New Siler lock not very sparky

[richbug]

I purchased a new Large Siler lock from TOTW about a year ago. I finally finished assembling the rifle today. The issue I am having is lack of sparks into the pan. It makes some spark, but not as many as my 1803 Harpers Ferry rifle. The ones it does make seem to be directed towards the frizzen hinge. Maybe one out of 2 times it will fire.

I tried an assortment of different flints, in different positions.

Question is, has anyone had to reharden the frizzen on a new Chambers lock. I still have a pound of Kasenit here from the 1803 tune up, just was hoping I was on the right track.

The springs seem plenty strong, but the cock/flint doesn't have as much free travel before striking the frizzen as my 1803 does. This makes it seem slower.

[northmn]

Silers usually are excellent sparkers. I have had to bend the hammer to get sparks to fall into the pan on some locks. Heat cherry red. The flint when the hammer is fully down should be pointed at the front of the pan (the powder slot) The instructions included in the Siler Lock kit I have state to harden the frizzen to the red non-magnetized state adn swish it around in oil for 30 seconds for a quench. Many like Automatic Trans fluid for quenching. Temper in an oven at 375 for an hour. Kasenit would only be needed if the frizzen were not tempering correctly. Check and see if it is a little soft and files. Another trick with the Siler is to widen the pan so that it has a larger area for the sparks to hit as in an English lock. I have used a Dremmel and a small grinder or sander for this. The Siler should work very reliably. On occasion I have seen flintlocks kind of work in and spark better after a little use. One other problem could be that it is too hard. You could first try putting it inthe oven for the 375 and an hour first. As to throw length, it should be faster than a HF lock. Good luck.

Northmn

[richbug]

I can cut it relatively easily with a file. I guess I will get out the torches tomorrow.

The flint is pointed in the right place, will try that pan widening trick.

[waksupi]

Rich, I would call Jim Chambers, and talk to him, if it was one he did. If there is a problem with it, you can most likely send it to him for whatever care it needs, and have it back in a weeks time. Jim's locks should be good 'n sparky when you get them.

[richbug]

Rich, I would call Jim Chambers, and talk to him, if it was one he did. If there is a problem with it, you can most likely send it to him for whatever care it needs, and have it back in a weeks time. Jim's locks should be good 'n sparky when you get them.

It was advertised by Track of the Wolf as a Chambers lock, though it was not the "Deluxe" model. I was hoping to hunt with it on Monday. I need to fix it myself if that is going to happen.


I did find a saw cut flint in my junk box that seems to spark well in it which seems pretty counter intuitive. Saw cut flints never spark well for me. The Rich Pierce and English flints have stopped sparking altogether now, almost like I wore through a thin case hardening layer(the Pierce flints actually stall the cock just before the frizzen snaps open).

I am pretty sure it is the frizzen, and can make it work.

[richbug]

I rehardened the frizzen today. It improved some. Then I started playing with how the flint is positioned. I am getting great spark if the flint hits the frizzen at the very top of the frizzen. I am going to go with that for now.

[northmn]

Usually I find if I have to place the flint upside down, I can bend the hammer a little to get them to work the normal way. Whether that is needed? Good luck with the gun. When you harden remember to hold on the screw hole in the frizzen should you see a need to do so again.

Northmn