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View Full Version : Anybody know the Winchester 100?



JIMinPHX
12-05-2009, 11:50 PM
I'm trying to get an old Winchester 100 apart. It's not budging.

The action doesn't want to open. The bolt handle will move about 1/32" & that's about it. The rotary bolt piece will turn about 1/16" freely & then stops dead. The cylinder behind the rotary piece goes forward & back about 3/32 & feels spring loaded. I'm not sure what is locking it up. It looks like I can't get the stock off to look at it better until I get the bolt to the back position.

The story that I got, was that it was fired, then the bore was wiped with hoppies & left wet, then it was put in the cabinet for about 2 months & then it got stuck. That was several years ago. The action hasn't been opened since.

I got all the little parts that I can access to move by spraying them down with WD-40 & working them back & forth gently. They didn't fight me too hard, except that the bolt will not release.

Does anybody know this gun? Can anybody tell me which direction the rotary bolt needs to turn to unlock? Can anyone tell me what latches up the rotary bolt or the bolt handle? Any info would be appreciated. I haven't seen one of these apart in probably 10 years & I just don't remember them very well.

Thanks,
Jim

Mk42gunner
12-06-2009, 12:38 AM
Jim,

It has been a couple of years since I had a Model 100, and I only took it down a couple of times. I found a decent troubleshooting guide on the internet, it had a lot of info about the model 88 also. I think it was from one of the companies that handled the firing pin recall.

I remember it was a pain in the neck to get the stock off.

Robert

StarMetal
12-06-2009, 12:51 AM
I just recently got rid of a 100 in 243 caliber. Mine was the carbine with the barrel band. If I remember correctly after removing the action screws, magazine, and barrel band...I had to put the bolt back to get it out of the stock. I can't say what's binding yours up. They are very very simple inside.

Have you tried being just a tad forceful with the bolt handle?

Joe

JIMinPHX
12-06-2009, 01:50 AM
Got it.

The gas piston was glued/rusted up solid. PB blaster & a brass punch got the job done.

Thanks for the responses guys.

wistlepig1
12-06-2009, 01:57 AM
Jim, if you have some Kroil, spray the H### out of it and let it sit for a full 24 hrs. Best of luck.

higgins
12-06-2009, 01:01 PM
Before I did anything else, I would first put a cleaning rod down the bore, check the length that goes in against the overall barrel length, to make sure there's not a live round stuck in the chamber. Don't take someone else's word that there's not.

JIMinPHX
12-06-2009, 01:38 PM
Before I did anything else, I would first put a cleaning rod down the bore, check the length that goes in against the overall barrel length, to make sure there's not a live round stuck in the chamber. Don't take someone else's word that there's not.

That was the very first thing that I did. The cleaning rod when all the way to the breach face of the stuck bolt.

Thanks for posting that though. An extra reminder about safety is not a bad thing. I have been known to overlook the obvious on the odd occasion.

As it turned out, these things had two classic problems that locked up the action. This one was suffering from both problems. The trigger had been pulled while the chamber was empty & the gas piston was glued/rusted in the forward position. In case anyone else ever needs to get one of these things apart in the future, I found good info here -
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218994
& here -
http://stevespages.com/ipb-winchester-100.html


Thanks again for the replies guys. The job is now done. The action moves freely again.

stephen perry
12-06-2009, 02:29 PM
The Model 100 was one Winchester's better ideas in a Hunting Rifle. I sold one in the shop I think .284 what a loss on my part. I had a Rem 742 in 30-06 I like that Model 100 better. More refined some Custom touches. I wouldn't like the .243 as well rather have my bolt but .308 would be handy. Not often do we get a semi-custom factory gun.

Stephen Perry
Angeles BR :brokenima

TAWILDCATT
12-06-2009, 02:47 PM
the NRA firearms assembly book has the take down.

JIMinPHX
12-06-2009, 05:46 PM
the NRA firearms assembly book has the take down.

Would you care to post that page?

Rockydog
12-07-2009, 01:23 AM
Jim, There was a couple of recalls on these. The original firing pin design allowed a broken pin to lock in a protruding position and these would slam fire and go full auto IIRC. I think there was a second recall also. There was a site on the net where you could enter a serial number to see if yours had been sent in foe the recall. Don't know if it's still up or not. RD

Cadillo
12-07-2009, 01:27 AM
Would you care to post that page?


