Should Paper Patched Bullets Be Lubricated?

[Reverend Recoil]

I have been getting pretty good results with un-lubricated paper patched bullets. Other than water proofing is there anything to be gained with some type of lubricant?

[Old Coot]

The only reasons I can see for lubing a PP bullet is when sizing the patched bullet or to help keep the patch from tearing when loading the bullet into the case.
Most people use Johnsons Paste Wax (JPW) for this. A little dab will do ya! Turtle wax is only good for subsonic rounds.

[docone31]

I only use wax for final sizeing, and weather proofing.
I do not use wax heavily.

[303Guy]

Someone suggested that without lube, paper is somewhat abrasive. Maybe. Maybe the lube reduces friction. The only way to find out would be for someone with a chrono to do some tests. It has already been demonstrated that a patched boolit has less drag in the bore than grease grooved cast.

I like the idea of leaving a lube coating in the bore for corrosion protection.

[pdawg_shooter]

I use lube to reduce bore friction and to water proof my patches.

[Digital Dan]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=34782

Lube is good.

[303Guy]

Just a thought. Cleaning a bore is done with an oiled patch right? Would the same principle apply to paper patches?

[bonza]

Lately I've been giving my patched boolits a light spray with Hornady Quick Lube, the aerosol case sizing lubricant. It's dry to the touch in a fairly short time, so won't be prone to picking up dirt etc., but I really have no clue whether or not it has any other benefit to the shooting qualities. I too had read that PP boolits tend to be more abrasive to the bore than GG, so that's why I started lubing mine.....I used to rub a smear of SPG onto them before switching to the Quick Lube.

[docone31]

I tried all that.
I have found, when a spray is used, it penetrates the patch and loosens the paper bond. The patch material got weaker.
I found, even Auto Wax that I use, if I use too much, does the same thing.
A dab will do ya.

[montana_charlie]

Just a thought. Cleaning a bore is done with an oiled patch right? Would the same principle apply to paper patches?
Can't say what lubrication on paper patches is worth, but I am balking at the notion of using oil to clean.

I have cleaned machine guns with diesel fuel...which is an oil...but it was used to 'dissolve' the built-up residue. That makes it a 'solvent'.
In all of my other cleaning, I also use solvent (Hoppes, etc.) to clean. With black powder, the solvent is primarily water.

Once the bore is clean, a dry patch is used to remove the solvent traces, and get a final reading on cleanliness.

The oiled patch is used to apply a 'preservative'...after the cleaning and drying is done.

Isn't that true for you, too...when you think about it?

CM

[docone31]

Down here, if we use oil on the firearms, we get rust.
Oil floats on water.
We clean, then use wax rather than oils.
Best thing I ever found out to do. No rust on the blueing yet.

[bonza]

I have found, when a spray is used, it penetrates the patch and loosens the paper bond. The patch material got weaker.

Hmm, I haven't noticed that, but generally I shoot the loads within a day or two of spraying the bullets. The paper I've been using is Mead Eraseable Typewrier Paper which seems to have a slightly tacky quality when wet & seems to hold on very well when dry. I'll have to spray some with the Quick Lube & let them sit for a while & see if I notice any degradation.

[303Guy]

... diesel fuel...which is an oil...but it was used to 'dissolve' the built-up residue. That makes it a 'solvent' ...Exactly. I use Rapid-Tap when I have it. I didn't think of diesel oil - thanks for the tip. Penetrating oils would be as good.


The oiled patch is used to apply a 'preservative'...after the cleaning and drying is done.

Isn't that true for you, too...when you think about it?Yes it is true. Which is why I like the Rapid-Tap so much. It penetrates, disolves and protects against rust, even though it does dry out in time.

We do know that not lubing the patch prior to sizing will result in the core slipping in the patch.

Anyway, I'm all for lubing the patch.

[mroliver77]

Paper might be more abrasive than lead. I bet copper jacketed bullets are harder on a barrel than PP. EVERYTHING you put down the tube damages it to some extent. There is crushed glass in some primer compounds!I like the idea of a tiny bit of lube on any boolit/bullet going down the tube. Even my jacketed get a final tumbling and some paste wax to protect them if they are to be kept any length of time.
Jay

[Willbird]

Jay. are you sure modern priming mixtures contain crushed glass ?? I heard of some of the early early compounds using it, and terrible bore wear was the result.

[Kenny Wasserburger]

I do not lube my patches, so far accuracy shows no need for it, but I only shoot BP also.

