S & W Model 27 problem

[Wally]

I have fired thousands of rounds through this poistol and I have noticed the cylinder drags on the breach of the barrel. Seems the # 6 bushing has been eroded by blowby gases and that is causing the problem. I have the part from S & W..now I need to know how to unscrew the cylinder from the crane so that I can remove & replace it. The model has LH threads that affix the cylinder to the crane.

Has anyone else had this problem?

[StarMetal]

I have fired thousands of rounds through this poistol and I have noticed the cylinder drags on the breach of the barrel. Seems the # 6 bushing has been eroded by blowby gases and that is causing the problem. I have the part from S & W..now I need to know how to unscrew the cylinder from the crane so that I can remove & replace it. The model has LH threads that affix the cylinder to the crane.

Has anyone else had this problem?

First you put a few unloaded cartridge cases in the cylinder, six if you wish, then with padding like leather or lead clamp the end the ejector rod (the part that is knurled) in a vise. Now grasp the cylinder with your hand and unscrew it. It's not really that tight or hard. Once you get it apart you'll fully understand it. When putting it back together don't over tighten it. The cases in the cylinder are so you don't torque and twist the extractor star.

Joe

[targetshootr]

Brownells sell a clamp to go over the ejector rod just for this.

[Wally]

First you put a few unloaded cartridge cases in the cylinder, six if you wish, then with padding like leather or lead clamp the end the ejector rod (the part that is knurled) in a vise. Now grasp the cylinder with your hand and unscrew it. It's not really that tight or hard. Once you get it apart you'll fully understand it. When putting it back together don't over tighten it. The cases in the cylinder are so you don't torque and twist the extractor star.

Joe

Thank you..

When I bought the pistol, some years ago, it kept coming loose so I used lock-tite to prevent this. Hopefully I can twist it loose again...as this was so long ago, I had forgotten how to remove the cylinder from the crane.

[targetshootr]

The forward screw on the side plate should free up the cyl crane.

[Wally]

Brownells sell a clamp to go over the ejector rod just for this.

I'll use some hardwood blocks in a vise to hold the ejector rod--that should do it...

Thanks!

[Wally]

The forward screw on the side plate should free up the cyl crane.

Thank you...

[KCSO]

Heat it with a hair dryer before you wrench on it blue lock tight softens at about 200 degrees and red at 300 or so.

[Wally]

Heat it with a hair dryer before you wrench on it blue lock tight softens at about 200 degrees and red at 300 or so.

Great idea--thank you...

[Char-Gar]

I have a fair share of experience with both the Model 27 and 28 Smiths and here is my take on your issue;

1. Where the cylinder moves forward and drags on the root end of the barrel, the problem is called excess endshake and is caused by the recoil battering the end of the crane against the inside rear of the cylinder.
2. This is cured by either stetching the crane back to correct length or by adding an enshake bearing. Brownells sells both a tool to stretch and the bearings.
3. With the cylinder off of the frame and out of the crane, clamp the ejector rod in the padded jaws of a vise.
4. Place three empty cartridge cases, one in every other charge hole to keep the pressure off of those itty bitty pins that align the extractor star.
5. Simply turn the cylinder the correct direction with your hand and it will screw right off of the ejector rod. Watch out for the spring and don't let it get away from you.
6. Reassemble in reverse order with care not to over tighten. It is quite easy to twist the ejector rod by too much muscle on the cylinder. Just a firm hand tight.
7. You really don't want any oil on the threads of the ejector rod that screws into the cylinder clean it well.
8. While you have the crane out, stone the bearing end and make certain it is square and no hickies. Don't remove much metal or you will just make the endshake worse.

[Wally]

Charger

Thank you...I did get a new bushing from S & W (#6) and I am hoping that is all I need to do--just replace it..if not I'll need to get the endshake bearing. I suspect the bushing is the problem as blowby gases have burned holes in it! I also have substantial top strap cutting--I now only fire the gun with s steel strip inserted under the top strap, near the breach of the barrel to prevent further cutting. The strip lasts about 500 shots until it too is cut through. I bought this gun in 1995. I have a model 29 & a model 57 and none show the severe blow by gas cutting that I have in the Model 27. Do you have this problem in yours?

[Char-Gar]

I have about 20 of N frame Smiths including Models 25,27,28,29 and 57 and a number of the older Heavy Duty, Outdoorsman and Hand Ejector models. I have only experience flame cutting as you mentioned with the 357s (27 and 28), and then only moderatley.

I associate the type of flame cutting you mention with high pressure loads using light jacketed bullets. Those puppies will chew up a pistol PBQ. I shoot 200 38 Special loads for every full snort Magnum load. Even them I shoot cast bullets and about 14.5/2400 and experience very little flame cutting of the frame.

I quit shooting loads stronger than I need many years ago. I see no sense in stressing firearms, ears, hands, elbows and shoulders unless there is a need to do so. Shooting is supposed to be fun and not a puberty test.

Good shooting!

[Wally]

I have about 20 of N frame Smiths including Models 25,27,28,29 and 57 and a number of the older Heavy Duty, Outdoorsman and Hand Ejector models. I have only experience flame cutting as you mentioned with the 357s (27 and 28), and then only moderatley.

I associate the type of flame cutting you mention with high pressure loads using light jacketed bullets. Those puppies will chew up a pistol PBQ. I shoot 200 38 Special loads for every full snort Magnum load. Even them I shoot cast bullets and about 14.5/2400 and experience very little flame cutting of the frame.

I quit shooting loads stronger than I need many years ago. I see no sense in stressing firearms, ears, hands, elbows and shoulders unless there is a need to do so. Shooting is supposed to be fun and not a puberty test.

Good shooting!

I have been using 158 graisn cast SWC bullets with 7.0 HP-38 or 7.5 of Unique for many years now--I almost never use any hotter loads with slower burning powders as I happen to agree with you--there is no need to do so. As I have two good .38 Spec revolvers I don't use lower powered loads in the Model 27 as I can do so in the .38 Specials. I have steered clear of hot loads using lighter jacketed bullets as I had heard they are the worst culprits.