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cabezaverde
12-09-2009, 10:29 AM
Any ideas on the best way to adjust the volume downward on the rotors of fixed cavity measures, such as the Little Dandy or Lyman Accumeasure?

I am looking for something that is reversable if and when I want to change the volume back to the original.

Guesser
12-09-2009, 10:33 AM
I have used soft solder in the brass rotors of the old Bonanza Bullseye pistol powder measure. Low heat and will clean up using the same low heat.

dragonrider
12-09-2009, 01:26 PM
Perhaps a dab of hot melt glue???

Bullshop Junior
12-09-2009, 01:28 PM
how about getting more rotors?

deltaenterprizes
12-09-2009, 01:50 PM
Plastic frige magnets.

cheese1566
12-09-2009, 01:59 PM
Brass tubing from hobby or hardware stores.

They come in a range of sizes that will fit snug within each other. Find one that fits your inner rotor snug, them buy more that will progressly fit inside each other like bushings. Cut them down in length using a tubing cutter. Make them slightly out of round so they friction fit each other and won't fall out.

cabezaverde
12-09-2009, 05:49 PM
how about getting more rotors?

I am talking small adjustments - in between offered sizes.

Rat-Man
12-09-2009, 06:06 PM
Tiny rare earth magnets in the bottom of the cavity? Do a google search and you can find some small ones. Once in they won't fall out by accident.

Baron von Trollwhack
12-09-2009, 06:29 PM
Many times you can get those sheet magnets as giveaways. Use your hole punches to make whatever size you want, and of course 1/2s , 1/4s, etc. If you really want small, use those hole punches to make paper address label stickies. Or a drop of candle wax, or just drill carefully to make a custom job. BvT

jhrosier
12-09-2009, 07:13 PM
I have heard of guys lining the cavity with a layer or more of masking tape.

Jack

Mk42gunner
12-09-2009, 07:53 PM
My suggestion is: five minute epoxy, drill the epoxy to whatever size is needed. If you want to remove it heat the rotor with a propane torch.



Robert

1hole
12-09-2009, 11:03 PM
It would take some rare earth indeed to make a magnet that would stick to Lyman's brass drums.

Mk42 has the correct answer. Warm the drum to insure the rapid set epoxy runs smoothly to the bottom, use a proper sized drill to ream it to any in-between volume you wish.

ANeat
12-09-2009, 11:17 PM
If I wanted a custom rotor I would either make one from scratch or buy a smaller one and ream it out.

Im a little suprized that no-one offers custom or blank rotors

When I was using a Lee measure with the discs I had a couple I had altered to a custom size

cabezaverde
12-10-2009, 12:24 PM
Great ideas here - thank you all.

Echo
12-10-2009, 02:01 PM
I have used masking tape or epoxy in inserts for my Hornady/Pacific Pistol Powder measures, and have had no issues with fallout. The masking tape is easy to adjust to get the measure to throw exactly the weight you are looking for.
But +1 for getting a smaller rotor and reaming it out to the weight you need.

TAWILDCATT
12-13-2009, 02:21 PM
I made a number of blanks.might even find cold rolled the right size and cut to length.if you have a school with a machine tool class they might even make them for cost of material.they could even knurl the end.

tall grass
12-13-2009, 06:04 PM
I have a dandy with a #18 (I think) rotor. The hole is 7/16" so use a hole punch that size to make some discs and calibrate it to the charge needed. Getting tired of calibrating every time so am going to start keeping the discs in a small envelope for each charge weight. Inner tube rubber works well for thicker discs (about 0.050" thick); cereal box cardboard is a little thinner (~0.010"); card stock thinner yet. The dandy is handy but don't like the fixed sizes.

Merry Christmas

Jim

David2011
01-24-2010, 08:41 PM
Cabezaverde,

Have you considered buying a smaller size rotor and opening it up with a carbide rotary cutter or stone with a Dremel or die grinder? You might be able to use a bit and drill press, too.

As a lifelong model ariplane builder and flyer and former aircraft mechanic I have some real concerns about epoxy sticking to metal over the long term. I've peeled old 5 minute epoxy off of surfaces after it was a few years old. There was almost no adhesion. If the intersurface is sufficiently roughed up you would at least get a mechanical interference fit but most epoxies will not actually adhere to metal over the long term. Aeropoxy is the only epoxy I know of that will stick to metal long term. I'm sure I'll get flamed for that statement but I'll stand by it. The hobby shop and hardware store epoxies and even WEST System can all be peeled off of smooth aluminum as soon as they cure and aren't much harder to get off of smooth steel. I wouldn't want to use anything that could come out and overcharge or end up in a case.

David

jsizemore
01-27-2010, 08:24 PM
A common fix on MEC bushings is to build up electricians tape or a little more permanent fix that's reversible is to build up fingernail polish. I use a metallic red that builds up fast and is easy to see if it's removed with acetone or denatured alcohol. I've also used small pieces of PEX water pipe for gross adjustment. Scotch tape will work too.