Kroil As A Gun/Bore Cleaner?

[philthephlier]

I think I've read that some use it as a cleaning solvent for their guns. Pros & cons?

[lwknight]

At least there is nothing in it that could hurt anything.
Kroil is one of the very few iols that can be used in a reactor building of a nuke around stainless and inconell tubing and piping.
And it smells good.

[Cactus Farmer]

But not as good as the "Old Hoppes #9"

Kroil is the best factory penatrating oil I've found,althouogh I've heard about ATF and acatone I've never tried it as Kroil has gotten everything I ever needed apart.
It gets lead out of BPCR bores too. And the factory service is great even if they send you some junk mail. I love my Kroiler!

[lwknight]

Severe bore leading
Severe bore leading at lower (below 1400-1600 fps) velocities is caused by shooting a bullet too small for the bore of the rifle.
If, after eight to ten patches the next tight patch shows much black or grey color, the bore is probably leaded.
Lead can be easily taken out of the barrel with "Lead Away" patches made by "Kleen Bore" Inc., or with 000 steel wool on an undersize brush. (We all have used steel wool in the past, before "Lead Away" patches, we just don't admit it.)
Some shooters report that strands from a "Chore Boy" pan-cleaning pad, wrapped on a brush, will easily remove lead. The "Chore Boy" pad is kind of a brass Brillo pad.
A brush will never remove lead from a rifle barrel, but will remove lead from revolver barrels. I wonder why?
No bore cleaner that I have used will take the lead out of a rifle barrel by dissolving it.

After the lead is out, tight patches will come out of the bore CLEAN, just like they
looked when they went in. Now push a dry patch through the barrel, followed by an oiled patch.

If you then push a bronze brush with Kroil or Marvel Mystery Oil or paint thinner through the barrel, followed with a patch, then there will be black stuff on the patch. Continued brushing and patching, ten strokes of the brush followed by a clean patch, will produce black stuff on the patch for five or six patches before a clean patch results. This gets some stuff out of the barrel, but this step is not necessary to protect the barrel and maintain accuracy most of the time. I don't know what this black stuff is, and I don't worry about it. Less brushing is better, less cleaning is better, so I avoid this step. My goal is a clean tight patch through the bore.
I get good results with a Nynex = plastic brush.

Avoid bronze brushing with patent bore cleaners
Patent bore cleaners are formulated to remove bullet jacket metal from rifle bores. Using a brass brush and brushing the bore of a lead bullet rifle with, for instance, Hoppes #9, and then pushing a patch through the bore, will get you a patch with black stuff on it. Push a few more patches through until clean patches come out. Brush again with Hoppes, push a patch through, and you get black stuff on the patch. The Hoppes #9, or any of the patent bore cleaners, eats the bronze brush, making the black stuff. This always happens, and it happens forever, as long as you repeat the process. To prove to yourself that the patent bore cleaner is eating the brass brush and making the black stuff, brush and patch the bore with paint thinner and you'll shortly get clean patches.


Here is the link. You have to join the group to get the book files.
http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/CB-BOOK/files/CAST%20BULLETS%20FOR%20BEGINNER%20AND%20EXPERT/
There is already a stickie on this as well.

[Tom W.]

I use Kroil in addition to and after using the Outers foaming bore cleaner and Hoppes #9. It may be overkill, but I like clean bores.

[NuJudge]

I frequently leave it in the bore of a rifle I will shoot soon. It seems to not alter point of impact.

[Wally]

I use WD-40 to clean & lubricate all my guns. It is similiar to Kroil. These oils are great solvents and will prevent rust/corrosion. One can also use penetrating oil and even ATF fluid..I have found no real difference with any of them--they all work and do a good job IMHO.

[Rocky Raab]

An awful lot of guys mix Kroil in various proportions into their regular bore cleaner. Kroil and Shooter's Choice is very popular. Mix a very small amount in a separate container first, to make sure there is no adverse reaction.

[stubshaft]

I use a nylon brush and work Kroil through the bore. I follow this with a tight patch soaked in Kroil. In leaded bores this procedure has not failed me.

[fredj338]

Severe bore leading
Severe bore leading at lower (below 1400-1600 fps) velocities is caused by shooting a bullet too small for the bore of the rifle.
If, after eight to ten patches the next tight patch shows much black or grey color, the bore is probably leaded.
Lead can be easily taken out of the barrel with "Lead Away" patches made by "Kleen Bore" Inc., or with 000 steel wool on an undersize brush. (We all have used steel wool in the past, before "Lead Away" patches, we just don't admit it.)
Some shooters report that strands from a "Chore Boy" pan-cleaning pad, wrapped on a brush, will easily remove lead. The "Chore Boy" pad is kind of a brass Brillo pad.
There is already a stickie on this as well.
Well I have to admit I have NEVER used steel wool in any barrel for cleaning. It just doesn't seem the right thing to do. Lead wipe away cloths or the Chorboy work great w/ little worry about damaging the bbl. I also use Kroil for first patching, then after a copper cleaner as a final coating left in the bbl.

