Hogokansatsukan
12-18-2009, 11:40 AM
I got so much info here, I thought I would try and return the favor.
I purchased a Lyman 356637 HP mold, they call it the Devastator. I've cast over 1000 of these little guys over the past few nights, and this is what I have learned about this mold.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186347.jpg
The melt and mold need to be hot. I'm mean hot. Being that it is a single cavity, you need to cast fast to keep it hot as well.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186348.jpg
My melt was 8 pounds WW, two pounds pure pb, and 2 ounces of tin.
I cast from a cast iron pot and use a Lyman ladle. They came out 132 grains and .357 with this alloy.
The pin needs to be hot, or the tip of the boolit will not fill out nicely.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186349.jpg
Pouring too fast into the mold can result in some flashing around the pin when the melt and mold are HOT. A good slow pour seems to fix this. Since I cast over a propane flame, and don't have a thermometer, I can't tell you the ideal temp. I guess it would be when the tip is filled out and there is no flashing. The sprue would solidify in about two to three seconds no matter how hot I got the melt or mold, or how hot I thought I got the mold. Holding the mold handles tighter had no effect on the flashing around the pin. Pouring slower got rid of it.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186350.jpg
I've got quite a nice pile now to test out with different loads.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186351.jpg
Other things I learned.
It doesn't matter how big your pot or ladle, if you don't put the pin in the mold, you will never get a boolit. Yep. Felt pretty stupid.
I purchased a Lyman 356637 HP mold, they call it the Devastator. I've cast over 1000 of these little guys over the past few nights, and this is what I have learned about this mold.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186347.jpg
The melt and mold need to be hot. I'm mean hot. Being that it is a single cavity, you need to cast fast to keep it hot as well.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186348.jpg
My melt was 8 pounds WW, two pounds pure pb, and 2 ounces of tin.
I cast from a cast iron pot and use a Lyman ladle. They came out 132 grains and .357 with this alloy.
The pin needs to be hot, or the tip of the boolit will not fill out nicely.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186349.jpg
Pouring too fast into the mold can result in some flashing around the pin when the melt and mold are HOT. A good slow pour seems to fix this. Since I cast over a propane flame, and don't have a thermometer, I can't tell you the ideal temp. I guess it would be when the tip is filled out and there is no flashing. The sprue would solidify in about two to three seconds no matter how hot I got the melt or mold, or how hot I thought I got the mold. Holding the mold handles tighter had no effect on the flashing around the pin. Pouring slower got rid of it.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186350.jpg
I've got quite a nice pile now to test out with different loads.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m182/hogokansatsukan/PC186351.jpg
Other things I learned.
It doesn't matter how big your pot or ladle, if you don't put the pin in the mold, you will never get a boolit. Yep. Felt pretty stupid.