Lube heater

[JudgeBAC]

A lube heater is not necessary for softer lubes but Lars Carnuba Red, my lube of choice these days, does require some heat. I purchased a Lyman lube heater for my 450 Lubrisizer and was sorely disappointed. It puts out too much heat and lube would ooze out everywhere.

Someone on a prior thread mentioned using a Harbor Freight router variable speed control to control the temperature. I promptly ordered one and immediately hooked it up when it arrived. As advertised, this thing works like a charm. Now you have full control over the temperature. It takes a little experimentation with the control (a dial from low to high) to get the right temperature but it really does the trick.

If you have been having this problem, order one, you will not be disappointed.

[Dale53]

That is an excellent tip. You can use an electrical box, an outlet, a piece of electrical cord and and lamp dimmer switch and make one for a bit cheaper (either will work equally well) but here is one that is READY to go.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060

Personally, I use an already owned Dremel tool speed control with my Lyman heater and it works perfectly.

FWIW
Dale53

[1hole]

The H.F. "Router" type speed controllers work fine with any motor having brushes AND with any other electrical system that has a "resistive load" (that is, not an "inductive load" such as most appliance motors have, including our tumbers) so it will work fine for the heating elements in casting pots.

[Hardcast416taylor]

My heat controller was a homemade rig of using a light dimmer control with wiring plugs on either side for hooking up to the heating unit and a plug on the other side. Worked for me for about 3 years till I came up with a lube that didn`t require heat to move. All this was done back in the `80`s before this hard lube craze started, the heater unit was also homemade out of aluminum plate with a channel "S" grooved in it and the heating wire from a crock-pot with a thin aluminum sheet over the wire. Worked for me!Robert

[dromia]

The trick is not to have it on the whole time.

Once I've got the lube moving (I use Carnauba Red) I turn it off, I can get a couple of 100 boolits done before I need to turn it on again.

Thats at a cool room temperature.

[monadnock#5]

Some years ago. I watched a coworker prep and metal spray a shaft journal. Before spraying, the metal needed to be 180°F. The way he determined that the temp had been reached, was to spit on his finger, and touch the spot he wanted to spray 3 times. I thought that was a little strange, so he had me try it. "That's 180°" he said, and with great conviction. I went and grabbed a laser style thermometer and gave it a zap. 183° :holysheep

My Lyman 450 is held to the heat plate by 2 bolts. I let the unit heat at max for 20 min (Carnauba Red) before lubing the first boolit. I let it continue at max until the bolt head, by feel, reaches 120°, then I chop the power. I find my 450 works best with C Red between 110 and 120°. I can keep them playing nicely together within this range using my finger for a thermocouple. No spit required in this application.
:redneck:

[Shiloh]

Like Hardcast said, Doesn't a dimmer switch do the same thing?? $6-$7 at Home Depot, Lowe's, Menards, Mill's Fleet Farm. Tax but no shipping.

Shiloh

[Kskybroom]

Yep A dimmer switch An a Iron

[tenexx]

I pulled apart a Walmart mini croc pot designed for keeping dips warm for the heating strip. I taped the strip into contact with the base of my Lyman 450.
I use the same method Dromia does and heat the press when I start and only when needed thereafter

Total cash outlay $9 Canadian.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
I grew up in SW Michigan (Riverside). Everyone that had an outside vehicle that needed to start in the morning had thier cylinder block heater for those cold morning starts. So when my first batch of lube got stiff in my old Lyman 45 down in the unheated dungeon the cylinder block heater got put to work. It is magnetic so it self sticks to any iron metal it gets close to. It gets HOT & has a very simple temp control...Just Unplug It. Yesterday early I needed to lube some boolits. 10 minutes before start I plugged in the heater. Got my boolits all organised, gas checks ready for the 2 different calibers, searched out the "other" size die & top punch. By then the heater was cooking and the resevoir was well warm. Started lubbing the .314 (my .30 Gov rifles). About 10 minutes into checking & lubing I pulled the plug. About 20 minutes later I was changing the sizer to .412 (.414 SM ) and upon inserting the sizer I plugged the heater back in for about 5 minutes while sizing. Then just pulled the plug.
No stell base plate is needed. No controls are needed. I tend towards that which is in it's simplest, basic, stripped down form. No bells, no whistles, no complications.

[jbunny]

good morning boys. i mounted my lyman 450 on a electrical box with a
60 watt light bulb inside. the temp is controled by a hot water tank adjustable
thermostat which i got from the dump. it takes an hour to heat up and the
bulb goes on and off as needed. cheap and it works. i have it mounted on the
bench in a ways away from the edge.
cheers
jb

[Maven]

+1 for missionary 5155's engine block heater. I bought mine years ago from the now defunct GAR Reloading in Paterson, N.J. (came with an Al base too) and it works like a charm.

[truckmsl]

I mounted my lubrisizer to a steel plate and bought a $7 walmart iron to place on it. doesn't get much simpler or cheaper than that. built in t-stat and works like a charm.

[enoch59]

Hi fella's, I am in the midst of trying to set up a 2 wire dimmer to my lyman heater so that I can control the heat to my lube. The dimmer is a Skylark S-600P 600W Max 120 VAC, 60 Hz-5A. I have a box to wire it into. The dimmer has an on/off switch built in. Can you guys speak slowly to me ( for I am stupid about electrical anything ) about how to hook this up ? I would so greatly appreciate your/any help. Sincerely, Enoch.

[monadnock#5]

http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A0LEVxezuAdT9FAA6QpXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTB0 c2djYnY4BHNlYwNzYwRjb2xvA2JmMQR2dGlkA1ZJUDM2MV8x?_ adv_prop=image&fr=mcafee&va=schematics+for+wiring+a+dimmer+switch

I don't know much more about electrical hook ups than you do. I/we would hate to give you instructions that ended up getting some one hurt. That said, here is more info than you can get your head around. If you can interpret the schematics you need, and put them to good use, you can give it a try. If on the other hand all you see Egyptian hieroglyphics, STOP! Do Not Pass Go!
Good luck, and please be careful.

[blikseme300]

I have used a dimmer to control my sizer heater but found a better way using a water heater thermostat mounted on the plate. It has the advantage that is needs no tweaking to keep the temperature constant. I got mine off of Amazon and shipping was free as I am a Prime member. Less than $10 spent to get constant temperature. Search for this on Amazon: Reliance 9000507-045 Lower Electric Thermostat