it took me so long to start using one. They work great! Mine is about 2"round x 3"long.

[Cloudpeak]

I cut all the sprue's with a gloved hand. I cut them after they solidify, but while they are still soft. Once the sprue is solid, there's no reason to wait in my opinion as no more lead can be sucked into the cavity.
John

I agree. If the mold is up to temp, there's no need to bang on anything. I preheat on a hotplate and can open the sprue cutter right off the bat with my Lyman and Lee molds.

[David2011]

Have you tried experimenting with how long you let it cool before cutting? It shouldn't take long to figure out how long after the color change you need to wait to cut the sprue. It will vary with your melt temp but for me it's ready to cut without tearing out after about 2 seconds. If I wait much longer it takes a real solid whack with the hickory hammer handle.

I have one Lee 6 cavity mold which does open pretty easily but the cam handle needs to be attached with red heat resistant RTV silicone.

Harbor Freight has some welding cloves that are adequate for casting at the right price. They run anywhere from $4.99 for one pair to $9.99 for 3 pair.

David

[Shuz]

I've used a light rawhide mallet for years on all my moulds. The face of the mallet used to be about 2 inches and perpendicular to the handle. Like Bruce B's, mine has show a lot of wear and I'm in the market for a replacement.

[MT Gianni]

I use old wooden pins from removed power lines. They last a few years before getting too far torn up to use.

[stubshaft]

I've used a light rawhide mallet for years on all my moulds. The face of the mallet used to be about 2 inches and perpendicular to the handle. Like Bruce B's, mine has show a lot of wear and I'm in the market for a replacement.


When mine had "mushroomed" I used a power sanding disc to grind down the edges and set the face back.

[TAWILDCATT]

I have stanley hammer and you can replace heads.harbor freight has plastic head hammers.even the old timers used a mallet to cut sprues.there also is an atachment that you can get to attach to the tab.dont do it by hand.and I have 38 and 45 lyman 4 cavity.they all work the same.I did ball mill the cut off from first cavity to last. it feeds better.:coffeecom

[jdgabbard]

I guess a mallet it is. Now lets just see if I can get used to it...