Loctite for scope on a .44 Mag ?

[ghh3rd]

I will soon be mounting my Ultradot to my NMSBH .44 Mag Hunter and have several things about using Loctite to prevent screws from working loose.

Some say use it on the base screws, not the rings -- some say use in on both.

Some say not to use it at all; they say use oil because it assists the screw being tightened all of the way, thereby eliminating the need for Loctite.

All who advocate using it say only the blue Loctite should be used.

My NMSBH is a Hunter model, which means that fortunately I don't need to install a base.... I can just screw down the rings to the barrel.

Thoughts about using Loctite on my rings?

Thanks,

Randy

[Down South]

I'd use the blue loctite on the base screws after a good degreasing. I wouldn't use the Loctite on the rings but that's just my preference.

[bisleyfan41]

There is no need for LocTite anywhere in the setup. If you mount the UltraDot forward in the rings so the adjustment turret is against the front ring, this will help hold the scope in place. After mounting the scope and shooting a few rounds, check the tightness of the ring screws and tighten as necessary. I've found after that there is no loosening. As far as the rings to the barrel, same thing goes. Tighten as much as you can, after shooting check and tighten as needed.

I hunt with mine in varying conditions requiring removal and re-installation of the scope at different times of the day in the field. This is a key feature not offered on any other single action; the ability to go between irons and scope without loosing zero in the scope; LocTite defeats this feature. I use a Sacagawea dollar coin for removing and re-installing the scope and have never had any loosening problems with the limited amount of torque the dollar provides. Sometimes LocTite is a solution lookng for a problem that isn't there.

[canyon-ghost]

:coffeecom I use loctite but, there is one better alternative, even better than oil etc. I use a Wheeler Engineering Scope Lapping Kit to lap the rings straight before mounting the scope. It just consists of 1" steel rod and lapping compound. It is really surprising how much difference it makes. This is a better investment in your scopes than about anything you can do. I just use light oil to suspend the lapping compound and only tighten the rings enough so that the rod still slides. It removes the finish where need be. Then you know your scope is straight and less danger of leaving rings in it from tightening the screws. If you use loctite, do it quickly and all at once, then let it set overnight or 24 hours. It requires a heat source to remove, a soldering iron will do but, you'll find patience is best when you have to sit there and heat screws.

Ron

[S.R.Custom]

There is no need for LocTite anywhere in the setup...

Indeed. A tiny dab of silicon RTV in the rings themselves will seal against the scope body and keep the scope from moving. ;)

[12glocks]

Indeed. A tiny dab of silicon RTV in the rings themselves will seal against the scope body and keep the scope from moving. ;)

That's a nifty idea.

I use blue loctite. I can always put a little heat on it if I have to. I believe my father used to use clear finger nail polish back in the day.

[BABore]

I've never had a problem with Ruger rings loosening from the bbl. cuts on my 41 and 44 mag SBH Hunters. I don't use anything on either the base or ring screws.

My 480 SRH is a totally different animal. No problem with the scope ring screws at all. The big base screws would loosen after only a few rounds. Blue Lok-Tite did not cure the problem either. It just lasted a few rounds longer is all. I finally cured the problem with sets of small stepped washers. The outside faces of eah pair is embosed with serrations so they dig in. The inside faces have inclined steps on them. They can't loosen as the inclined steps make them get tighter. I think I bought them at McMaster-Carr.

[mike in co]

what is a nmsbh ?

as a participant in the group shoot at a winniemucccka cast booli shoot, i had the opportunity to have an object fly by me during the rapid fire handgun match. did not see what it was and it was too sloow to be a boolit. when i dumped the 6 empties and went to add 6 more loaded rounds..the scope on my gun wiggled. closer inspection reveaaled the front cross bolt had no nut holding it in place.

so to all thise claiming it is not necessary to lock tite screws on a 44 mag...well you are shooting girly loads or you have not shot enough yet..

mike in co

[mike in co]

what is a nmsbh ?

as a participant in the group shoot at a winniemucccka cast booli shoot, i had the opportunity to have an object fly by me during the rapid fire handgun match. did not see what it was and it was too sloow to be a boolit. when i dumped the 6 empties and went to add 6 more loaded rounds..the scope on my gun wiggled. closer inspection revealed the front cross bolt had no nut holding it in place.

so to all thise claiming it is not necessary to lock tite screws on a 44 mag...well you are shooting girly loads or you have not shot enough yet..

mike in co

[BABore]

what is a nmsbh ?

as a participant in the group shoot at a winniemucccka cast booli shoot, i had the opportunity to have an object fly by me during the rapid fire handgun match. did not see what it was and it was too sloow to be a boolit. when i dumped the 6 empties and went to add 6 more loaded rounds..the scope on my gun wiggled. closer inspection revealed the front cross bolt had no nut holding it in place.

so to all thise claiming it is not necessary to lock tite screws on a 44 mag...well you are shooting girly loads or you have not shot enough yet..

mike in co

I shoot max loads (and sometimes over) of WW 296 with my versions of the 429421, 434640 (280 gr) and my 434-300 (300 grs). Since I only shoot a 100 or so at an outing, maybe 6-10 times a year, and have never had to tighten them, I am not in your league. Then again, it may just be the girly-man you have tightening your screws for you is not up to the task. Be that as it may, the options are all listed here on how to correct any problem.

Based on my very limited experience, I would think that nmsbh is referring to a "New Model, Super Blackhawk".