[fredj338]

I use WD-40 to clean & lubricate all my guns. It is similiar to Kroil. These oils are great solvents and will prevent rust/corrosion. One can also use penetrating oil and even ATF fluid..I have found no real difference with any of them--they all work and do a good job IMHO.

I would suggest you NOT use WD40 for general cleaning & lubricating. It tends to dry & build up over time causing a gummy film. I wipe off fingerpirnts w/ it, but there are many better lubricants for cleaning & lubricating moving parts.

[blaster]

I've been using kroil in the bore lately. Honestly, I don't see much difference between kroil, clp, rbc, remoil, break free, hoppes #9, or wd40. They all seem to pick the stuff you scrub loose with a brush or chore boy fine.

[montana_charlie]

I use Kroil to loosen lead deposits in a bore, and as (sort of) an 'oily solvent' to wipe down the surfaces of the steel parts. It removes fingerprints, dust, greases, heavier oils, and nicotine patina.

But, I don't consider any 'penetrating oil' to be in the same class as those oils intended for lubrication of moving parts...or oils that form rust prevention coatings. I don't consider it to be any good at all as a 'lubricant'. There are other materials designed for that.

WD-40 is designed to get between water and steel to make the water run off. It was never intended to be a lubricant, and it's penetrating ability is (I think) mostly 'accidental'...although it does it rather well. It does have some lubricating capability, but it has little 'staying power' if the parts in question need real protection from friction.

I use a light machine oil to lube small electric motors, but because it's so 'handy', I did start using WD-40 for that...for a while.
I found this as a comparison...

A motor lubed with oil (when it needs another shot) will start to sound 'dry'. If not lubricated, it will begin to wear out, and get too 'loose' to operate well.

Once it has been lubed with DW-40, a motor will need attention more often (forever)...and you know another shot is needed when it starts to squeal.
If you delay, it simply freezes up and burns out.

So, with Kroil to 'penetrate' leading, and real oils to lubricate and rustproof, I no longer use WD-40 on guns, at all...and I wouldn't trust Kroil for any long-term rust protection.

CM

[Wally]

Well I have to admit I have NEVER used steel wool in any barrel for cleaning. It just doesn't seem the right thing to do. Lead wipe away cloths or the Chorboy work great w/ little worry about damaging the bbl. I also use Kroil for first patching, then after a copper cleaner as a final coating left in the bbl.

The lead wipe away clothes have abrasives imbedded in them...

[GRid.1569]

I've used Kroil in a Marlin 1894 and it sure cuts through the crud that builds up...

Couple of patches and it really is squeeky clean... cuts through the powder residues at the crown like it wasn't there....

...but it does take a few shots to return or stabilise back to previous POI / POA....

[KCSO]

I got started with Kroil about 10 years ago after I ran out of #9 and I haven't looked back. It works for all cast as good as anyting I have ever used.

[Bigoledude]

In our refinery, Kroil was never used to lubricate POWERED equipment. Kroil's claim-to-fame was it's outstanding ability to penetrate into small places. Yes, it will dry up after a while. I don't know if it leaves a sticky film like WD-40 does.

Our "Lubrication Specialist" at Mobil Oil recommended Kroil for use on loosening nuts, bolts and studs. A mixture of Never-Seez and Kroil brushed onto valve stems kept the valves opening and closing with much less effort. Operators had Kroil stashed all over the units.

This same "Lubrication Specialist" explained that the Kroil molecule was much smaller than any oil and, also much smaller than the other penetrating-oils out there at the time (15 years ago). This is what makes Kroil so much more effective at loosening frozen or corroded nuts-n-bolts.

Now, some gun-folks say that Kroil can actually get between the barrel and leading. Some even claim Kroil can creep between copper fouling and the barrel. It seems pretty easy to prove. Use your favorite oil or penetrant until your patch comes clean. Run a patch or two of Kroil, let it set for a couple of minutes, run another patch and see if you get any more fouling out of your barrel.

Since I have not yet cast any bullets, I can't claim any lead-busting results for Kroil. And as for copper, I use a copper solvent, swab with Kroil and repeat until my patches come clean. My thinking is, the copper solvent is dissolving a little more space for the Kroil to creep into. Then I finish with a patch of lube/oil to prevent rusting in this humid environment of SE Louisiana.

Works for this old Cajun!

[plumber]

I love Kroil!! I use it to clean, dry patch, then oil with CLP. Kroil should not be used as a preservitive.