PDA

View Full Version : You know,with the idea of making a HP Plug,



madcaster
05-15-2006, 11:00 PM
I have been wondering,how to make a plate and how it will rotate away from a set of Lyman 4 cavity mould blocks.
One movement,4 HP slugs fall out...
How can it be made to happen????[smilie=1:
Oh Felix,you out there?
HeHeHe...[smilie=1:

Bent Ramrod
05-16-2006, 10:55 PM
Hi, Madcaster,

I've only done hollow point pins as the removable type in single cavities, never multiple ones. I don't recall ever seeing a multicavity hollow point mold with all the cavities hollow pointed.

I've never done a hollow base former on a multiple cavity, but on the one-cavity mold I made, I put the hollow base former on a plate held by two screws to the bottom of the mold and left the screws loose enough to allow the plate/former/bullet to slide about 1/4" away from the surface of the mold. The bullet can then fall off, and the former slides back when the mold blocks are closed again. I suppose if you had your 4-cavity on handles that opened wide enough, you could attach a plate with 4 formers to slide out in the same way. I use spring washers on the screws so the former doesn't sag; I guess you'd have to experiment with how tight you'd have to have the screws against the weight of 4 bullets at once.

Also, I would guess the depth of your hollow points would have to be very limited, maybe a dimple like those on Winchester .22 Powerpoints.

DLCTEX
05-17-2006, 08:09 AM
What about slotted holes on each end with spring washers. A projection on each end that is trapped in recesses in the mold to position the hollowpointers. This would require a method to slide the plate over so the bollits could be released, perhaps just tapping it over with a mallet? Also, if the pins are tapered enough the cavities could be deeper.

Buckshot
05-18-2006, 04:34 AM
http://www.fototime.com/26496D670796088/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/AD6CEF56C8FE717/standard.jpg
This is a 2C Lyman 311467 I hollowpointed for a member here using a captive pin.

I have a 4 cav Lyman for a SWC to re-work and then perform the same operation on. It had had some kind of setup before, but I have no idea how well it worked. Apparently not too well since it was sent to me to fix :-) . The idea for it will be similar to the 2 cav, except for having to workaround someone else's previous attempts at modifying it.

You place the blocks in the handle and then measure from the CL of the hinge pin to the center of the 1st and 4th cavity. Then you measure a small distance out from the parting line to either side for the bolts, then make a centerpunch to mark their positions. I used precision shouldered bolts in the example above.

Next you open the handles to measure the width between the 2 cenerpunched marks spanning the 1st cavity and do the same for the 4th to get the 2 widths. Naturally the cavities farthest away from the hinge pin will have a wider shallower arc. Use a piece of steel the correct thickness of the shoulder bolts, and os suitable outside dimentions.

I setup the piece of steel on a rotary table with a dead center in place. Bring the quill of the milling machine down with a deadcenter in it, and bring it to 0-0 with the center in the rotary table. Then crank away from it on the X axis the distance you recorded from the handle's hinge pin CL. Clamp the workpiece down to the rotary table. Crank the mill table off on the Y axis the distance from the centerline (which would be the block's parting line) to the mark for one of the shouldered bolts.

Lower the quill having a suitable end cutting endmill in place and plunge cut through the workpiece. Lock the quill and rotate the rotary table the correct number of degrees to mill the curved slot required. Do this at each one of the 4 positions for slots for the shouldered bolts.

D&T the blocks for the bolts then put thin washers under the heads, so you can securely clamp the slotted plate to the bottom of the blocks. Place the blocks in a fixture on the lathe's faceplate or setup in a 4 jaw chuck. The cavity or top exposed. Indicate each cavity in turn and bore down through the blocks and the hollowpoint plate.

At least that's how I'd do it. There are a couple other things I think should be done, but that's the basics of it.

.................Buckshot