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XRING363
05-06-2006, 03:39 PM
I aquired an rcbs mold that is new, or close to it. It drops a very nice 38 full wadcutter. 140 grain. My problem is the handles don't want to open the mold.
This mold just doesn't want to let go of the boolits! A little jigglin/wigglin or a rap on the handle pivot bolt and it works great. Boolits drop right out.
Any ideas??? Regards Jeff

swheeler
05-06-2006, 03:51 PM
XRing; sounds like you have a burr in one of the cavities. Look it over really good with a magnifier, you can take it out with a needle file,if you can't find a burr in it take one of the boolits cast with it and drill a small hole in the base, thread a screw into the hole and use it to polish the inside of the mold with comet cleanser. A cordless drill works good to spin the boolit. Wash the mold out real goodn and give it a light smoking before trying it again.

David R
05-06-2006, 05:51 PM
I read that the handles won't open. Perhaps the alignment pins are in too far. If your problem is mold sticking shut, then drive them back A LITTLE. If your problem is boolits sticking in the mold, then I am all wet.

David

buck1
05-06-2006, 06:02 PM
I read that the handles won't open. Perhaps the alignment pins are in too far. If your problem is mold sticking shut, then drive them back A LITTLE. If your problem is boolits sticking in the mold, then I am all wet.

David
YEP!
If your mold is sticking together whem empty, this is my advice also.
If it sticks only when full its a burr. FWIW..........Buck

Bass Ackward
05-07-2006, 05:05 AM
One more possibility, you could be molding off temperature from the zone of the mold. Meaning too hot or too cold. There will be a temp where life just seems to come together.

Usually with iron / steel molds that is too hot. If you aren't getting fillout, try adding a smidg of tin. Or try cooling the bottom of the mold on a damp sponge. Your goal is to reduce heat if that is what is needed.

When you get it working, record all conditions you did so you can refer to it the next time.

cherok9878
05-07-2006, 09:55 AM
To new to casting to give advise but can relate to the mould temp thing. Have a Lyman 311299 mould that will not release a shiney boolit without pounding hinge pin. Turn up the temperature untill the boolit is lightly frosty, drop every time.
Now I have to figure the Lee soupcan out. I have done everything to it but throw it across the shop. I have cleaned, deburred, smoked, polished and cussed. Boolits still hang although not as bad as in the beginning. Temp is 8 on a Lee bottom pour with WW only. You guys have any suggestions

XRING363
05-07-2006, 04:05 PM
Well fellas, thanks for all your suggestions! I inspected the mould with a glass and found some lead inside of the locating pin hole on the female side. It scraped right out. The two cavities look great also. Would not snag a q-tip. Keep in mind this mold was dropping good boolits easily early in the casting session. I had to turn down the temp later as the slugs where getting a little frosty. Its a Lee 20# bottom pour. turned down to7.5. I'm gonna experiment with temps tomorrow if I get time. Thanks again for the tips.
Regards, Jeff
BTW, its the mould not opening not boolits sticking in the mould. Once I get it open the slugs shake right out.

boogerred
05-08-2006, 12:52 AM
i wouldnt drive the pins in. if you have a vise,gently squeeze the pins in.use firm pressure on the vise handle and you can feel the pin break loose and begin to move.it doesnt take much.also you can use a countersink to break the sharp edge on the hole on the female half of the mould.

swheeler
05-08-2006, 03:49 PM
"This mold just doesn't want to let go of the boolits! A little jigglin/wigglin or a rap on the handle pivot bolt and it works great. Boolits drop right out.
Any ideas??? "Regards Jeff
Oops-guess I didn't understand- sorry!
Scot

XRING363
05-08-2006, 07:23 PM
The locating pins where sticking out about 15-20 thousandths further than the 148 gr wadcutter mold that I got with the 140. I pressed the pins in to aproximate the 148 but I doubt that was the problem. This mold has very sharp edges on the 5 drive bands. Seems like the slug/slugs, tips a little bit as soon as the mold starts to open and then gets jammed up in the oppsite half. I'm a little scared to try the spin-slug polishing that I've used on my Lee molds. I've had good results with my Lee molds but these 2 RCBS molds are my first dance with steel. Looks like I may have to get my feet wet!
Regards, Jeff

Leftoverdj
05-08-2006, 08:09 PM
I've been deburring moulds that stick bullets with an eraser. Typewriter eraser works best, but an ordinary pencil will do the job with a little more patience. I don't think it is possible to bugger a mould with this method.

Bucks Owin
05-08-2006, 08:22 PM
I got a used Lyman 35863 WC mould in the mail today and have the same problems. Gotta beat the hell out of the handle hinge pin to get the boolits (well, one of them) to drop. I'll use a needle file to deburr the parting line a little and scrub it really good with Comet before the next session...

Nice old double ended wadcutter boolit though. I figure it'll be just the thing to load over a light charge of 700X or PB in .357 cases for my daughter to target shoot her 6" M19 with...

Dennis