"The Cruise Missle"

[48bpcr]

Hi all,
Just joined a while ago. I've been a lurker for years. Ever since the old Shooters site closed as a matter o fact.
I've been casting for about 10 or so years now. Mostly those big heavy 45 cal boolits for BPCR shooting.
But I have this other weakness. Swedish Mausers.

An afliction nearly as bad as the Flame, Smoke, Stink that BPCR rifles provide except they use that other powder.

Mid-South is a company I buy from, nice folks. They have the "vaunted" 170 grain lee mould in stock so I bought one, along with a .329 mould for for my
M-95's.

I have to say, that is one L O N G boolit! Hard to cast as well. My reject rate was 50%. Seems like the melt cools off to fast flowing down into that long skinney mould. They look cool though!

I have 5 different Swedish Mausers from a 1899 Obie to a 1917 Gustav. My Fav is a 1901 FSR rifle on a Gustav reciver. I can't wait to try it with cast Cruise Missles.
I should post some pics of the various family's I own. Swiss, Swedish, USA, Russian, Hungarian, and on it goes.
I think when I load for this "Cruise Missle" I'll use a slow Smokeless powder.
H1000 comes to mind or 4350. I think I'm gonna drive it hard and this will be different for me. Most times my cast stuff goes less than 1200FPS.
I figure SPG might not be the best lube so another sizer might be needed as I want to start casting for my Krag and my Springfields. I Hate cleaning old lube out of them. That way I can have one for my BPCR stuff and another for my "white powder" guns.
So when you guys want to drive lead fast, what are you using for lubes? I've made my own many times with good results. I just started using SPG cause I'm lazy :-)

45BPCR

[jbc]

http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/index.html I use the b.a.c. but you might also want to try the carnuba red or 2500+ . He is a vendor sponsor of this site and you can't beat his quality or prices.

[45-70 Chevroner]

On another Forum someone said do not use SPG with smokeless powder as it makes a big mess.

[1Shirt]

Will be interested in your results with the Swed. Please post!
1Shirt!:coffeecom

[Buckshot]

...............48bpcr glad you decided to come in out of the cold :-) Have you slugged the barrel on your M95? Lee made that die for the 8x56R because they apparently heard someone say that's what the groove is supposed to be. If I've ever seen where someone has said the groove of their M95 had been .329" or tighter I've forgotten. On the other hand, those mentioning grooves of .330" to .335" have been legion. Seems the bell curve peaks at about .332". Bores are generally consistent at .316", givertake.

In addition throat OD's go from ample to Holy Cow! Leade's can also be longish.

http://www.fototime.com/B28CF43324320EC/standard.jpg

This boolit was designed for the M95. I have 2 of the carbines. An M95 made as a carbine and a M95/31 that was re-arsenaled from a rifle. The above photo was taken after chambering in the M95/31. The nose where it 'just' touched the lands is .320". There is one drive band and the GC inside the caseneck. This carbine has a .334" throat.

The M95 will NOT engrave the slug at this length and it has a throat that will swallow a slug sized .338". So these beasts may vary quite a bit, one from another. As casters we can sometimes get around these things, just as we sometimes have to with other cartridges like the 8x57 which were VERY widely distributed and made by widely seperated manufacturers over 50 years. The oddity of the 8x56R is that they were made only in the Austro-Hungarian Empire (made in both Austria and Hungary) which was supposed ot have been one country, and supposed to have all shot the same cartridge. Might kind of expect that if it was produced by 4-5 different countries.

................Buckshot

[XWrench3]

something for you to try is dipping the aluminum mold right into the molten lead. that will warm up the entire mold all the way through. in fact, i was having trouble with one (i do not remember which) lee mold, and i kept in in the molten lead so long, the bullet remelted and became liquid. now that, is a hot mold! anyway, i took it out and just held onto it for a few minutes and let it air cool so the boolit hardned. i let the mold cool off (wide open) for another minute or so after i dumped the re-melt, and just kept casting. they ended up being the best boolit i had casted to that point.