KW
The Lunger

[bcp477]

Copper on steel has a slightly higher coefficient of friction than does paper on steel. Slightly higher. Of course, this does not necessarily take into account any particular bleaching agents added to paper....like Kaolin (which is abrasive). But, on the "better safe than sorry" principle, I lube my patches. Lee Liquid Alox, cut about 50/ 50, with turpentine. Nothing special about the turpentine.....mineral spirits works just as well. The diluted LLA waterproofs the patch,yet only penetrates the first layer of paper....so it can't stick the paper to the bullet. The LLA also serves to lube the patch, when put through a die to final-size the wrapped bullet.


I've shot these both unlubed and lubed (as noted above)..... and found no difference. So, I'll stick with the lube - it works, or at least causes no harm, so I see no need to change it.

[HammerMTB]

I've shot these both unlubed and lubed (as noted above)..... and found no difference. So, I'll stick with the lube - it works, or at least causes no harm, so I see no need to change it.

Question: How do you apply the LLA?

And, did you use a chrono to measure the difference in the lubed and unlubed boos? I am about to undertake a similar experiment. Wondered your results, and how you quantified no difference.

[docone31]

I only use wax to lubricate to size.
I have also done patches dry with excellent results.

[yondering]

Here's an experiment for those of you who use LLA on paper patch boolits:
-smear a little on your paper patch boolit before you size it down to final diameter
-notice the effort required to size it, and whether it goes through the die smoothly
-Compare this to sizing a dry patched boolit, and one lubed with case sizing wax.

I found that the LLA "lubricated" boolit was harder to size than plain dry paper, and much harder to size than one lubed with sizing wax. I think this is some indication of what it's doing in the bore. This leads me to believe that LLA is not a good lube for paper patching, if a lube is needed or wanted.

A little case sizing wax will give you all the waterproofing you might need in a normal situation. If you want more, try dipping the tip of the loaded round in hot wax, just up to the case mouth. This will leave most of the paper patch alone, and only coat the exposed part. (You can use the same method to waterproof matches.)

[Digital Dan]

Some fellas I know shooting slug guns don't lube the patches. Some use cross patches and some use chase patches. Most use freezer paper. They ALL lube the bore with an oiled patch after dropping the charge though...to the best of my recollection. Reason being, they cannot seat the bullet otherwise without damaging the patch. Not sure if this is relevant to the discussion or not, just tossing it in.

[303Guy]

Copper on steel has a slightly higher coefficient of friction than does paper on steel.This is significant. Add in the dact that paper is porous and can therefore hold lube, there is a good chance that lubed patches are better if lubed properly. Not to say dry patches are detrimental or inferior in any way, just that lubing won't do any harm and may be beneficial. With all the playing around that I do I have found the lubed ones better for me. They seat into sized case neck without tearing the paper and the bores seem cleaner after firing, at least to the extent that only a cotton wool ball pushed through the bore is required before storage. (Long term storage and damp conditions still call for a protective swab of Hoppe's #9!)

[bcp477]

Question: How do you apply the LLA?

And, did you use a chrono to measure the difference in the lubed and unlubed boos? I am about to undertake a similar experiment. Wondered your results, and how you quantified no difference.


A) I apply the thinned LLA with a small (art type) paintbrush. Nothing special. I have a "bullet board" that I made for drying my patched bullets......simply a piece of masonite, with short legs attached (to elevate it above the table top)....with holes drilled at 1" x 1" spacing. As I patch each bullet, I insert it nose down into the board, to dry. After the patches are dry, I brush on the LLA. Very simple.

B) I have chrono'd only my original load.....which happened to be with the patches LUBED. I have not chrono'd the unlubed/ patched bullets. By "no difference" I meant no discernable difference in accuracy....not velocity. I don't consider (the velocity question) terribly important myself, as I get what I need from the lubed/ patched bullets.

As for substituting case sizing wax (or anything else) for the LLA...... I have no doubts that there may well be a "better" lube than the LLA. However, the thinned LLA works for me, seems to cause no problems and is cheap (and I have alot of it already on hand). So, in other words..... it ain't broke, so I have no need to fix it. Perhaps I'll try something else (like case sizing wax) when my supply of LLA is gone.

[Gellot Wilde]

Lately I've been giving my patched boolits a light spray with Hornady Quick Lube, the aerosol case sizing lubricant. It's dry to the touch in a fairly short time, so won't be prone to picking up dirt etc., but I really have no clue whether or not it has any other benefit to the shooting qualities. I too had read that PP boolits tend to be more abrasive to the bore than GG, so that's why I started lubing mine.....I used to rub a smear of SPG onto them before switching to the Quick Lube.


