Dutchman
11-16-2009, 01:29 AM
Acquisition story:
Indianapolis gunshow about 2003. My friend Bubba'Theo was holding a long bayonet motioning for me to come over. He shows me a tag that says $105. I say "yeah, so". He says "no"... the rifle and bayonet.... $105. I couldn't get the money out fast enough. This was from a black plastic rifle dealer. This dude just had a mental lapse and put this on the table for $105 with the untouched matching # bayonet/scabbard. I filled out a 4473 so fast that guy didn't know what happened and we were gone. The rifle has stock dings from storage and handling but it appears to be an unissued rifle. Looked like it had fired 30 or 40 rds.
So, since by cruffler credo I'm obligated to keep this rifle until the end of time due to the unusual crufflercarp acquisition price, I installed a Dayton trigger as the stock trigger was the worst Mauser trigger I'd ever felt. Gritty like rough granite. I've not hardly shot it, maybe 30-40 more rounds. I'm at a point where I'm not liking barleycorn sights. Inverted Vee gets lost in the rear sight. This rifle has no accumulated metal stress, has a like-new 29" barrel and is tight as can be. You can handload 8x57mm to some impressive levels with j-projektilen. But will it shoot cast? I dunno yet.
I did this LER insert last night and tonight impulsively. Hadn't really planned on doing it now but I want to shoot it and I want to know how good it'll shoot so it needs a scope to do that
(I need a scope to do that).
http://images54.fotki.com/v563/photos/2/28344/6806565/DSCF0442x-vi.jpg
http://images54.fotki.com/v555/photos/2/28344/6806565/DSCF0427x-vi.jpg
The rear sight base is identical to the 1908 Brazilian Mauser by DWM. Except... the hole through the base on the 1908 is .161" and on the Persian is .157". This means I can't use the same mount for both rifles. And the distance between the leaf holes is .372" on the 1908 and .375" on the Persian. Close enough to experiment more if I use M4 buttonhead screws instead of the pin. The buttonhead screws will alow a looser fit. The large pin requires a "perfect" fit.
http://images53.fotki.com/v425/photos/2/28344/6806565/DSCF0431x-vi.jpg
The insert before the holes were drilled & tapped. The rail is NcStar for the Marlin 336. Makes a very versatile mount at 4 3/4" long and gives plenty of ring position adjustment and eye relief adjustment for about any LER, EER or handgun scope.
The rail is attached to the insert with four 8-36 socket head screws and held down to the rifle with one 10-32 socket head screw and will include two M4x.7 buttonhead screws through the base holes into the insert. So far this has proven to be plenty strong and immovable on other rifles with this type of mount.
http://images30.fotki.com/v478/photos/2/28344/6806565/DSCF0487x-vi.jpg
I got this lower than I thought I could and still it looks like I can get another .050" lower. The limiting factor is the anchor which comes up on the underside of the insert. The insert is about .285" thick where the anchor comes up into it and the counterbore hole is .200" deep. I need that much thread to have adequate strength for the 10-32 socket head anchor screw.
I just got this scope. El Cheapo Supremo $30 + $8 shipping. UAG off fleabay. 2.5x20mm. 10" overall length and relatively light for a steel tube. I wanted to experiment with this type of scope for a couple other applications, one including the Swedish m/1889 rolling block sporter. Lens is crystal clear and surprisingly bright. Eye relief positioning is generous making positioning easy. I've not used a 2.5x scope but have a 3x28 on a Swede m/96 that's just fine. I can certainly have better target aquisition with this 2.5x than barleycorn sights.
http://images53.fotki.com/v425/photos/2/28344/6806565/DSCF0509x-vi.jpg
that is all
Dutch
Indianapolis gunshow about 2003. My friend Bubba'Theo was holding a long bayonet motioning for me to come over. He shows me a tag that says $105. I say "yeah, so". He says "no"... the rifle and bayonet.... $105. I couldn't get the money out fast enough. This was from a black plastic rifle dealer. This dude just had a mental lapse and put this on the table for $105 with the untouched matching # bayonet/scabbard. I filled out a 4473 so fast that guy didn't know what happened and we were gone. The rifle has stock dings from storage and handling but it appears to be an unissued rifle. Looked like it had fired 30 or 40 rds.
So, since by cruffler credo I'm obligated to keep this rifle until the end of time due to the unusual crufflercarp acquisition price, I installed a Dayton trigger as the stock trigger was the worst Mauser trigger I'd ever felt. Gritty like rough granite. I've not hardly shot it, maybe 30-40 more rounds. I'm at a point where I'm not liking barleycorn sights. Inverted Vee gets lost in the rear sight. This rifle has no accumulated metal stress, has a like-new 29" barrel and is tight as can be. You can handload 8x57mm to some impressive levels with j-projektilen. But will it shoot cast? I dunno yet.
I did this LER insert last night and tonight impulsively. Hadn't really planned on doing it now but I want to shoot it and I want to know how good it'll shoot so it needs a scope to do that
(I need a scope to do that).
http://images54.fotki.com/v563/photos/2/28344/6806565/DSCF0442x-vi.jpg
http://images54.fotki.com/v555/photos/2/28344/6806565/DSCF0427x-vi.jpg
The rear sight base is identical to the 1908 Brazilian Mauser by DWM. Except... the hole through the base on the 1908 is .161" and on the Persian is .157". This means I can't use the same mount for both rifles. And the distance between the leaf holes is .372" on the 1908 and .375" on the Persian. Close enough to experiment more if I use M4 buttonhead screws instead of the pin. The buttonhead screws will alow a looser fit. The large pin requires a "perfect" fit.
http://images53.fotki.com/v425/photos/2/28344/6806565/DSCF0431x-vi.jpg
The insert before the holes were drilled & tapped. The rail is NcStar for the Marlin 336. Makes a very versatile mount at 4 3/4" long and gives plenty of ring position adjustment and eye relief adjustment for about any LER, EER or handgun scope.
The rail is attached to the insert with four 8-36 socket head screws and held down to the rifle with one 10-32 socket head screw and will include two M4x.7 buttonhead screws through the base holes into the insert. So far this has proven to be plenty strong and immovable on other rifles with this type of mount.
http://images30.fotki.com/v478/photos/2/28344/6806565/DSCF0487x-vi.jpg
I got this lower than I thought I could and still it looks like I can get another .050" lower. The limiting factor is the anchor which comes up on the underside of the insert. The insert is about .285" thick where the anchor comes up into it and the counterbore hole is .200" deep. I need that much thread to have adequate strength for the 10-32 socket head anchor screw.
I just got this scope. El Cheapo Supremo $30 + $8 shipping. UAG off fleabay. 2.5x20mm. 10" overall length and relatively light for a steel tube. I wanted to experiment with this type of scope for a couple other applications, one including the Swedish m/1889 rolling block sporter. Lens is crystal clear and surprisingly bright. Eye relief positioning is generous making positioning easy. I've not used a 2.5x scope but have a 3x28 on a Swede m/96 that's just fine. I can certainly have better target aquisition with this 2.5x than barleycorn sights.
http://images53.fotki.com/v425/photos/2/28344/6806565/DSCF0509x-vi.jpg
that is all
Dutch