Grip Material???

[2ndAmendmentNut]

I want to fool around and try to make a custom grip for my GP100. I am wondering if anybody here knows of a suitable material. I am thinking of some sort of high strength plastic that I would be able melt and cast into a grip fitted to my hands.

Ideas and advice will be most appreciated.

[docone31]

Have you considered making an ornate frame, and vulcanizing rubber, either silicone, or rubber?
You would need to make a two part mold.

[Bullshop Junior]

Like this?

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr305/bullshopjunior/MY%20GUNS/IMG_0808.jpg

That's moose antler.
I have some more if you are interested.

[mellonhead]

Bullshop Junior, how much for some of that moose antler if you have plenty? I just need enough to make a set of grips for my Ruger. Thanks.

Toby

[c3d4b2]

I do not have a lot of detail, but this may be a thought starter.....

We have mold makers at work that cast with plastic materials. They make a pattern and then make a silicon mold around the pattern. They then mix up the plastic material (no heat involved), pour it in the mold and then let the part cure. I think they may pull a vacuum on the mold to remove air bubbles.

[docone31]

That is a nice looking set of grips!
Well done.

[peter nap]

I do not have a lot of detail, but this may be a thought starter.....

We have mold makers at work that cast with plastic materials. They make a pattern and then make a silicon mold around the pattern. They then mix up the plastic material (no heat involved), pour it in the mold and then let the part cure. I think they may pull a vacuum on the mold to remove air bubbles.

MEK Methel Ethel Ketone (Spelling) is a solvent for many plastics. I've used it several times to liquefy a piece of plastic to pour in a mold.

Like most things, it's not especially good for you so take normal precautions.

[yondering]

There was a guy selling grip material at the gunshow a while back, that may be what you're looking for. It was a sheet of plastic, about 1/4" thick, in whatever color you want. The plastic was dipped in boiling water for a minute or two, then wrapped around the grip of your gun. While it's still soft you squeeze the grip like you would normally hold the gun, so the plastic molds to the shape of your hand. It hardened up in a few minutes, and could be cut or filed to remove exess material. Evidently it was re-usable too.
Problem is, I couldn't tell you what the company name was. They had a website though.

[peter nap]

There was a guy selling grip material at the gunshow a while back, that may be what you're looking for. It was a sheet of plastic, about 1/4" thick, in whatever color you want. The plastic was dipped in boiling water for a minute or two, then wrapped around the grip of your gun. While it's still soft you squeeze the grip like you would normally hold the gun, so the plastic molds to the shape of your hand. It hardened up in a few minutes, and could be cut or filed to remove exess material. Evidently it was re-usable too.
Problem is, I couldn't tell you what the company name was. They had a website though.

That was probably Kydex.
I use it to make molded sheaths for Kayaking knives.

[peter nap]

Micarta might be your best bet. It's one of the most durable and very attractive composite materials around.

You can make it at home if you're a mind to, but I usually just buy a sheet large enough for the handle I'm doing.

[yondering]

That was probably Kydex.
I use it to make molded sheaths for Kayaking knives.

No, much lower "softening point" (my own made up term) than Kydex. You could mold this stuff with your bare hands without being burned. It was soft enough at that temp to squeeze through your fingers.
Kydex is cool stuff though.

[Storydude]

Cast a set outta Zinc.

[Dutchman]

Delrin/Acetal is about one tough synthetic that's not too far below aluminum in versatility and strength. Black/white and colors. Not hard to work. Cheap, too, for this kind of thing.


Dutch

[2ndAmendmentNut]

There was a guy selling grip material at the gunshow a while back, that may be what you're looking for. It was a sheet of plastic, about 1/4" thick, in whatever color you want. The plastic was dipped in boiling water for a minute or two, then wrapped around the grip of your gun. While it's still soft you squeeze the grip like you would normally hold the gun, so the plastic molds to the shape of your hand. It hardened up in a few minutes, and could be cut or filed to remove exess material. Evidently it was re-usable too.
Problem is, I couldn't tell you what the company name was. They had a website though.


No, much lower "softening point" (my own made up term) than Kydex. You could mold this stuff with your bare hands without being burned. It was soft enough at that temp to squeeze through your fingers.
Kydex is cool stuff though.

Wow, that sounds almost perfect. I will try a google search, but if anyone has more info on this product please post it.

[bohica2xo]

"almost perfect" Yep. Almost. The big problem with any thermoplastic that has a heat distortion temperature ("softening point") that low, is that it will not hold it's shape very well.

If it is workable at temperatures you can touch for long periods of time, you would have a puddle of the material in the trunk of a car in the summertime.

If you really want a grip assembly that is moulded to your individual hand, what you need is a thermosetting plastic. Thermosetting plastic "cures" or changes state in a manner that is not reversed by re-heating.

The good news is there is a product on the market that will fill this need. Available in colors, sold under several names - Fimo, Sculpy, and others. Any Arts & Crafts type stores should have some. Fimo's black product makes very good small moulded parts from temporary tools - the parts look just like original Colt hard rubber grip material...

A custom moulded grip should fit the hand well, but be sure to position the grip on the weapon carefully. Grip the gun to form the material, but make sure the sights are on the target when you do so - I recomend a sandbag, chair & table. Use a level to put a horizontal tape line on the wall across the room. Make sure you are not canting or twisting, and get the most comfortable grip.

The polymer clays "cure" at about 250f. 15 minutes per 1/4" of material. If the gun frame is metal, you can put the whole thing in the oven. (yes I have done this).

Once cured, you can sand / polish / stipple / drill / tap /etc. If you decide you want to add material, the stuff bonds to already cured material. It does not bond to anything else very well. Once a part is baked, it can be baked again at the same temperature without harm.

Hope this helps.

B.