Gun lubercation

[redneckdan]

I read larry vickers homepage a couple days ago and he mentioned some fancy shmancy gun grease for use on 1911s. The idea behind grease instead of oil is that grease will stay inplace much longer than oil, providing better lubercation. I didn't have any of this fancy grease so I grabed the gun fulla molybdelum grease and gave it a try on my springfield milspec. I shot it sunday, put about 150 rds down range. Upon field stripping, the gun was still well lubercated and cycled smoothly, the grease was where I put it when I applied it, not like CLP which tends to run out.

[fecmech]

Dan--I've been using plain old Lubriplate for years on the rails of my auto's. I would not put it on a carry gun in the winter time though, that would be the only caveat.

[klausg]

Dan-the Army uses their version on the Bradley's 25mm gun, of course in true military format it's called "Grease, Molybendum Disulfide" or GMD, (the 25mm actually gets hot enough to spotweld the bolt to the breech if you don't lube it, and that's a REAL PITA to clear) I've never used the stuff on my own weapons but we did sometimes use it on the Ma Deuces (.50 cal). Of course it wasn't on the Lube Order, but a light coat on the rails did a very nice job. Bruce Drake is probably doing cheetah-flips over not following the lube order.

-SSG Klaus

[redneckdan]

Dan--I've been using plain old Lubriplate for years on the rails of my auto's. I would not put it on a carry gun in the winter time though, that would be the only caveat.


My thoughts too. I don't plan to use this lube on my 1911 when I carry, it will be plain old gun oil. I will break out the moly lube for hard core shooting sessions.

[Lloyd Smale]

I use tetra grease on my 1911s

[redneckdan]

Just got back from 200rds of fast paced anger managment. 1911 worked grease, still cycles smoothly. Definitely noticeble difference over gun oil.

[Bucks Owin]

I like famous old 'smith Roy Dunlap's advice:

"Slop on as much oil as you can and then wipe off as much oil as you can"

This seems to work fine when I occasionally tear down a gun (completely) for cleaning....

FWIW,

Dennis

[robertbank]

Went the grease route on my new Tanfoglio. Works great. Now going to use it on my rails on my 1911 and CZ 85. Slides seems to slide faster with less effort, Will switch to oil in late fall.

Take Care


Bob

[twotoescharlie]

I like 5w30 mobile 1 , buy it by the quart, last a long time. ain't slung a rod or locked up any of my firearms so far!!

TTC

[felix]

For lever guns and revolters, something in a spray can having moly powder and a real solvent as a carrier. Solvent like 1,1,1-trichloro-xxxx, acetone, MEK, etc. Clean the barrel on occassion with normal stuff, but usually stroke with nylon brush only with nothing on it to break up the lube, and sorta' get it out of the land corners before the lube gets hard (over time). Moly powder on bolt rifle lugs, clean lug corners well with dry paper towel first. Clean rifle trigger squirting lighter fluid, followed by a drop of Jojoba. ... felix

[DLCTEX]

I use luibriplate in a spray can, with the little red tube I can direct it where I want it and wipe off any excess. As for cold weather, it's under my coat and doesn't get any colder than I do except when being fired, then I usually fire enough rounds through it to keep it warm. The lubriplate clings pretty well.

[AnthonyB]

I shoot the various 1911s more than any other handgun, and my pistols get a detail strip every time they are fired. Ejectors, plunger tubes, and grip screw bushings stay on the frame, but everything else comes off. After cleaning I follow the "spray oil and wipe off" routine, then use Tetra, Rig, or grease-gun grease on the hammer/sear, disconnector, frame rails, barrel hood, and link. Revolvers get a detail strip every other range session. I probably clean/disassemble too much, but it makes me happy. Tony

[StarMetal]

Tony,

I agree with you, you do clean your guns too much. I hope you don't detail deassemble your car engine after so many miles and clean it too. [smilie=1:

Joe

[AnthonyB]