That post caught my attention.

I've also tried Hornady case lube, but it was called 'One Shot'. I started by just spraying it on but didn't like the effect it had on the patch. I then tried using it instead of water for moistening the patch and then tried it mixed with water.

It worked fine, but I can't honestly say if it makes a noticeable difference. They shoot just the same, the patch comes off no problem at all and that's about it really.

I'm still mixing it into the water which I moisten the patch with so I must believe it's doing something. :???:

[Skipper]

I've used Rooster Jacket cut 50% for years. Works great

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010286646/rooster-jacket-waterproof-bullet-film-lube-and-paper-patch-lube-16-oz

[BPCR Bill]

Someone suggested that without lube, paper is somewhat abrasive. Maybe. Maybe the lube reduces friction. The only way to find out would be for someone with a chrono to do some tests. It has already been demonstrated that a patched boolit has less drag in the bore than grease grooved cast.

I like the idea of leaving a lube coating in the bore for corrosion protection.

I do some paper patch with Black Powder Cartridge. After much research, I found the reason that most folks stick with onion skin paper (either #8 or #9). Most papers that folks write on such as tablet paper, or printer paper, is manufactured with gypsum, and that is very abrasive, and the thickness can vary widely. With BP cartridge, we use a lube wad under the boolit to keep fouling soft. The onion skin paper is much more consistent in thickness and you can wrap the projectile the same every time and get the same bore diameter. Some folks use Rooster lube to keep the patches on and add a lubricant, but for the most part, that is not a requirement. I apply patches damp, wetting them in a small sponge that is resting in a plastic jar lid. I have a box of 100 45 caliber 550 grain boolits that I patched several years ago, and the onion skin paper is still tight and firm, ready to be loaded. I do know a few fellows that shoot smokeless ammunition in some of the older chamberings such as 40-65, and they don't use a lube at all.

[country gent]

I lightly wipe my BP PP bullets with JoJoba oil. a very light coat from fingers and thunbs I do 4-6 bullets depending on caliber then remove excess with a cleaning patch. The patch dosnt look oily just has a sheen to it. This seals the paper and provides a lubricant. I think this light coat also toughens the paper some. Patches shed at the muzzle the outer layer in confetti and the base under wrap intact showing rifling marks. I patch for 40 cal (1) and 45 cal (3) currently. I use the Seth Cole 55W paper to wrap or onion paper from buffalo arms. I have also tried tracing paper from wallmarts and business max. the helix from business max was 25% and 100% cotton rag paper. I have also used Lee sizing die wax thinned 4 parts water to 1 part lee sizing die wax. With this I dampen the patch and wrap then let dry. This mix works well also and dosnt seem to make the patch stick to the bullet.

[Dan Cash]

I paper patch for .30-40 and have used lubricated patches but now use only non lubricated patches. The lubricated patch on bullets, when left loaded for an extended period, sticks to the case neck and tears off when fired. Accuracy is deplorable. Un lubricated patches do not stick and ammo loaded with them last year shoots the same as ammo loaded last night.

[rfd]

i build .45-70 and .40-65 cartridges for target work. lubing the paper would only create issues whereas dry begets confetti out the muzzle on every shot. if i need paper protection of sorts whilst afield, a bit of beeswax lightly rubbed on top of the already built ppb as it sits in the case should do the trick.

[Rattus58]

Can anyone tell me if they've tried a lanolin/alcohol (case lube) for a patch lube?

Thank you :D

[Don McDowell]

Yes I have, not as bad as using bullet lube, but not good either.
I like the jojoba oil wiped on the exposed portion of the patch, much as Country Gent's process laid out above, and also taken from the 1875 Remington catalog, only they suggested spermicitti or sperm oil.

[arclight]

I use a light wipe of Lee Alox after the patch is applied and dry. This seems to add a bit of waterproofing and eases the loading process. I don't think it's required.

The slightly-abrasive nature of some paper can work to your advantage if you want to clean up a dark, rough BP bore that was neglected for 50 years.

