I need a mould medic

[kbstenberg]

Well i have a major problem. I damaged my 503 Mihec mould. I have Galling big time on the cavity closest to the sprue pivot point. Yes i used Bull plate on both the plate an the top of the mould. Yes i took the sprue plate off an used 800grit paper to see if there was a burr.
I have tried cutting the sprue as soon as the puddle solidified, an i have waited for about 6 seconds after the sprue puddle solidified. I All ways get galling. Even on the next round after applying Bullplate.
The only thing i have noticed is that on the end of the mould where the galling is the left side of the mould is a little lower than the right side. The closer you come to the end closest to the handles the the height difference decreases. So that cavity #6 (away from the handles has the most mould eighth difference. When you get to the space between cavity #2 an#1 (closest to the handles) the eighth difference is gone.
Can i repair the damage to the top of the mould? Or do i have to send the mould to someone to have them resurface the top.
How do i adjust the mould so the 2 halves are even?
Something must have happened because i have already poured about 700 bullets over about 3 moulding sessions
Kevin

[Dale53]

Kevin;
How about a nice, close up picture of the problem area? That would help us to help you...

Dale53

[kbstenberg]

Dale here it is.
I measured the difference in the mould levels. Its .009
16888
Also is there a way to clean the burn marks on the top of the mould, an keep them from occurring? What am i doing to get them?

[montana_charlie]

Also is there a way to clean the burn marks on the top of the mould, an keep them from occurring? What am i doing to get them?
Do you smoke the cavities?
CM

[Springfield]

Dang, I have moulds that have 30,000 bullets through them and don't look as bad as that! Sorry, but it is true. First off, if you have galling than more than likely the mould is not up to or being kept up to temp, melted lead doesn't gall. Second, I don't know why you have that burned on brown stuff all over your mould 'cause Bullplate doesn't do that. Third, Bullplate won't keep your mould from galling, it just keeps everything lubed and keeps the lead from sticking to to mould. If the mould is to cold the lead will still gall, NOT the same as sticking. I do casting on a small commercial scale, and cast with mostly LEE 6 cav moulds. I am willing to check out your mould if you are willing to send it to me. I can do some test casting and see if it is the mould or just your technique. Maybe, just maybe Mihec moulds work differently than LEE's. I have only used steel and brass Mihec moulds so far.

[theperfessor]

Can you rattle or move the two halves when they are closed gently? Might be your alignment pins on one or both ends have moved into the blocks for enough to allow misalignment. If this is the case you can drift the pins out further and maybe drill and tap for a set screw to keep it from happening again.

[SciFiJim]

The brown stuff looks like burned on resin from resin core solder. I did that once to a mold and am still trying to clean it off.

[captaint]

kb, One of my questions would be - when you cast those boolits, do the noses line up right, or are they a few thou off like the bases?? Mike

[MtGun44]

I, too, want to know what the nasty brown crud is. Bull Plate lube does not do that.
I think you have some other material causing buildup and failing to lube the mold and
sprue plate. The brown crud on the bolt and sprue plate is absolutely incredible for
the small amount of casting you are talking about. Any ideas what is causing this
build up???? Very much not normal. Are sure you didn't get some other lube mixed
up and think you were using Bull Plate Lube when it was aactually some kind of oil or grease
or some other petroleum product???

Bill

[Dale53]

Kevin;
The brown build up is certainly NOT Bullshop's lube (as the others have also stated). It is a bit difficult to tell from the photo (and its a good photo) but it appears to me that you are NOT having galling problems. That appears to just be the contact points of the sprue plate. Lubing with Bullshop's sprue plate lube should keep that from getting worse.

The real question is, how are the bullets? Are they uniform?

I have cast a couple of thousand with my mould and am a happy camper, now.

You might be able to remove the brown substance with a good solvent. Acetone, maybe? I have seen that look when using LBT's recommended aluminum mould lube. I no longer use it...

Dale53

[montana_charlie]

I, too, want to know what the nasty brown crud is.
It looks like carbonized beeswax/bullet lube/birthday candle residue from trying to 'lube' a hot mould with wax.