Joe, what can I say? I may be the only guy in my zip code who can take a M92 or M94 down for cleaning in five minutes or less, and that is when I am taking my time. I never understood the supposed "advantage" the Marlin has over the Winchester in ease of disassembly - both are easy after you have done it once.
Engines are a different story. I trust Mobil 1 to keep bad things at bay and don't worry overly much there. Tony

[Char-Gar]

On my 1911s, I place a drop of oil between the cocked hammer and the frame , a drop down the disconnector and another on the end of the barrel. The rails, bottom of the slid where the disconnector rides gets a light coat of Tetra gun-grease.

I live in deep South Texas and we don't have cold weather to speak off, so the grease is a year round affair.

[9.3X62AL]

I started using "RIG Plus-P" grease on the slide rails of all my auto pistols in 1983, and still do so. Not only does it "stay put", its chemistry prevents galling in situations where carbon steel or stainless steel is riding on aluminum alloy--which fits the description of MANY autopistol platforms. CLP gets the call for most other applications.

[C1PNR]

I started using "RIG Plus-P" grease on the slide rails of all my auto pistols in 1983, and still do so. Not only does it "stay put", its chemistry prevents galling in situations where carbon steel or stainless steel is riding on aluminum alloy--which fits the description of MANY autopistol platforms. CLP gets the call for most other applications.
Wow!! Ditto for me, and for the same reason(s), except it was in the later 80's before I started with the "Rig + P" grease.

[redneckdan]

I shoot the various 1911s more than any other handgun, and my pistols get a detail strip every time they are fired.

i usually field strip my 1911 after every time I shoot it. it gets completely taken down when shmutz gets down in the fire group or before I carry it. I remove the crane on my smith 19 and clean everything after ever use, I usually detail strip it once a year.

[Newtire]

I have been giving the internal workings of my guns a light glaze of anti-seize compund that I also use for lug nuts etc. Seems the heavy grease route just collects too much grit.

[HiWayMan]

I have gone to grease as well on my autos. I have been known to use standard automotive axle grease and Pennzoil 10W40 for lubricants. Haven't had a single hitch in my giddy-up yet.

[Stray Round]

I'm afraid that I disagree with the usual wisdom that an auto should be ran almost dry with no oil visible. I've NEVER seen an auto choke from too much oil but have seen alot of malfunctions due to not having enough lubricant.

Also, if the gun is a carry or duty gun it seems as if the holster or clothing wicks some of the lub away. The Beretta 92 it particulary critical to keep lubed and during qualifications those who failed to regularly refresh the rails and block with gun oil could be counted on to have malfunctions.

Until recently I have been using a large batch of BreakFree that I purchased in the 80's and was happy with it until running out and buying some recent production that is noticably thinner. I now use BreakFree for rust protection and Mobil 1 for lubricating. In the little pocket auto loaders I have used a touch of Brownell's Action Lube with BreakFree on the slide & rails as these little guns get dry pretty fast.

I've been considering trying the Honda 60 paste that is 60% moly for some uses too.

[Bullshop]

Stray Round
Thats prolly goodnuf in a warm climate but here where its cold it dont do so good. Any oil or grease turns to a solid glue and stops things up good. Not only will it stop an auto action but will even freeze up the firing pin in a bolt gun. It only takes a few minutes of exposier at - 30 to - 50 to freeze up a gun so its no better than a rock. The only thing I have found to keep things in working order in cold is to completely strip all oil and grease and relube with molly powder. Dry is the only thing that works here.
BIC/BS

[fourarmed]

An old gunsmith and bullseye shooter once told me how to lube a 1911. Lock the slide back, point the gun up at a 45 degree angle, and apply oil to the top of the barrel. When it runs off your elbow, stop.

[BABore]

Brownell's Action Lube Plus. A black hi techy grease. You wipe it on good then wipe it back off. Works great. I've also used it as an instant trigger job on some guns. It will take a pound or two off.