Arclight

[longrange2]

Well I use Phone Book pages , wrap wet with 20 to 1 cutting oil dash or detergent for surface tension water dries out leaving trace of oil. Works for Me. Vic

[2bizzy]

I gave PP a try a few years back with smokeless as BP is hard to find in these parts and if you can, it is only Goex. All the prep when well...the casting, cutting the patches and getting them on the boolit properly but my first trouble was with seating. The boolit would be pealed out of the patch when seating. (really annoying) I tried Rooster lube but same problem, I would loose about half pealing off the jackets when seating. Results were not good as well. Four inch groups at 100yrds with some being keyholes. These were all wrapped to slightly under groove dia. I never solved this and moved on to a GG money and all is well. I would like to shoot black if I can locate a reliable source of suitable BP. My preference would be patch to bore to capitalise on more room for powder but my previous experiance with PP has given me some pause to make a good choice.

[BrentD]

I have been getting pretty good results with un-lubricated paper patched bullets. Other than water proofing is there anything to be gained with some type of lubricant?

the answers is absolutely no. You actually answered your own question -you have been getting pretty good results without it.

Most people seem determined to make paper patching far more complicated than it is. The complications are not only unnecessary, they are often down right counterproductive.

Keep it simple and you will hang on to those "pretty good results" and have more fun too.

[rfd]

I gave PP a try a few years back with smokeless as BP is hard to find in these parts and if you can, it is only Goex. All the prep when well...the casting, cutting the patches and getting them on the boolit properly but my first trouble was with seating. The boolit would be pealed out of the patch when seating. (really annoying) I tried Rooster lube but same problem, I would loose about half pealing off the jackets when seating. Results were not good as well. Four inch groups at 100yrds with some being keyholes. These were all wrapped to slightly under groove dia. I never solved this and moved on to a GG money and all is well. I would like to shoot black if I can locate a reliable source of suitable BP. My preference would be patch to bore to capitalise on more room for powder but my previous experiance with PP has given me some pause to make a good choice.

i think that a proper and most effective ppb cartridge requires bp and not smokeless. with bp, the case will either be fire formed or expanded so that the ppb will push/drop in on top of the bp and its wad, and the powder column/wad sets the cartridge OAL. you can't do that with smokeless because yer not gonna fill the case, you will need to crimp in the ppb, and that's gonna mean some mighty tight tolerances and prolly some resulting issues. add to that having a ppb that's either a tad under bore or exactly at bore diameter for best results. if you only have goex bp, that's no big handicap and i'd expect your results will be far better.

ppb cartridges aren't for everyone mostly because there are more bad ppb cartridge loading components and processes than good ones. for a newbie to ppb loads, randy wright's book is the best - just bypass all the pages about lube cookies and get down to a ppb load with a single wad. the matter of bullet diameter and patch paper thickness is a critical issue, but one that can be overcome if addressed correctly. once a ppb diameter (using a DRY patch) is achieved for a proper rifling fit, the rest is fairly straight forward. lots to consider. no way i'll ever go back to greasers. ymmv, and if it ain't fun, don't do it.

[country gent]

One thing to lubing the paper patch bullets is not to saturate the paper completely, if it starts looking translucent you have to much lube. Same when wet patching if the patch is saturated then it stretches and is even. You just want a light sheen on the bullet after lubing or waxing. When wet patching the strip set on a wet sponge will curl up then un curl and its ready to wrap. If I'm wet patching then I set 3-4 patches on a wet sponge in a small bowl of water ( or what I'm using to wet with) when the first one uncurls I place it on the patch board and lay a new patch on the sponge. wrap and take the next patch in sequence. A lot lubing their patches are using to much lube.

Another consideration is the fillers and composition of the paper. The old standard was 25% cotton rag paper as it was tough and thin with few clay or other fillers. Onion paper and drafting papers are the same. The clays and fillers seal the paper from moisture give a shiny appearance and clays can be abrasive. The clays also help with printers a s the ink dost flow and seep as much giving crisper printing.

[Butterbean]

The paper patch sticking to the case is something I have not thought of. What gave you the idea it was sticking? I lubed some 260 grain bullets for a 35 Whelen with straight LLA, sized them, then loaded them. Will the LLA stick to the case necks?

[rfd]

I do believe the concept of wetting PPB patch paper has to do with fit and is not any manner of lube. The "lube" for a PPB is the paper itself. Paper that's dry will be stronger than paper that's initially wet or oiled. The wetted paper needs to thoroughly dry, else it won't be a viable patch "lube" for the trip 'n' strip down the tube. Making the paper water resistant is a different function that should only be on the outside of the paper and saturate it. I do this by rubbing on beeswax after the PPB is seated and cartridge is fully built.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XT9Cekqb_M

[Bent Ramrod]

The paper patch boolits can indeed stick in the case. When the kick of rapidly expanding gases plus the aerosol of solid combustion products from the powder ignition hits the rear end of the boolit, it “slugs” or “rivets” it up to fill whatever empty space is around it. This is why you find the full-depth rifling marks on a previously bore-diameter boolit: the boolit has been expanded by the impact of the fast-moving solid particles to the groove diameter of the barrel. All very necessary for accurate shooting. The particles slow down to form the rolling cloud of smoke after exiting the barrel, but the initial impulse is very quick and violent.

