Problem with Lube/sizer

[sst04]

I have a Lyman 4500 lube sizer. Im trying to lube and size some 40s&w boolits I made yesterday.

The mold I have is the Lee 2-Cavity Bullet Mold 401-175-TC 40 S&W (401 Diameter) 175 Grain Truncated Cone

The Die I have for the sizer is the Lyman H&I Sizing die .401

The top punch I have is a RCBS #460

The problem I am having is that the boolit will not go down in the die far enough for the lube groove in the boolit to reach the holes in the die.

The lube just goes up under the boolit, I have adjusted it but that is as far as the top punch will push the boolit(top punch will hit die.

Do I just have the wrong top punch, When I ordered it I thought this was the one I needed.

[Bullshop]

There is a depth adjuster on the under side of the press. Back it down until you get the right depth then re lock the lock ring.
If that is not the problem your TP may be too large for the die so is bottoming out on top of the die.
When you bring the ram down look to see if the TP is contacting the die. Of yes you need a smaller diameter TP.
BIC/BS

[thebigmac]

I'M SAYING THIS FROM MEMORY, BUT ISN'T THERE AN ADJUSTING SCREW UNDER THE SIZING DIE ??? IT'S A ROUND THREADED TUBE WITH A NUT AT THE TOP (OR BOTTOM). ADJUSTING THIS IS TO ALLOW THE BOOLIT TO GO FARTHER INTO THE SIZER DIE. TRY AND LET ME KNOW. I HAVE'NT USED A LYMAN SIZER FOR QUITE A FEW YEARS, BUT I STILL HAVE AN OLDER MODEL 45. IT WORKS THAT WAY.. Mac

[wallenba]

Bullshop is right, my #460 TP is .445 in diameter, It won't go far enough. You need a Lyman # 43 TP.
See this page http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/bullet-casting/mould-details.php?entryID=15 also rcbs numbers http://www.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/staticpages/charts/rcbs_top_punches.htm
and on the bottom of this page is the link to castpics that has a sidebar with a compiled list of top punches.

[sst04]

There is an adjustment, I believe I have it adjusted right. I can push the inside part of the die below the first lube hole in the die.

I went and did a little measuring and the boolit is definately not going down far enough, even when I back the adjustment all the way off.

The top punch is hitting the die.

[sst04]

:oops:Thanks Guys,

Its always something:groner:


ETA: How in the world did I think it was supposed to work when it would not even go in the die?:oops:

[wallenba]

:oops:Thanks Guys,

Its always something:groner:


ETA: How in the world did I think it was supposed to work when it would not even go in the die?:oops:

Sometimes you can't see the forest because all the trees are in the way. It happens.

[Bullshop Junior]

That kind of stuff happens all the time.
You know how long I tried to figure that out the first time it happened to me?

[Tom W.]

Just take an old top punch and fill it with hot glue. It will work for a long time and won't be a permanent change. I did so with one I had because it wouldn't push my bullet deep enough to fill both loob grooves.



I learned that from Buckshot, I believe..

[Recluse]

:oops:Thanks Guys,

Its always something:groner:


ETA: How in the world did I think it was supposed to work when it would not even go in the die?:oops:

You don't think that hasn't happened to most of US around here? :)

Tom's tip on the hot glue gun and a top punch is dead-on. For truncated cone and especially SWC or other boolits with flat meplats, I use a top-punch that will go down into any dizing die I have--and I fill the top-punch in with either JB Weld or any other two-part epoxy so that it has an even, flat surface.

Another tip: If/when you start casting round-nose boolits, you can do the same thing with the JB Weld, two-part expoxies or hot glue guns. BUT, spray some lubricant on the boolit nose, set it in the sizing die, then lower the handle just enough to set the nose of the boolit in the top punch with the glue/exposy in it. Let it sit overnight, and voila: Custom top-punch for YOUR particular boolit mould.

:coffee:

[JIMinPHX]

I've turned down the OD of a few top punches on my lathe because of problems just like that in the past. I've also used the hot glue trick. You can substitute candle wax for the hot glue in some cases too, depending on how well the shape of the top punch supports the wax in the cavity.

You could also cross drill some lube holes higher up on the sizing die. I've done that before too. The rub there, is that you need to make sure that you don't leave any burrs on the inside of the bore, or else you will scar up every boolit that you pass through there.

[beagle]

Chuck the TP in an electric drill and use a file to turn a few thou off the outside of the TP. It will save waiting for a week or so on Lyman./beagle

[StarMetal]

beagle has it right, turn the top punch down some so it can enter the sizer die. Drilling holes in some dies require a very very good drill bit as some of them are extremely hard. As mentioned the burrs inside will definitely require some attention. This is one reason I prefer the Lyman dies with two rows or more of hole rather then RCBS's on row.

Joe

[A J]

Fast and dirty: Take a quarter inch hex head bolt and chuck it up in a drill and round off the head until it goes in the die. Since you're sizing a flat head bullet you really don't need a fitted punch. Your bolt will give you infinite depth adjustment. It's all I ever used untill I got a Star.

A J