I want to know what those 'gall marks' are.

Is that a coating of lead on the surface...or gouges in the aluminum?
CM

[kbstenberg]

I positively do not take any offense at any comments made in a positive way.
The only chemicals i have used on the moulds has been Break cleaner an dish soap to clean the moulds. After that i have used Kroil between uses an Bullplate during moulding.
Sorry M. Charlie i have never smoked my moulds
SciFi same here, i have not used Solder in any of my Alloys. An all of my fluxing is done with sawdust.
Perfessor no there is no movement of the moulds when they are closed. But there is a very small wear mark on the alignment pin on one side of the pin showing that the pin is holding the mould out of alignment.
Sprinfield i greatly appreciate your offer to go over my mould! please PM me your address.
Captain all the boolits iv looked at look very good.
I was just thinking when i pre-heat my moulds there is sawdust on the top of the lead. When i put my mould into the lead to heat ,could some reside from the heated wood be transfered to the mould surfaces. Because all surfaces of the mould have some degree of the burnt surfaces. I try to dip the aluminum of the mould to heat. But i also turn the mould over so the edge of the sprue plate an the bolt are heated. I do that so that the first couple times i stike the sprues it is easier with the warmed plate.
After i send this i will log out an try to clean the burnt areas an try to get back later tonight with the results
Thanks to all !!!!!!!!!!!! Kevin

[SciFiJim]

I was just thinking when i pre-heat my moulds there is sawdust on the top of the lead. When i put my mould into the lead to heat ,could some reside from the heated wood be transfered to the mould surfasess. Because all surfaces of the mould have some degree of the burnt surfaces. I try to dip the aluminum of the mould to heat. But i allso turn the mould over so the edge of the sprue plate an the bolt are heated.

Depending on the wood the sawdust is from, it could definitely be sawdust residue. If the sawdust is from OSB or plywood that has glue in it, that could be the culprit. Do you submerge your mold or rest it on top of the melt to heat? When I was new at this I submerged a mold after adding resin core solder. I had that stuff in the cavities as well.

If it is not in the cavities and doesn't cause binding anywhere, I would not worry about it. It will eventually burn off.

[Springfield]

Address sent. mwwhyte1@verizon.net

[masscaster]

Not having the mould on hand makes it impossible for me personally to make a diagnosis.
This could be caused by one thing, or a couple different things at once.
Lead smears aren't uncommon, especially when opening the mould a bit too fast, or the melt and mould combination too hot.
As far as the different height of the blocks goes, this to can be caused by several things.
An alignment issue, swapping handles sometimes will cure a misalinging mould. It's just hard to say.
I'm always happy to do what I can to fix a mould for someone. I get them in the shop quite frequently from the locals. This is always free, regardless if it can be fixed, or needs replaced.
Shipping back and forth is the only cost to you.
PM me if interested.
masscaster

[kbstenberg]

Here are some updated pictures. Last nite i used a toothbrush an Kroil for about an hour on several surfases. Let the mould soak overnite an used the brush again
the first picture is the same as last nite after cleaning. Some of the burnt areas allso extend inside the mould. If you look between the bulet cavities, you can see several areas that go from the outside surface into the cavities. I am sorry!!!! you guyes could probably tell me more about the pictures than i can tell you. I will just shut up an let the experts tell me.
Yes the scratches are in the mould.
The picture of the spruecutter is the underside. Im shutin up now.16940

16941

16942

16943

16944

[Springfield]

I have moulds that I bought used that look worse than that and still put out perfectly good bullets. I still think at some point the mould was opened when the lead was too cold, a very common occurrence. Aluminum moulds ARE aluminum and MUST be run hot enough or damage will occur. Some people just wait too long. For example, breaking the sprue handle seems pretty common, but I have NEVER broken one. I run hot, it works.

[montana_charlie]

I would check the alignment of the tops of the mould blocks while not mounted on the handles.
If the tops are still uneven, I would send the mould back to the manufacturer for repair or replacement.

