Lyman 356637 Devastator tips and tricks

[Hogokansatsukan]

I got so much info here, I thought I would try and return the favor.
I purchased a Lyman 356637 HP mold, they call it the Devastator. I've cast over 1000 of these little guys over the past few nights, and this is what I have learned about this mold.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186347.jpg

The melt and mold need to be hot. I'm mean hot. Being that it is a single cavity, you need to cast fast to keep it hot as well.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186348.jpg

My melt was 8 pounds WW, two pounds pure pb, and 2 ounces of tin.
I cast from a cast iron pot and use a Lyman ladle. They came out 132 grains and .357 with this alloy.

The pin needs to be hot, or the tip of the boolit will not fill out nicely.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186349.jpg

Pouring too fast into the mold can result in some flashing around the pin when the melt and mold are HOT. A good slow pour seems to fix this. Since I cast over a propane flame, and don't have a thermometer, I can't tell you the ideal temp. I guess it would be when the tip is filled out and there is no flashing. The sprue would solidify in about two to three seconds no matter how hot I got the melt or mold, or how hot I thought I got the mold. Holding the mold handles tighter had no effect on the flashing around the pin. Pouring slower got rid of it.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186350.jpg

I've got quite a nice pile now to test out with different loads.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186351.jpg

Other things I learned.
It doesn't matter how big your pot or ladle, if you don't put the pin in the mold, you will never get a boolit. Yep. Felt pretty stupid.

[mannyCA]

excellent tutorial and tips, i've been thinking of getting into th hollowpoints but just haven't had a chance.
manny:razz:

[nighthunter]

Thanks for the write up. Good tips and info. We can all learn something from each other. I wonder if some of the flashing you experienced could have been from the addition of the tin into your alloy. My experience with tin is that it helps with mold fill out and gets the alloy into all the nooks and cranies so to speak. Usually I cut back on the tin when I start getting finning. That is when the alloy starts filling the vent lines in the mold. Alloy temperature can also effect this as well as mold temperature. How long have you been casting and do you cast any other bullets? Oh yea ..... welcome to the forum and hope to hear more from you.

Nighthunter

[yondering]

Have you had any trouble with voids inside the hollow point cavity?

[Hogokansatsukan]

I've been casting for a year now, reloading for 20+. I have 4 Lee molds for the .44, one for the .45, 2 for the .38/.357, two for .454 bp, one for the .308, and a slug and .69 round ball mold. I've cast about 350 pounds of lead this year alone. This was my first try at HP molds and my first Lyman. Was also the first time that I added tin to the mix. I typically go with straight WW and drop quench. Was pan lubing with Alox, but the wife threatened to kill me if I continued as the smell of it is pretty offensive to her. Looks like an RCBS Lubamatic is in my future.
I didn't have any voids in the cavity of the HP. I did preheat the pin by keeping it in the melt for about 15 seconds before starting the casting session. Keeping that pin hot is very important in getting the tips to turn out nicely. I'll try the next batch with half the tin and see how that works out.

[Hogokansatsukan]

Got to test the loads today. Fired a total of 64 sized to .356 and 64 as cast.
As cast went 1150 over the chrono and sized were 1115. Accuracy was very good with the sized. Nice tight groups and easily hit 2 liter soda bottles at 25 yards.
These are a few of the recovered rounds from the burm. Will have to test in a more "fleshy" media later (soaked phone books).
There was no leadeing at all in the barrel of the M9 with my home made lube (1lb beeswax, 1 lb Crisco, 4 ounces canola oil, 2 ounces lanolin, and 4 ounces parafin wax).
The grid in the background are 1/2 inch squares.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC196353.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC196355.jpg