Lee powder disc hopper repair/upgrade

[rwt101]

I have a Lee powder disc measure that the screws stripped out of the powder hopper. A new hopper is only $2.00 plus $4.00 shipping. So no big deal, but it will probably do it again. So I decided to repair it and upgrade it at the same time.

I went and got 2 6x32x1/12 screws ans 2 brass thumb nuts. I cut the heads off the screws and used Gorilla glue (very small amount) on the threads and screwed them into the hopper leaving enough out so the nut will go on. I needed 2 spacers to go on the screw, so I used 22lr brass cut to length.

Now I have the same setup as the pro disc hopper. It should last a lot longer. This might have been done before, but I just thought I would post it.

Bob T

[Just Call Me...G]

That, sir, is pretty dang ingenious!

:smile:

I have had the same set-up for the last 10 years and I go through about a hopper a year...last time I needed parts/pieces for my Lee stuff I ordered 2 extra hoppers.

I know EXACTLY what I am going to do this weekend with my existing hopper AND the two spares! LOL...let's see I'm 44 now, so those should last me the rest of my lifetime and get passed on.


Keep The High Ground,


G

[tonyb]

Now you went an done it. You fixed a problem.

Good job.

[rwt101]

If you can find the screws that are 1 3/4 long it would be better. I used 1 1/2 and if they were screwed in all the way they would be too short. .
Bob T

[deltaenterprizes]

There is an upgrade that comes with a round hopper with a powder shut off, with studs and an adjustable charge bar for about $12.

[Super38]

I've been thinking of getting the new upgrade just so I don't have to use a screwdriver all the time. Plus, it's nice having a spare.

Super38

[rwt101]

There is an upgrade that comes with a round hopper with a powder shut off, with studs and an adjustable charge bar for about $12.

Didn't know about the upgrade.
Bob T

[tonyb]

There is an upgrade that comes with a round hopper with a powder shut off, with studs and an adjustable charge bar for about $12.

What I saw was $22

[Recluse]

There is an upgrade that comes with a round hopper with a powder shut off, with studs and an adjustable charge bar for about $12.

That adjustable charge bar is a piece of junk. I have a pro-disc I use for a few calibers and like it really well. It came with my old Pro1000 I bought 22 years ago.

Saw the adjustable charge bar one day and decided to order it, and try it. I got more squibs in that one loading session of around 150 rounds than I have in the past thirty years time ten. I also got more inconsistent charges, no matter the powder type, than I ever have.

I like the vast majority of Lee products and own/use a lot of their stuff. But that adjustable charge bar is in the same category as their Zip drive--pure junk.

For my hoppers, I just dabbed a gob of JB Weld around the two areas the screws go. RWT's method looks nicer and I really like the idea of thumb-screws. Gets old reaching for the phillips screwdriver all the time.

:coffee:

[GP100man]

I don`t & have never unscrewed the screws , I unhook the spring & lift the body up enuff to slip the disc out & put a different 1 in then reattach spring.

Your fix will work though , it`d be my luck the spacer would jump from my fingers & go to partsbegoneville!!!

[jcwit]

Never had any trouble with the Adjustable Charge Bar, works great for me.

[Super38]

Does anyone have or use the Lee Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure? Is the teflon coating worth the extra money? It sounds like the shut-off vavle might be.

Super38

[Super38]

Although I am new at this, I am guessing that the swivel and the riser are also greatly appreciated.

Super38

[jcwit]

If you do the up-grade it ends up the same as a Pro Auto-Disk except for the teflon coating. Yes the shutoff valve is worth it and the whole hopper up-grade is much more sturdier.

If I had it to do all over again I would buy the Pro to start with.

[rwt101]

From what I know now I would have bought the Pro also. But money was a concern from the start with me. I also don't load a lot of ammo at once. Now that I have done this it will work for me. I also have an extra hopper incase. I do use the ajustable charge bar and the discs. I am set up with the swivel and the riser.
Bob T

[jcwit]

From what I know now I would have bought the Pro also. But money was a concern from the start with me. I also don't load a lot of ammo at once. Now that I have done this it will work for me. I also have an extra hopper incase. I do use the ajustable charge bar and the discs. I am set up with the swivel and the riser.
Bob T

Right, that solution was a VERY GOOD idea, and thanks for passing it on.

[Super38]

I want to know why they don't sell the pro with the turret sets. Everything is an add-on that you need to start. Trying to use the hopper with any dies in place is almost impossible.

Is there there a place to buy Lee product other than Lee (sonce they seem to be on the higher priced side)?

Super38

[rwt101]

I want to know why they don't sell the pro with the turret sets. Everything is an add-on that you need to start. Trying to use the hopper with any dies in place is almost impossible.

Is there there a place to buy Lee product other than Lee (sonce they seem to be on the higher priced side)?

Super38

Midway-Midsouth-Graf's, just about any of the retailers have them.

