Corbin core mold

[plumber]

I finally got my rimfire kit in from Corbin.
Does anyone have any sugestions or ideas on how or where to mount the core mold? Upon reading the instructions and looking over the mold, it looks like it might be a pain to use.

[shooterg]

If it's the 4 adjustable cavity type like Blackmon's, I just screwed mine into the table close to the pot with cavities hanging off table, pour 'em, knock the sprue handle, bump upward on all 4, with a cardboard box beneath, most fall in the box, usually do about 1000 at a sitting. As always, gloves a must !

[plumber]

What about the sprue?

[Caveape]

Plumber,

Congrats on your new equipment! It's very exciting!

I have a 4-cav core mold for the .224 setup and I have cast thousands and thousands by just holding it in my hand and pouring into it with the old stlye Lyman dipper with the spout on it.

Even though mine has mounting holes in the "handle", I never thought about mounting it to anything. It would just limit me on where I could use it. Some days I cast in the back yard, others in the garage with door open and fan blowing for good ventilation.

The solid bar stock handle gets pretty hot, but I always hold my molds with an insulated welding glove for more peace of mind anyway and this method has worked very well for me.

Just some thoughts for you. Hope they help.

Caveape

[deltaenterprizes]

What about the sprue?

put it back in the pot

[plumber]

put it back in the pot

Kinda figured that one!:idea:
I was refering how to get the sprue off the sprue plate.

I'm liking the hand held idea. I could probably make a handle
for it. It'd be even better if I could use the bottom pour.

[calaloo]

I mounted mine to a short section of 2 X 4 which is held in a vice. Do this and it is still portable. A piece of 2 X 2 wold work just as well.

[swage86]

I had 2 core molds mounted to a piece of 2X4 that I mounted in a vice. One pointing to the right and the other pointing to the left.

As for the sprue, as I poured, I put a 3-4" piece of large paper clip wire in the sprue. As I alternated pouring into each mold, I would just pull out the sprue by the wire and dip it back into the pot. I didn't see any other way to get the sprue out.

[deltaenterprizes]

A sharpened flat blade screwdriver should be able to lift the sprue from the end and lift it so it can be grabbed with a pair of pliers and removed,that is how I did it with mine.

[Jjed]

Plumber
The spruce is a pain in the butt. The mold works but I think it's a poor way to do it. Just as the last post said you need a screwdriver and pliers. A clam type mold with adjustable stops would work much better. You have to keep the mold hot or you will have problems.
I start by warming it up with a propane torch then cast core’s, You do not want this mold attached to a bench with anything that may get knocked over by opening the spruce cutter. (It takes a bit of force) I screw mine to a different bench with the lead pot close and feed it as fast as I can. You will get the hang of it in no time. For plinking loads I use a piece of wood with holes just big enough for the cases to fit into and pour lead into the case strait from my pot, with the case touching the pour spout, you must make sure there is no water at all in the case or it will get ugly real quick. After I seat the core and run them through the point-forming die, now you will get different amounts of lead in the case. I just clip off the excess with side cutters they still feed with no problems, (ar15), boolits weight around 70gr. doing it this way and you will need to play with the point forming die, but for me when I shoot a rapid fire match up to 100 YDS they work well and you can make a pile of boolits in no time.
P.S.
Please use eye and a mask protection when casting.

[plumber]

Does anyone know if there is an adjustable clam shell type mold on the market anywhere? This thing works, but it is slow!!

[Lead pot]

For a .224 I wouldn't mess with a core mould.
I would use a roll of 1/8" 40/60 or 50/50 solder. Core seat it or core bond it and be done with it. One roll of solder will make a lot of cores.

[plumber]

50/50? Hmm. I figured that would be to hard? I guess I'm hung up on this pure lead idea. I've got a bit of 50/50 lingering around, might be worth a shot. I do believe a 6+ cavity clam shell type core mold would be super quick.

[ANeat]

Plumber Im still waiting on my press but Ive thought about making my own core mold. I havent decided if I would just settle on a specific size or try to build in some kind of adjustability.

I have a few old Lee 6 cavity molds, I may just flip one of those and put some holes in it


Ive had some success at extruding out lead wire with my shop press but I wouldnt say I have that perfected yet

[BT Sniper]

"I have a few old Lee 6 cavity molds, I may just flip one of those and put some holes in it"

I've done this. Took the spure plate off the top and drill/taped it on bottom. Drilled from bottom 5 holes to fit inbetween the six on top. Worked good. Probably going to do the same next time I buy one for 22 cal cores.

[plumber]

I wonder if lee would sell a blank?

[Jjed]

This is one i made using the direct pour. I like the solder idea LEAD POT, it's one of those slap yourself on the forehead, why didn't i think of that moments.

[Jjed]

Here is someone who sells blank molds. has anyone used these?

http://www.terminaltackleco.com/prod_detail_list/470

[ANeat]

I think finding some aluminum blocks would be less expensive. Wouldnt take much to get a block machines into something like a 6 cavity.

I looked at a Lee 6 cavity and there really isnt enough room to flip one unless you tried to squeeze the cavities between the others.

If someone can find some material Ill be glad to do a little machining

[BT Sniper]

Yep I did squeeze 5 cavities between the six on the opposite side.

[ANeat]

I think a block the size of a 6 cavity you could squeeze 8 or 10 cavities if a guy made a blank

[Caveape]

Plumber,

Don't throw your Corbin core mold out yet!
I have never had ANY problems getting the sprue off of the sprue plate on mine. It falls loose either at the end of the cutting stroke or on the return stroke.
I haven't looked at my 4-cav core mold in 4 or 5 months, but it seems like someone ground the pour channel in the top of the sprue plate deeper to eliminate the stuck sprue problem. It was this way when I got it and has worked like a dream ever since.

I figure deepening the pour channel makes for a heavier sprue that falls/knocks loose easier.
I believe that one good tap up on the bottom eject bar is easier and faster than a "clam shell" type mold for cores.

Also, had anyone tried applying some release agent to JUST the sprue plate to help eliminate stuck sprues? I haven't, but it just might work.

More thoughts to consider.....

Caveape

[BT Sniper]

Just sent Lee an e-mail asking about getting one of their 6 cavity molds blank. We shall see what they have to say. Anyone know of this occuring?

[plumber]

I tried using some bullplate on the channel and it helped a lot. The one reason I think a clam shell type mold would be faster is bottom pour, that and I hate the ladle!

[ANeat]

I found me some scrap 1.25 thick aluminum and Ill see what it takes to at least get a blank. Im curious to see what Lee says as well.

I cant promise anything but if it works out Ill crank out a few

[deltaenterprizes]

I use .750'' 6061 for my mold blocks. I have some 3'' wide that would make blocks similar to Lyman 4 cavity blocks. What size cores do you want?

[Caveape]

Good point, Plumber.

It would be best to take the lead pot off of its stand and attach it to the side of the workbench or work table so you could get your 4-cav core mold under it OR make a taller and thus more sturdy stand than the factory one. That way you would have the best of both worlds: a faster pour and a faster eject

You'd just have to make for darn sure that it is attached VERY well. Man, I don't want to think of what could happen if the pot fell off during use!

[BT Sniper]

Got repply back from Lee. For $45 you can get the 6 cavity mold blank. I was hoping to get a better deal then that. Looks like I may just pic up a $38 6 cavity 93 grain 32 cal mold or the 105 38 caliber mold and bore them out.