[45 2.1]

I shoot max loads (and sometimes over) of WW 296 with my versions of the 429421, 434640 (280 gr) and my 434-300 (300 grs). Since I only shoot a 100 or so at an outing, maybe 6-10 times a year, and have never had to tighten them, I am not in your league. Then again, it may just be the girly-man you have tightening your screws for you is not up to the task. Be that as it may, the options are all listed here on how to correct any problem.

I can assure you all that he does indeed shoot MAXIMUM loads in the 44 Mag. No doubt whatsoever on that.....:mrgreen:

[StarMetal]

I only use Loc-Tite on bases. As far as gripping for the ring sealant Ross Seyfred said it best: He uses 3M Liquid Insulation...that's the stuff for coating electrical connections. He only advises it on magnums for African rifles. Said it's very hard to get the scope loose from the rings. They won't move...that's for sure.

I use to put a dab of fingernail polish at the ring/scope junction. The stuff is brittle. If your scope moved in the ring that dab will show a crack.

Joe

[44man]

Loc-Tite works on most of my bases. I do not use it on ring screws.
It did not work on my BFR .475 and even using Loc-Tite primer would not keep base screws tight. Maybe it is steel "Ring."
I glass bedded the base to the gun and epoxied the screws in. I now have a one piece gun and base. :bigsmyl2:

[BABore]

These are the washers I used on the Ruger base screws.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#washers/=4xzkls

They are the Wedge-Lok ones.

[Bucks Owin]

If you do use Loctite, use the blue stuff in a tiny amount for sure!. If you happen to use red, you will never remove that screw again without breaking it or using heat. (I'd use fingernail polish or some shellac myself)...JMO, Dennis

[bisleyfan41]

so to all thise claiming it is not necessary to lock tite screws on a 44 mag...well you are shooting girly loads or you have not shot enough yet..

Indeed it sounds like the only thing "girly" involved was whoever tightened YOUR ring screws. If the nut went flying by your head when shooting, it means it had already been loose for sometime and had finally run out of threads to hold it on. Ain't no way it went from properly tight to flying off in one session, sorry.

I bought my SBHH in '01 and have shot ~3000 rounds in those 8 years since. Most of them were warm, not heavy, loads with ZERO loosening issues.

[44man]

Screws are EASY to remove with any Loc-Tite or epoxy.
Just find a copper rod the size of the screw head and heat it red hot on the end. Hold it on the screw head a little while and the screw will come right out.

[Bass Ackward]

Wow. I guess this can really be a problem. (?)

I use the blue Loctite even on screws for factory opens. Even my opens will shake lose every now and then.

I do use a scope for load development at times, but nothing has ever moved during that process. I imagine variables like gun weight and ring type and ring location are keys in this process.

I use steel picatinny rails and Weaver Quads as far forward as possible with the blue on the bases only.

[ghh3rd]

what is a nmsbh ?
New model Super Blackhawk

[Heavy lead]

I only use loctite on bases, I also for the BFR 475 used JB Weld for the base, it won't come off. I always used to lap my rings, now I have a 1" Manson Reamers scope ring reamer and use it on all rings, it's amazing how much better rings hold and how much alignment problems there are with rings until you lap. The reamer is a quick and very nice tool to have.

[mike in co]

Indeed it sounds like the only thing "girly" involved was whoever tightened YOUR ring screws. If the nut went flying by your head when shooting, it means it had already been loose for sometime and had finally run out of threads to hold it on. Ain't no way it went from properly tight to flying off in one session, sorry.

I bought my SBHH in '01 and have shot ~3000 rounds in those 8 years since. Most of them were warm, not heavy, loads with ZERO loosening issues.

with no lock washer and only a thread distortion( torque)...it is possible for a nut to loosen.
it probably took close to a year...and with my luck came off in a fun match.

i'm glad you guys have had no failures....but just cause YOU HAVEN'T, does not mean it cannot happen.
i degrease all threads and use blue loctite.

i have recently eased up on my loads. now only shooting 300 at 1100-1200 fps...it gets the job done....large steel plates at 50 yds

[canyon-ghost]

Heavy Lead just said it again, lapping the rings is a better option. I have used red loctite and it just requires more heat to loosen, closer cleaning to remove it.

Y'all really shouldn't resort to 'girly' insults, ya know. You're grown men, for pete's sake!

[Bucks Owin]

Screws are EASY to remove with any Loc-Tite or epoxy.
Just find a copper rod the size of the screw head and heat it red hot on the end. Hold it on the screw head a little while and the screw will come right out.Hey that's a good tip! Thanks pard....Dennis

[44man]

Hey that's a good tip! Thanks pard....Dennis
I broke a few ring screws before finding out the guys glued them in.

[testhop]

#1 on nail polish

[dubber123]

+ about a million on lapping or reaming your rings. Anyone who thinks because they bought "good" rings that they are round, and pointed in the same direction is likely to be in for a surprise! Not unusual to find only 25% of a ring was going to make contact with the tube before lapping. I've lapped quite a few, and only found 1 "perfect" set.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

I do quite a bit of gunsmithing working for my gunsmith buddy. (Old Army armorer with gunsmithing training) Don't know how many scope setups I've done over the past decade and a half, but it's been plenty

When setting up scopes or other applications where a screw/bolt/nut needs to stay on in critical applications, we use blue loctite. This allows you to correctly torque the screw/bolt/nut without overtorqueing in the hopes it will stay on. We also lap the rings as mentioned above to level the scope and get the best grip.

Works too, no matter how hot or mild the load is or how powerful the cartridge is, things stay in place in critical situations and we don't get upset customers who's firearm "failed" at the critical moment due to nuts, bolts or screws coming off/out.

To the OP: That's what blue loctite was designed for. If you want consistency and success, I suggest you use it in your application.

Regards,

Dave