Mule Ear Lock Comparison

[jim4065]

These are Tingle and Navy Arms locks. The larger (Tingle) lockplate is 4 and 11/16" long by 1" high by 1/4" thick.

[jim4065]

Three more.

[madcaster]

They look like great locks.

[scrapcan]

That would be intersting to shoot. may not be so good for a lefty. Can you feel the hammer hit moe with pressure to the left?

[Razor]

I been wanting one, does anyone make/sell them ??
(besides Pioneer)

[357maximum]

Thanks for the pics....much appreciated.


I am getting the lusties for a mule ear. Still got some parts to collect though.

[jim4065]

That would be intersting to shoot. may not be so good for a lefty. Can you feel the hammer hit moe with pressure to the left?

Yes - you can feel the hammer slap home, but it's never disturbed my aim. In fact, that cheap little Navy Arms "Country Boy" is my most accurate BP rifle. :mrgreen:

Edit: Except for the TC Omega (a scope never hurts).

[4060MAY]

Razor
http://pioneerarms.com/mule_ear_lock.html

will be available again in the winter

[357maximum]

I sure would like to see a pic of the business side of that pioneer lock......anybody?

[Razor]

4060... I think that sign at PIONEER is left over from last winter...[smilie=s:

I sure would like to see a pic of the business side of that pioneer lock Me too..:bigsmyl2:

[4060MAY]

Razor
I have some .pdf files showing the construction of a mule ear lock as appeared in a British "Muzzleloader" magazine.
I downloaded the files from a web site that no longer exists and I don't think I have permission to post them.
not sure how to post a .pdf file any how.

PM and I'll send to your personal email, if you want them.

[Razor]

Heck Yeah, I want them....

PM to follow asap..

Thanks

[4060MAY]

on the way

[John Taylor]

You could always make your own. This one has a bell crank type lever so it will work on a T/C double set trigger. Notice the hole in the main spring for the lock retaining screw. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l132/johnptaylor/muleear3.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l132/johnptaylor/muleear2.jpg

[357maximum]

JOHN

You need to put that lock in an envelope and send it to me. I would look right nice on my .50 cougar.:bigsmyl2:

Did you build that yourself?.....do you have a blueprint?

[John Taylor]

JOHN

You need to put that lock in an envelope and send it to me. I would look right nice on my .50 cougar.:bigsmyl2:

Did you build that yourself?.....do you have a blueprint?

The story behind the lock. Many years ago I swapped into a T/C flinter that was unfired but had bang around someones closet for years. I have shot caplock for 30 years so thought I would give it a try. I had fired about 15 shots at a paper plate about 35 yards and only hit it maybe eight times. Was loading for the next shot when a big tom walked out of the brush about 15 yards away. I knew a head shot was out and a body shot with a 50 wouldn't leave much. I dumped the charge and walk about 20 yards to the shop and started making a mule ear lock to fit the rifle. Along with the lock it got a new half round barrel with wedding band. I have no plans, started by shaping a piece of metal to fit the stock and then went from there. I thought it was funny when I got to the mainspring and realized it interfered with the lock screw so I just drilled a hole to clear. I wanted to be able to switch it back some day but have lost the flintlock. I think someone helped me to loose it. The rifle shoots better than I do now, old eyes. I have had many ask me to make another one but it is all machined, no castings. It might cost $400 to $500 for me to take the time to do another one. The first one was more of a hobby than trying to make a living at it.

[357maximum]

Thanks John...I understand the price and the hours to make one.......I am however a cheap err frugal man.

So far I have the lockplate cut out and here it sits......not sure how to progress, but I will figure it out when I get the time to really think about it. I think mine will have a coil spring and some possible weldments...I am not a machinist.

[Razor]

You could always make your own.

I intend to... [smilie=s: if'n I can find a good detail drwg, exploded drwg, etc.

No milling experience here, just blacksmithing

[4060MAY]

I talked to my friend this morning in Florida
he sells the castings for a mule ear lock
he will be back in April and I will post pictures and price

[John Taylor]

When making your own it helps to be a mechanic and be able to see things in your minds eye on how the parts should function together. My wife and I talk of these things quite often, she is talented at playing music and I can't get any of the notes right. God gave each of us different talents and we will find happiness when working with these talents. One of the things that people can't understand about me is I can't put it down on paper first, I just build it. I have had several request for lock plans and for my rifling machine, none are on paper and I can't plug the printer in my ear and print them out.

[4060MAY]

some places for ideas
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4468877.html
also look at the reference patents on the right
more than enough to get into it

[4060MAY]

John
I bet John Browning did the same, and someone made patent drawings from his models.

Nice looking lock by the way

[357maximum]

John

I use the same system with woodworks. Now when it comes to steel...I am getting better.....weld it, grint, bolt it, grind it, weld it, grind it....until it works.:bigsmyl2:

My new underhammer and my new mule ear are both in a great big old shoe box full of assorted parts/springs...my job is to find out which ones can be made to work. My scratch built underhammer is going to be a laminated reciever stealing attributes of a H&A underhammer and lever action/falling/rolling block rifles....some day. I am holding it together with pins until it is finished and then I will weld all the laminations together.

I personally find wood to be a friendlier medium...but I am slowly getting steel to be more friendly.

[John Taylor]

under hammer frames, a piece of cake. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l132/johnptaylor/UHbend.jpg
this one just happen to be out of brass but steel work well also.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l132/johnptaylor/brassUHparts.jpg

[357maximum]

Piece of cake if you have a mill. My hammer trigger/raceway is being done with drill bits and files.

[Mk42gunner]

under hammer frames, a piece of cake. http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l132/johnptaylor/UHbend.jpg
this one just happen to be out of brass but steel work well also.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l132/johnptaylor/brassUHparts.jpg

John, this idea is so simple, it caused me to have a Homer Simpson moment.

Going back to the hole in the mainspring, how much clearance did you give between the spring and the srew?

Thanks,

Robert

[peter nap]

One thing that's always helped me when building a lock, was to build it in wood first.

Helps to work the bugs out.

[John Taylor]

Mk42gunner, It doesn't need a lot of clearance, just enough so it does not rub. If I remember right it is elongated a bit. Used a carbide end mill probably, been a long time ago.
Here's a picture of scalloping the sides on a brass under hammer frame.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l132/johnptaylor/UHmachinesides.jpg?t=1260237621

[Razor]

4060 ..Yes, :p Please do post when your friend is ready...and thanks for the link..

Mr. Peter Nap....a most excellent idea :idea:....THANK YOU... :bigsmyl2:

[Mk42gunner]

[QUOTE=John Taylor;739868]Mk42gunner, It doesn't need a lot of clearance, just enough so it does not rub. If I remember right it is elongated a bit. Used a carbide end mill probably, been a long time ago.QUOTE]

Okay, I was thinking of drilling the hole with the spring in an annealed state then hardening it; but I thought the hole in the spring would cause all sorts of problems.

Nice pictures of the brass frame; I have always liked the looks of underhammers, never had one though.

Thanks,


Robert

[jim4065]

Sam Fadala's friend, Dale Storey, was doing business as DGS, Inc. of Casper, WY. I believe he had a patent on a special Mule Ear design. Don't have a web link, but maybe someone in that area could get a phone number. A lot of these custom gunsmiths are really decent people - he may be willing to give you some ideas - or perhaps a dimensioned drawing (for a few bucks).

[Razor]

I just GOOGLED it and found Name, address & phone number..
Thanks
[smilie=s: