Rednecking a power cannalure tool

[BT Sniper]

Got the hand opperated Corrbin canalure tool and I am having a tough time imagining turning that small handel at minimum 3 times per bullet. I tend to make a lot of bullets and of course want to figure out a way to improve the design.

So my soon to be project of the many open I have all ready is to figure out the best way to add elc. power to the operation. I'm thinking a varriable speed drill on a mount attached to the cannalure tool some how. Then either work it with the drill trigger or some how attach the elc. to a foot petel from a sewing machine.

Any thoughts on the idea? I'll make it work some how as it seems is the case with most my shop tools.

BT

[elk hunter]

Brian;

You will need a universal motor, i.e. one that uses brushes on a commutator in order to use a rheostat to control speed. You were right when you were thinking of using a drill motor or something of that type. A sewing machine rheostat may not be heavy duty enough. You better look at the ampere draw of you motor and the rheostat before you try it. Once you let the smoke out of those things it's hard to put it back.

Good luck with your project.

[ANeat]

Have you seen this one? http://people.aapt.net.au/~nelltash5/bullet%20factory%2002/cannelure%20machine.wmv

[smilin-buddha]

I have so much to learn,

[badgeredd]

Have you seen this one? http://people.aapt.net.au/~nelltash5/bullet%20factory%2002/cannelure%20machine.wmv

COOOOOL. Goes to show ingenuity is not dead after all.

Edd

[Southern Son]

ANeat, that is brilliant.

BT, how "redneck" are you willing to go? I know that I got sick of cranking the handle on my case trimmer, so I knocked the handle off and took the shaft to a guy with a lathe. He turned a short stub on the end of the shaft that I fixed my re-chargable drill to. Looks rough, but works a treat.

[ANeat]

Sorry, not mine. That is from the bullet factory in Australia. They have a lot of cool stuff.

I would love to do something similar...


http://people.aapt.net.au/~nelltash5/bullet%20factory%2002/index.htm

[BT Sniper]

Southern Son,

My thoughts exacty! I will still research the other great addvise. When it comes to power and elc. I do not know much more then the capibilites of a light switch.

This must make me pretty red :redneck:

Got Pics?

BT

p.s. I did the same thing to my RCBS case trimmer.

[Southern Son]

B.T., mate, I am in the same boat as you when it comes to electricity. My case trimmer was just the Lyman hand cranked model. I took the shafft to a machine shop and they cut a 3/4 inch long section about 1/4 inch round at the opposite end to the cutter. I did "Redneck" my old rechargeable drill a little. It was a 12 volt but the batteries were stuffed. I ended up cutting the handle off, filling in the hole in the side with some putty, gluing the trigger on the side of the drill housing and then running two wires to a deep cycle car battery that I use for my electric motor on my boat. I would post photos of it, but where I am living at the moment does not have a shed and everything that I used to keep in my shed is locked away in storage.

[BT Sniper]

Well I just finished my first 150 bullets with the hand crank corbin tool and not sure I'm ready for 150 more with it. Granted I think I may be asking a bit much from it with a wheel weight alloy core but "there has got to be a better way."

So how about some design coments from the one pictured in the video? It looks as though it can be adjusted for any size bullet? The depth of the crimp groove is all ready set in the design of the turning wheel and may actually prevent the bullet from increasing in diameter but not length? What kind of motor?

I am allready experiencing stress with the corbin hand design and it turning out oversized bullets (again could be all my doing), other then appling the crimp to the jacket after the core seating stage what other options is there?

I'm ready to build on of these power cannalure tools for 44 cal bullets, any ideas as to where to start.

Thanks

BT

[jcunclejoe]

I used the CH4D hand cannelure tool (after rebuilding it to be consistent) for a couple of thousand DOUBLE cannelured bullets. Then I spent the money for a Corbin power cannelure tool. (about $800)
It paid for itself on the first bullet. No more blisters or sore hands.
But then I sell bullets so it is worth it for production purposes.
Joe

[ANeat]

Ive been working on one like in the video. It looks like a version of the one that Corbin sells. The hard part for me at least would be tracking down a suitable motor so Ive been using my Bridgeport to drive it right now.

My original intent was to be putting lube grooves in swaged lead bullets but my first version does a better job putting cannelures in.


As for the design; the rotating wheel need to be big enough so that you get at least one revolution around the bullet.
Once you settle on that the outer/stationary part needs to be the correct size to get the right "squeeze"


One thing I noticed on mine is you cannot just run a lead bullet thru there and expect a lube groove. It also mashes down the OD of the bullet, reducing the OD by a couple thou.

I was trying 45 bullets so I ran a few230fmj thru there and they turned out great..

I think to do lube grooves I will need a mating groove in the stationalry part as well.