Please!

My nephew has one that I need to check in order to know whether the firing pin was changed as per the recall. I'm afraid for him to shoot it until we know due to the danger of a slam fire caused by a stuck or broken stock firing pin.

In looking at it, I couldn't see how to get it out of the stock, something that I manage to do with most rifles.

JIMinPHX
12-07-2009, 07:59 AM
To get it out of the stock -
1) take out the screw on the bottom of the fore end.
2) take out the screw next to the trigger guard.
3) pull the bolt handle to the rear most position.
4) while the bolt is held back, lift the barreled action out of the stock, muzzle end first.

That will get the stock off, after that, I don't know how to proceed further. You do NOT need to remove the long bolt from inside the stock. The piece that bolt goes into stays with the stock when the action comes out.

I found a reference on the internet saying that the original firing pin was round all the way up & that the replacement pin had a larger, not round section in the center. I'm not sure how to get the pin out to inspect it. I'm not sure if you can tell the two pins apart without disassembling it further. You can see the rear of the pin assembly without taking off the stock, by looking in from the magazine well.

If anybody has pictures of the old pin & the new pin that they could post, that would probably be helpful.

Mk42gunner
12-07-2009, 06:01 PM
Please!

My nephew has one that I need to check in order to know whether the firing pin was changed as per the recall. I'm afraid for him to shoot it until we know due to the danger of a slam fire caused by a stuck or broken stock firing pin.

In looking at it, I couldn't see how to get it out of the stock, something that I manage to do with most rifles.

FWIW the Model 100 that I owned had the modification done, but no letter stamed inside the receiver. I don't have any pictures, but the following description should help.

The difference in the old firing pin and the new one is as follows. The old replaced style, was totally lathe tuned (round). While the new recall style is similar in lathe turning on the front and back, but in the front midsection it has two flats milled, one on each side. This makes the center section stronger. Also replaced is the bolt sleeve lock pin (firing pin guide) which was made to accommodate this different shaped firing pin
Part number for the new parts are, firing pin =1391ND, bolt sleeve locking pin =1491ND
The word was at the time this recall was in process was that if the firing pin would break at the mid section and still remain in the gun as two pieces, the possibility of a premature discharge before the bolt was locked was possible. This apparently was caused by the firing pin tip (now not having a retracting spring) to be stuck forward, and thereby slam-firing upon chambering.

The responsibility for the recall apparently was on Olin, as they were the parent company at time of manufacture. Olin set up regional recall centers at three established US gunshops. There was a manufacturing delay in the replacement firing pins, and a backlog occurred, also some collectors did not like the idea of shipping their guns long distances. Olin then also authorized other gunshops to make the required alterations. Upon completion of the recall, the shops were to test fire the firearm and to stamp an assigned letter on the inside top of the receiver as seen thru the magazine well with the bolt retracted. The letter “B” represented Bolsa Gunsmithing, “L” was Lefever, and “N” was for Nu-line Guns. The letter “X” apparently was for all the other independent shops. However this identification information did not get communicated to some of the smaller shops at the start of the project. The only way to tell if the gun as been modified, if the ”letter” is not present, is to take the barrel & action out of the stock, remove the trigger guard assembly and the try to rotate the firing pin by twisting it. If it does NOT rotate, then the firing pin recall HAS been performed.

I really liked the feel of these rifles, but mine had two failures to fire; one at a deer, the other was at a coyote. That was two too many for me so the rifle went bye-bye.

Robert

StarMetal
12-07-2009, 06:17 PM
I also believe the recall place collects the serial numbers of the rifles that have been fitted with a new firing pin.

Joe

Rockydog
12-08-2009, 01:38 AM
Here is a link to all you ever wanted to know about Win 88s and 100s. These guys make replacement parts for a ton of guns. I ordered some old double gun parts from them. Great service, very knowledgable. If I needed gun parts this is where I'd go. RD

http://www.wisnersinc.com/additional_info/winchesterl_88_100.htm

JIMinPHX
12-13-2009, 10:51 PM
Here is a link to all you ever wanted to know about Win 88s and 100s. ...
http://www.wisnersinc.com/additional_info/winchesterl_88_100.htm

Wow, you ain't kiddin!

Thanks!