But the boolit also expands to fit the inside of the shell mouth on the way into the barrel, and here there may be trouble. I clean my cases with the Maurer chips and solution, four hours in a Thumbler’s tumbler, and they look clean to me. But maybe the insides of the cases need further polishing or brushing. Whatever the reason, that paper can grip the inside of the cases as the boolit slugs up, and drag or stretch the brass as the boolit goes down the leade and into the rifling. This situation is aggravated by moisture in the chamber to the extent that the shell might stretch to the point where it shows rifling marks on the outside of the mouth, or even be pulled in half. More often, there is an annoying tendency of the case mouths to lengthen and need trimming after every firing. Even slightly overlong shells will crimp or pinch the boolit, maybe damaging the patch; certainly interfering with bullet pull.

Frank Mayer mentioned rubbing graphite on the patched boolits before inserting them into the shells. He never said why, but I’ve started dusting the wad and inside of the case mouths with a mixture of Midway Mica and Imperial Graphite before seating the boolits, and this reduces (but doesn’t entirely eliminate) the case lengthening.

It doesn’t happen with grease groove boolits, and many people report that they never see it happen with their paper-patch loads, but it does happen to me. The longer and straighter the shell, the worse the tendency. As mentioned, maybe they do something extra to the inside case mouths, or maybe their chambers are configured differently. Maybe that wipe-on, dry-on-hard car wax might help, applied to the inside of the shells. My few experiments with lubricating the patches themselves with liquids were not successful; I got leading and inaccuracy. I don’t have a borescope, but if the unlubed paper is wearing away the bores of my rifles, it isn’t showing up by either visual inspection or groups on targets.

[rfd]

All of this cartridge building entails a bit of "experiment of one", and one needs to see what works best for one, as always. Wet or dry patches for slicks? Try both, see what works best for it all (the cartridge, the gun, you - and numero uno is consistent accuracy).

After some years of messing around with .45-70 PPB cartridge build processes and their components, I use a BACO JIM444530E cast at 1:16 alloy, wrapped in Seth Cole 7#, the cleaned inside and out just fired and not sized Starline brass (new brass is reformed to fit the custom DT/BD PPB chamber - standard .45-70 brass will not fit) that's initially had it's flash hole reamed is drop filled with 80.5 grains of digitally weighed Swiss 1-1/2F for case compaction, a .060" LDPE wad on top, lightly .060" compressed (on the die press, for consistency).

The dry wrapped PPB slips .1" into the case mouth, on top of the LDPE wad, and is loose enuf to wiggle around and fall out. It goes onto the press and a modified Lyman .45-70 taper die just barely squeezes the case mouth to barely hold in the PPB when the cartridge is held upside down by its head - the PPB is loose enuf to twist around, be removed, be twisted back on and still not fall out.

Upon firing, bullets shed their paper like confetti and punch clean holes in all paper targets from 200 yards to waaay out there. I don't see any way that the dry paper would travel downrange with the slick. I have never been able to recover a fired slick, but I'd like to, and will work on doing that next year. I have experimented with lightly rubbing the paper of a finished cartridge for water resistance during precipitation days at the range and it seems to work without hindering accuracy. ALL fired brass is annealed before reloading, always. To me, that is an important step. In fact, all new brass is annealed before reforming to my .45-70 PPB chamber.

Part of my just-fired case preparation is to check each one for growth. I have and use a dedicated Wilson micrometer trimmer and it might take 8 to 10 firings before an estimated .0001" needs removing. I'm WAY more interested in case interior cleaning than its exterior and the only cleaning device that does that inside of 30 minutes is an ultra-sonic, using Hornady brass cleaning solution. Part of all of this is how cases are handled immediately after firing. I always want to mitigate BP residue from Everything ASAP. YMMV.

[oldbear1950]

I have a 45-70 H & R SHIKARI single shot rifle, wanted to try paper patched bullets, and lengthen the chamber for long bullets, what is the first thing I need to do?