Still working on that

[BT Sniper]

What does it take to switch calibers with the power version. Is it a simple adjust of the stationary part or does it take a new part all together?

[ANeat]

Looks like Corbin varies the size of the drive wheel and adjusts the stationary part.

Here is the instructions.

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/corbin_pcm-1.pdf

[BT Sniper]

Kind of what I thought too. Every caliber needs a different size wheel = more $$

Does it have to be like that or could you use same size wheel?

[ANeat]

You need a consistent gap between the driven wheel and the stationary wheel on a setup like that.

The same wheel couldnt be used on say a 45 bullet and a 22 bullet, you would have one tight spot instead of a consistent gap

[BT Sniper]

I suppose you would just need to change out the stationary ramp for different calibers and could use the same wheel.

[BT Sniper]

Joe,

How many bullets per minute can you do one one of those machines? I know corbin says 30 but just curious as to your real world experience. Do you have the 44 cal wheel?

[jcunclejoe]

I bet you could do 40-50 bullets a minute. It works really nice. An exit chute would be really helpful and if someone wanted to get really fancy and automatic feeder.

I would also imagine that a backplate / anvil / solid backpiece in the shape of a parabola on a linear slide could be used with a constant size wheel. You would just have to slide it to get the correct distance for as much circular angle as possible.
Trial and error or a CAD program could determine a repeatable place to mark per bullet diameter.

I only have the wheel and or backplate for 41 caliber.

Merry Christmas.
Joe

[ANeat]

Here is my first half arsed attempt. I was looking to make a lube groove but that didnt work too well. Makes a nice cannelure though.

Kind of a spinoff of the Corbin, If I track down a nice gear motor Ill use that.

I have the fixture mounted in my milling machine for now. I can run the RPM real slow if needed. The rotating part is actually a 3/4 bolt turned down.

http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=153&pictureid=1703

Kind of mashes down the OD of a lead bullet.

http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=153&pictureid=1704


Here are a couple jacketed 45 bullets, a 230rn and a Nosler 185 that I cannelured.

http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=153&pictureid=1705

[BT Sniper]

SWEET!!!!!!!

Did not think of using the mill. Of course I don't have one but friend does. May just try and make somthing like this.

[Dannix]

How might the idea be tweaked though for long, boattailed bullets?

This thread is getting sticked for future reference. :mrgreen:

[BT Sniper]

Corbin's sight shows a cradle used for such bullets. looks like a couple small metal support posts on each side of the bullet.

[ANeat]

Here is Corbins stuff that BT mentioned.
Plus another one they do.
http://www.swagedies.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/pcm-f.jpg

http://www.swagedies.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/pcm-fc.jpg

[Chicken Thief]

Ive been working on one like in the video. It looks like a version of the one that Corbin sells. The hard part for me at least would be tracking down a suitable motor so Ive been using my Bridgeport to drive it right now.

A wiper motor would give the right speed and power without alterations.

[ANeat]

Yea CT, I considered that, Im using a wiper motor on a target turner I made. My only concern would be the bearings on the shaft and if they would hold up.

There is a pretty good axial load on the shaft as the bullet rolls thru there

Something else I considered is making something with its own bearing support and have it driven by a toothed belt.

Then the motor bearings wouldnt be a concern

[Willbird]

I wonder if the motor from an electric can opener would work ?? They seem to be geared down somehow to run pretty slow.

[dominicfortune00]

The motor in the video reminds me of an angle grinder due to the sound.

Probably need to slow the speed down with some sort of rheostat as most angle grinders turn a couple of thousand rpm's; or else rig up a reducing gear ratio.

[Bullet Head]

Here is my first half arsed attempt. I was looking to make a lube groove but that didnt work too well. Makes a nice cannelure though.

Kind of a spinoff of the Corbin, If I track down a nice gear motor Ill use that.

I have the fixture mounted in my milling machine for now. I can run the RPM real slow if needed. The rotating part is actually a 3/4 bolt turned down.

http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=153&pictureid=1703





Looks great. How did you make the wheel with the cannalure groves on it?

[ANeat]

BH that started out as a 3/4 Allen head bolt that had the serrations in it. I just turned off the part I didnt need.

[oldtoolsniper]

I just tore into an electric can opener. I am not sure how much pressure it takes to put the groove into the bullet.

I was thinking along the lines of a spring set of rollers that would move out before the pressure could swage the bullet.

My other thought was roller blade wheels and or skate board wheels. I would lean towards the roller blades since they are only 3-4 bucks a pair at the thrift store and they already have bearings and bolts or socket head screws machined to fit the bearings. Would the rubber flex enough to prevent swaging? If so then using a lever device like a can opener which comes with a toothed wheel might work.