Bob T

[Firebricker]

There is usually a guy with a lot of Lee equipment at Mike Hollaway gun shows when they come to K-town FB

[Super38]

LEE PRO AUTO DISK POWDER MEASURE $38.39 @ Graf's

I guess that will work.

Super38

[dromia]

I'm no Lee fan but their prodisk measure is a good piece of kit if you have a use for a fixed cavity dispenser.

I use mine to dispense 4 -5 gns of Vihtavuori N310 for indoor 25yrd rifle loads and it is very consistent.

Dropping powder with case activation seems to give better results than dropping by hand, this is true of my progressives with RCBS and Hornady adjustable measures as well as the Lee prodisk

The powder turn of facility is good so long as you remember to use it. :roll:

[sheepdog]

I had the same issue, sent it into Lee and they replaced it for free. When I suggested they make the plastic with machine screw holes they said I could buy some part. I said no thanks, I'll keep sending it back to you to fix til you listen. The customer service rep laughed and said thats fine, thats how they get around to improving something around there.

[TAWILDCATT]

there is a riser for rifle die but you should be able to use measure if you turn it about.I have several set up on turrets.
I am fixing a hopper right now I used du co cement.but I think I will do what poster said and get the screws and thumb nuts.:coffee:

[rwt101]

Lowes has the brass thumb nuts.
Bob T

[rowdy1]

Lee Pro Auto Disk @ Midsouth $35.49.

[jimkim]

I don`t & have never unscrewed the screws , I unhook the spring & lift the body up enuff to slip the disc out & put a different 1 in then reattach spring.

Your fix will work though , it`d be my luck the spacer would jump from my fingers & go to partsbegoneville!!!

Until I ordered the upgrade I had never even loosed the screws to change discs. The instructions that came with my Flintstone era Lee powder measure said to just push the next disc in until it clicked. That's how I did it for years. Then I bought a double disk kit, and it was great until I bought the upgrade kit. Now I have the adjustable charge bar. I've had good service from mine. I think accuracy with any given powder measure is more about technique than design.

[GP100man]

jimkim

Mine was a display unit yrs ago & the instructions were "missing" good thing I had good scales!!!!& patience

[rwt101]

Until I ordered the upgrade I had never even loosed the screws to change discs. The instructions that came with my Flintstone era Lee powder measure said to just push the next disc in until it clicked. That's how I did it for years. Then I bought a double disk kit, and it was great until I bought the upgrade kit. Now I have the adjustable charge bar. I've had good service from mine. I think accuracy with any given powder measure is more about technique than design.

Maybe I didn't read the instructions (surley not) right. I just made an assumpion that the hopper had to come off tp replace the disc?
Bob T

[jimkim]

Sorry, that was more of an observation than instruction. I guess my point was "dang I'm getting old".
The new instructions say to take one screw out and turn the hopper to the side. Here's a link. http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/AD2302.pdf

[DLCTEX]

I think the upgrade kit is well worth the money, and I have had great results with the adjustable charge bar. The riser is necessary using the measure on the Classic Cast Turret with the Safety prime (another great item). I have also repaired some hoppers using epoxy, now I need to find some brass nuts.

[rwt101]

I also took a fine file to the base of the hopper (very carefully) to close up the gap between it and the disc. You have to be careful not to take too much off or make it uneven.
Bob T

[Dale53]

The Lee Pro Auto Disc Powder measure is WORLD'S better than the standard disc measure in nearly every category!!

Dale53

[jcwit]

I've got the Auto Disk Measure with the Pro upgrade kit installed which makes it the same as the Pro model without the teflon coating. Is the teflon coating worth that much? Just wondering.

[gefiltephish]

...The powder turn of facility is good so long as you remember to use it. :roll:

And how do you know this? :mrgreen:

[TAWILDCATT]

I know its not right to fix but I JB my hopper and now I am going to get screws and thumb nutsbut I may JB the frame rather than the brass sleeves.I also have
some measures with the double disc risers.and they have a new riser made of plastic that is better than the alum piece.:coffee:

[twotoescharlie]

change discs the easy way. get one of the large split rings for keys, hook it on the back of the spring, remove spring, move disc foward to change, replace disc, rehook spring. I have never had the screws out of my measure, I've had it since they first came out.

TTC

[hiram]

I solved the problem the same way but kept the lee configuration. I threaded two pieces of brass 6X32. I cut a notch in the hopper where the bad thread was. I used a dremel tool. Then epoxied in the threaded inserts. JB weld used initially. Later I applied a small strip of fiberglass on inside and outside of inserts. I screwed in the screws the way they are suppose to be to keep screws allligned with the inserts. Turned the unit upside down to dry so epoxy and inserts wouldn't sag onto the base. I also placed wax paper between the hopper and base to prevent accidental adhesion.

[rwt101]

Looks good.
Bob T