[oldbear1950]

I will keep pressures low, like a trapdoor load

[BrentD]

I have a 45-70 H & R SHIKARI single shot rifle, wanted to try paper patched bullets, and lengthen the chamber for long bullets, what is the first thing I need to do?

1. Buy paper 8 or 9 lb airmail or tracing paper is best. Some cotton content usually helps, but no need for 100% cotton.
2. Measure your bore's land diameter
3. Buy a mould that will match your bore and paper to produce a bullet that is land diameter when patched, or 1-2 thousandths of an inch over (in which case you may need to size)
4. DO NOT lengthen your chamber. Do not touch it.
5. Load 80-86 gr of Swiss powder
6. Compress with a 0.06" LDPE wad just enough to give you 0.1" of case space
7. Seat bullet by hand
8. Crimp just barely and if necessary to make the cartridge easy to handle.
9. Shoot

I realize I missed the primer seating step, but you got that... ;)

Easy as pie.

[oldbear1950]

I have a question, for you paper patched loading guys, do you cast your own bullets, or buy them? I want to try and load paper patched bullets, and fire them in my H & R SHIKARI RIFLE

[oldbear1950]

Do any of you load 45-70 paper patched bullets? Do you buy or cast them? How do you size them? I do have a 45-70 sizer, but is not a smaller than normal sizer

[oldbear1950]

I bought some paper, cotton paper, recommended by the midway usa guy as he was paper patching some bullets. Is that swiss powder easy to get. And I realize you are talking about black powder, right?

[BrentD]

Do any of you load 45-70 paper patched bullets? Do you buy or cast them? How do you size them? I do have a 45-70 sizer, but is not a smaller than normal sizer

You can size paper patched bullets with the paper on. Thus, you want a sizer that is an exact match for your bore diameter. Better yet, is buy a mold that is just the right size and don't size them at all (see steps 1-3, above)

[oldbear1950]

what is the LDPE WAD?

[oldbear1950]

so i could size the bore with a micrometer or what to determine bore diameter? I do realize a chamber cast won't work

[BrentD]

what is the LDPE WAD?

LDPE is low density polyethylene plastic. John Walter's wads at buffaloarms.com will do nicely. They will also sell the powder and molds. One stop shopping.

[oldbear1950]

what is a BACO mold?

[BrentD]

so i could size the bore with a micrometer or what to determine bore diameter? I do realize a chamber cast won't work


Not sure why a chamber cast won't work but I like to take a larger muzzleloading roundball and tap it into the muzzle about 1/2 way and then pop it back out.

[BrentD]

what is a BACO mold?

Buffaloarms.com
Buffalo Arms Company = BACO

[oldbear1950]

what about brass? can I use standard brass or do I need to order special brass

[BrentD]

what about brass? can I use standard brass or do I need to order special brass

Don't make this hard. Any decent brass will be fine. Winchester and Starline are most common. Others are fine too.

[BrentD]

One thing I passed over that is easily missed is to pick a mold that not only will fit with your barrel's diameter but is also a good match between your barrel's twist rate and the intended application. It is easy to buy a target bullet that is much too long. I know nothing about the twist rate of your rifle. Either measure it directly or contact the manufacturer and find out.

[Shanghai Jack]

Couple of videos on the Martini forums showing the dipping their paper patch bullets in some time of lubricant immediately before loading.

[BrentD]

Couple of videos on the Martini forums showing the dipping their paper patch bullets in some time of lubricant immediately before loading.


There may be videos, but they aren't what you want to do - at least to start. Exactly what are your shooting goals with this? But meanwhile, you have plenty of info here to get more than just halfway down the road.

[Shanghai Jack]

There may be videos, but they aren't what you want to do - at least to start. Exactly what are your shooting goals with this? But meanwhile, you have plenty of info here to get more than just halfway down the road.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoOSe3PiD1I @13:58 inter alia

General interest paper patching

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtYQslXdTrs&t=57s

[BrentD]

@200 yd
https://i.imgur.com/fJvHvsy.jpg

[Shanghai Jack]

Nice looking rifle

[BrentD]

Nice looking rifle


thanks, but a better looking group. That is 200 yds with ten shots vs the video's 100 meter and however many shots. BAsically, his groups are 400% the size of mine, correcting for distance. What do you want to do? Shoot highest possible precision or be period correct for Martini 577-450s? Those Martinis are nothing like a modern rifle. Mine tapered 20 thousandths from breech to muzzle. It's a very different ballgame for mil-spec accuracy (i.e., not very).

[FrankJD]

Fantastic shooting, Brent!