Buckshot
12-21-2009, 03:46 AM
.............. Been busier then a one legged man in a fanny kicking contest recently. Between outside machine work, helpless relatives with plumbing and electrical problems, Donna allowed me to build her a deck :-) :
http://www.fototime.com/B98CC8CB98B068A/standard.jpg
Had to build it between rain storms. At least it gave me a chance to do the indoors stuff. Working for relatives you get paid with cakes and haircuts, ha! So anyway, in between job setups or with the lathe power feeding out, I was doing some brass prep stuff. I had a hundred 40-65 cases to get ready. While checking some things out I found out my Lyman die was sizing the cases down to .403" and I size my boolits to .410" for my Pedersoli RB. That's too much brass working.
Not much to be done to the size die, or nothing I was willing to tackle anyhow. For my Savage M10 FP 308 I'd gotten a Redding insert type neck sizing setup. I wondered why I couldn't make up something like that for the 40-65? So in between times I came up with this:
http://www.fototime.com/57FDCC442C1911E/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/F8A71123107F86F/standard.jpg
I took one of my Lee push through die blanks to use for the body. Taking a few measurments I drilled it and then taper reamed it for clearance. The swapped it around in the collet and bored it to depth for a .625" OD insert and then bored and threaded it 3/4-16 for the insert stop piece.
http://www.fototime.com/270BFCD63A02CF7/standard.jpg
Later on I made the insert. The next day I honed it to size me a caseneck ID of .408". I didn't know if it would be best to have it a snug slip fit in the die body, or allow a bit of windage for self aligning? I split the diff and gave it a thou and a half clearance in the die body. It's effective sizing length is 5/8" but all I really need is a half inch. Even a 400 gr slug only seats about that deep.
http://www.fototime.com/A3331B06E102577/standard.jpg
That evening before being allowed into the house [smilie=l: I made the height stop piece. When you push a case up into the die, the casemouth hits and will push the insert up a bit before it hits the stop, so the caseneck can enter and get sized. This way the die body doesn't have to be screwed up and down if sizing for different boolit weights (lengths). You can vary the length of the sized portion via the height stopper.
http://www.fototime.com/76048B8345C2DA4/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/95847C932E75A34/standard.jpg
The top case has made a trip into the insert sizer. The bottom case is fired and unsized. On the right is just another view of the sizing the insert does. It is very consistent in it's size around the case. The Lyman size die pretty much puts a taper on the whole top third of the case. This way with the insert only the part actually gripping the boolit gets sized. I wasn't looking for an accuracy enhancing deal as the rifle shoots way beyond my capabilities to hold it, but it was merely something to lessen brass working, and it does do that. Plus all you need is lube up around the casemouth for sizing.
.................Buckshot
http://www.fototime.com/B98CC8CB98B068A/standard.jpg
Had to build it between rain storms. At least it gave me a chance to do the indoors stuff. Working for relatives you get paid with cakes and haircuts, ha! So anyway, in between job setups or with the lathe power feeding out, I was doing some brass prep stuff. I had a hundred 40-65 cases to get ready. While checking some things out I found out my Lyman die was sizing the cases down to .403" and I size my boolits to .410" for my Pedersoli RB. That's too much brass working.
Not much to be done to the size die, or nothing I was willing to tackle anyhow. For my Savage M10 FP 308 I'd gotten a Redding insert type neck sizing setup. I wondered why I couldn't make up something like that for the 40-65? So in between times I came up with this:
http://www.fototime.com/57FDCC442C1911E/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/F8A71123107F86F/standard.jpg
I took one of my Lee push through die blanks to use for the body. Taking a few measurments I drilled it and then taper reamed it for clearance. The swapped it around in the collet and bored it to depth for a .625" OD insert and then bored and threaded it 3/4-16 for the insert stop piece.
http://www.fototime.com/270BFCD63A02CF7/standard.jpg
Later on I made the insert. The next day I honed it to size me a caseneck ID of .408". I didn't know if it would be best to have it a snug slip fit in the die body, or allow a bit of windage for self aligning? I split the diff and gave it a thou and a half clearance in the die body. It's effective sizing length is 5/8" but all I really need is a half inch. Even a 400 gr slug only seats about that deep.
http://www.fototime.com/A3331B06E102577/standard.jpg
That evening before being allowed into the house [smilie=l: I made the height stop piece. When you push a case up into the die, the casemouth hits and will push the insert up a bit before it hits the stop, so the caseneck can enter and get sized. This way the die body doesn't have to be screwed up and down if sizing for different boolit weights (lengths). You can vary the length of the sized portion via the height stopper.
http://www.fototime.com/76048B8345C2DA4/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/95847C932E75A34/standard.jpg
The top case has made a trip into the insert sizer. The bottom case is fired and unsized. On the right is just another view of the sizing the insert does. It is very consistent in it's size around the case. The Lyman size die pretty much puts a taper on the whole top third of the case. This way with the insert only the part actually gripping the boolit gets sized. I wasn't looking for an accuracy enhancing deal as the rifle shoots way beyond my capabilities to hold it, but it was merely something to lessen brass working, and it does do that. Plus all you need is lube up around the casemouth for sizing.
.................Buckshot