Lee Pro 4-20 bottom pour freeze

[Jumping Frog]

RE: Lee Pro 4-20 pot

If I am pouring in the 600-650 range, I like the bullets better but the bottom pour spout keeps freezing on me. I have one of those extended nose fireplace lighters that I'll heat the bottom black nozzle until it starts pouring again, but I cannot keep it consistently pouring due to pauses related to cutting the sprue and emptying the mold.

If I am pouring in the 725-775 range, the bottom pour spout works just fine, but I don't like the bullets as well.

Any suggestions?

[lwknight]

I have to keep my pot to about 650 to avoid freeze up. Also, it cannot stand much breeze on it. In case you had a fan blowing directly. Sometimes I get a freeze up when adding ingots till it gets to about 660 for a few minutes. I actually run the temp at 660.

[Shiloh]

Each pot will vary a little. 660 is the low end of where mine will flow. After bringing it up to about 725 or so, it'll work there by bringing it back down. The mold needs to be good and warm to get really good boolits there.

Shiloh

[RobS]

I have to keep my pot to about 650 to avoid freeze up. Also, it cannot stand much breeze on it. In case you had a fan blowing directly. Sometimes I get a freeze up when adding ingots till it gets to about 660 for a few minutes. I actually run the temp at 660.


Same experience here, but too speed the process up I stir the pot with a spoon every once in a while. It helps, as I figure it brings the pot to a consistent temp and in turn it also brings the bottom of the pot's temperature up too.

[jsizemore]

Mr. Froggy, I cast in the 625-675deg F range. I mostly use 4C molds. Before I start pouring, I will start a stream before I start filling cavities. If the mold is hot and is slow to freeze, I pour a 2 second stream to keep the spout from freezing up. Those streams solidify on contact with the base and I put those and my last cast sprue back in the pot as I go. Also that drip everyone complains about helps to drag heat through the spout to help it from freezing. If it be dripping, we be pouring.

[lwknight]

We have not mentioned the alloy. If you are using wheelweights without added tin your melting temp may be 600 or more degrees. I use a minimum of 2% and get a totally liquid melt at 560. This would make a huge difference in what it takes to keep the spout flowing. well... 40 degrees anyway.

[Jumping Frog]

Before I start pouring, I will start a stream before I start filling cavities. If the mold is hot and is slow to freeze, I pour a 2 second stream to keep the spout from freezing up. Those streams solidify on contact with the base and I put those and my last cast sprue back in the pot as I go.
I've gone through that rigmarole as well. Pour the mold. Break the sprue while counting to 3 and pour a quick stream. Open the mold while counting to 3 and pour a quick stream. Shake the mold while counting to 3 and pour a quick stream. Close the mold while counting to 3 and pour a quick stream. Place the mold under and pour it. Repeat. It is an incredible hassle and sooner or later, it is still freezing on me. Plus, all the extra solidified streams go back into the pot further dropping the temp.

BTW, I was using WW + tin.

Sounds like I'll just need to either add a heating element to the pour spout or resign myself to running at a higher temp.

-bob

[Edubya]

The stirring makes sense. Heat goes up and the cooler molten will go down where the spout is.
EW

[Springfield]

So what happens when you run the higher temps that you don't like? Poor fillout, frosting,..?

[lwknight]

Jumpy,
I'm starting to think that your thermemeter needs recalibrating.
Just turn up the heat till things work right.
And compare your temperature ascertainment method to another reference.

[montana_charlie]

If I am pouring in the 600-650 range, I like the bullets better but the bottom pour spout keeps freezing on me.

If I am pouring in the 725-775 range, the bottom pour spout works just fine, but I don't like the bullets as well.

Any suggestions?
Try pouring in the higher temperature range (to keep the spout flowing) but change your rhythm so our mould runs at a slightly cooler temperature.

See if you like those bullets as well as the ones poured with 650 degree metal.

CM

[Jumping Frog]

For the people asking about the cooler temps, I have found that the boolits drop slightly larger at the lower temp (averages 0.0007" larger dia.) and look better. One of my molds is just on the edge where that extra size helps.

[Jumping Frog]

I'm starting to think that your thermemeter needs recalibrating.
Quite possible. It's a Lyman thermometer, and it seems most of the Lyman stuff I've ever bought has had problems -- more problems than my Lee equipment, actually.

[TAWILDCATT]

the pot is telling you it needs more heat but you dont seem to be listening.no matter how you cut it you do need more heat.if you insist you want to cast at lower heat,then dont complain.I may sound nasty but you have to learn to observe what the molds and tools tell you.I have been casting since 1937 and am still learning.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

+1 what TAWildcatt said. I suggest you read the article here called "Doing the BruceB." Hotter lead doesn't mean bad bullets.

If you need a larger bullet, I would beagle the mold.

Regards,

Dave

[Recluse]

With the exception of a few TL boolits, I worry more about mould temperature than I do alloy/furnace temperature.

I keep a folded (literally) soaking wet rag on a ceramic tile to the left and below my furnace. Every second or third cast, I set the base of the mould on the rag to bleed off excess temperature. A quick turn over cools the sprue plate as well.

This gives me the boolits I want.

I cast with both the Lee bottom pour and a Pro Melt and have the same issues at lower temperatures. For rifle boolits, I simply ladle cast, but you gotta be fast.

:coffee:

[lwknight]

No 2 ways about it. You have to run the pot hot enough to keep the spout pouring.
I found that only a little air blowing on the spout will make it hard to keep flowing.

[Tazman1602]

the pot is telling you it needs more heat but you dont seem to be listening.no matter how you cut it you do need more heat.if you insist you want to cast at lower heat,then dont complain.I may sound nasty but you have to learn to observe what the molds and tools tell you.I have been casting since 1937 and am still learning.

Agreed -- to the original poster don't take offense. I am probably the last of the breed. I'm a youngster here, only 51, but when I started working we were taught to "feel" things. I can't explain that but you OLD boys know what I'm talking about.

When I was racing cars we didn't have any scopes to deal with ignition problems, we had to "feel" for them.

Bullet casting is NO different. You have to get a "feel" for what is a good bullet and what is NOT if you're going to use Lee equipment -- and I LIKE Lee equipment.

If your bullets are not coming out right, change ONE thing at a time. Change your casting technique, change the temperature, change the rate at which you pour, FEEL what the metal is telling you.

I know I sound "sappy" and "b*tchy" and "old" but I'm not. I can go out and spend $1000 on the Acme Super Caster Smelter that never fails or I can spend $70 on a Lee 20# pot and learn what IT likes to cast bullets at. I mean NO offense by this post and will help ALL I can. I just recieved a Lee 20# bottom pour for CHRISTMAS and wifey let me use it early.

Out of probably 300 bullets I cast, I have maybe 80 usable bullets...................

............but I'm learning from these old boys here...............

just my .02 cents worth..........

Art