Lead buildup on 6 cavity Lee

[FISH4BUGS]

As discussed earlier on my Group Buy 6 cavity 358156 PB Lee thread, this mould casts well. However, I began to notice some minor flashing on the base of the bullets, and determined that there is a bit of lead buildup between on the top of the mould between the mould and the sprue plate. It is on the mould top, and it would appear that is is keeping the sprue plate just barely away from the top of the mould, allowing the bases to have just a bit of flashing.
I would think that when I run them through the Star sizer it will shear the flashing off, or just swage it down. However, I would like to get rid of the lead buildup on the mould.
I thought the best way would be to take a propane torch and just heat up the lead smear until it melts, then wipe it off with a rag quickly. However, I wondered if this might affect the mould, like maybe warping it by heating it up only on one spot.
How can I get rid of this lead buildup safely and effectively?
Thanks to all (except one) that responded to the earlier post.

[cabezaverde]

This is one of the best tricks I have learned here. If it is blobs or flakes of lead, heat the mold and use the corner of a cold ingot to push the blobs or flakes off the mold top.

[TAWILDCATT]

I believe that is what bullplate is for it prevents this.I must be one lucky dude because I have not had any problems with my 6 cavity molds and I just got another.that makes 9.not to count the other 20.

[mooman76]

Yes Bullplate helps to keep this down allot. The best way is to remove it when finishing up making you bullets while the mould is still hot. I cleans off fairly easy. I have heard of many methods that work. Wiping off with a cold ingot, a wooden stick or a leather glove. I brush mine with a small brass brush very lightly. You could heat your mould just like you do when you preheat it or just wait until next time you need to use it and claean it as you preheat.

[dromia]

I use the propane torch on a hot mould dipped in the melt, if the mould is hot then it doesn't take much use of the torch for the lead to "ball up" and then I wipe it off with a "Q" tip.

Ensuring that the mould is fully closed each cast ensures that there is no lead leakage 'tween the mould halves.

[FISH4BUGS]

I used the propane torch method and wiped it off with a rag. It works, but I noticed something interesting: it takes a heck of along time to melt the lead. I would have thought that it would take a few seconds - it was more like 2+ minutes of direct flame before the lead melted..
I guess it must be one of the characteristics of aluminum. Probably couldn't get the entire area hot quickly enough.
But it worked.

[Bullshop Junior]

Get it clean, and then use Bull-Plate, and it won't happen again....well should not any way.

[Crash_Corrigan]

Your sprue may not be true! You might want to remove the sprue plate and with a piece of wet/dry sandpaper on a flat piece of glass and with a portion of water on the paper smooth out the hills and valleys in the sprue plate.

When I start to get that dreaded lead on top of the spru I reapply Bullshop Sprue Plate lube and if that does not get the job done.....go to the glass plate and a gentle smoothing of the underside of the sprue plate itself.

If you have not yet drilled and tapped a set screw for the sprue plate screw then you might also do this little chore as it will eventually loosen up and then strip the hole anyway. I have over 15 different Lee 6 bangers and they all have been used heavily and Lee mented to some degree.

Properly Lee Mented and cared for these Lee molds will provide thousands of quality boolits for a small cost. They are lighter and cast faster than iron molds and do not require special preserveatives to prevent rust. Just do not bang on them or abuse them and they will outlast you.

[doubs43]

I used the propane torch method and wiped it off with a rag. It works, but I noticed something interesting: it takes a heck of along time to melt the lead. I would have thought that it would take a few seconds - it was more like 2+ minutes of direct flame before the lead melted..
I guess it must be one of the characteristics of aluminum. Probably couldn't get the entire area hot quickly enough.
But it worked.

If you left the sprue plate on the mold block then the mold block acted as a heatsink, bleeding off the heat from the plate. Remove the sprue plate from the mold block and it would heat up much more quickly.