The gouges in the aluminum show something was 'cutting' it when the sprue plate was opened. If bullet alloy can do that, I'm amazed. Must be some hard alloy!
If it was not done by 'lead', it had to be the steel of the sprue plate...right where the holes are.
Look for slightly raised edges (of those holes) on the bottom side.

Considering everything together, I think I would send it back to the maker...and run a looser pivot screw on the new one.
CM

[TAWILDCATT]

I just got a lee 6 and a sizing die somewhere it says not to use the RL on a mold as the lube will harden and I have one that looks like that.so maybe some one use TL at one time.

[yondering]

You may be (or did at one time) run the mold way too hot. Aluminum will gall easily if it's too hot; it becomes very soft even at the temperature of your melt. Of course the mold will almost always be much cooler than your melt while casting, but if you are letting it heat up on top of your melt too long, it could be getting too hot. Bullplate lube will burn if you get it way too hot like that, so maybe that's the problem?

One other thing, boolits are "cast", not "moulded". [smilie=s:

[MtGun44]

Looking at the new pix, the mold is a lot cleaner. I am still puzzled by the original brown
buildup. I never get that and I always use Bull Plate Lube. Do you have access to a
surface plate or a really good flat surface like the ground flat top of a mill or even good
quality cast iron table saw? You may find that you have inadvertantly bent the
sprue plate slightly when it was hot. Hot aluminum is fairly soft and the sprue plates on
Lee 6 holers and the MiHec molds are aluminum. If the sprue plate is bent slightly you
can either try to straighten it or probably better, lap it back to flatness. You need the
very flat surface (chunk of thick glass works, too) and some silicon carbide sandpaper
("Wet or Dry" - the black stuff) in about 240, 360 and 400 or similar grits. Lay the paper
on the flat surface, lube with a bit of kerosene or other very light oil and move the
sprue plate back and forth while pressed to the paper to grind off any high spots and
get it back flat. Start with around 360 unless there is a lot of metal to remove, then
maybe 240. Finish with 400 or finer if you want a super finish. I have helped my
Lyman molds on multiple occasions by lapping the sprue plate back flat. Maybe lapping
the top of the two mold blocks would help, too.

Try to see what might have been producing the brown film, this is not helpful or normal
and you should find out how to keep it from happening in the future. Sparing use of
Bull Plate on the whole bottom of the sprue plate and top of the mold away from the
mold cavities should prevent future galling if the two piece are flat. Avoid overtightening
the pivot screw, too. Once the sprues are cut the sprue plate should swing freely, and
be relocated flat and snug when it slide under the near side bolt as you close it that last bit.

Good Luck!

Bill

[arcticbreeze]

I have a mold that looks just like that from when I first started. Luckily it was a cheaper Lee instead of a GB. I got that same brown build up when I was using a boolit lude to lube my mold also. It burned on and is still there years later. Have you ever used anything but bullplate to lube the mold? Here is on I have that looks like yours I think.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=30&pictureid=1590

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=30&pictureid=1589

[wallenba]

When I was a newbie to casting I lubed my sprue plate with hard ALOX. It got everywhere. The top of that mold still looks messed up like that.

[Springfield]

MtGun44: Actually the sprue plates on Mihec's moulds are steel, not aluminum. And I have inadvertently left my molds heating up in the lead mix for way too long, like I got a phone call and forgot it was there. And the Bullplate NEVER burned. I love this stuff, it doesn't build up, it keeps the lead from sticking, it lubes the pivots and pins. That's why I aquired 15 bottles of it. Ya never know, Bullshop might decide for some reason to stop selling it and I just couldn't take the chance. I just received this mould in the mail, so I will check it out, and cast a few with Bullplate and see if I have any problems. Will keep you all informed.

[Bullshop]

Springfield
Just this week I orderd $1400.00 in supplies to keep the Bullplate flowing.
Keep the faith Brother.
BIC/BS

[theperfessor]

The whooshing noise was all of us experienced casters letting out our breath in relief!

[Bullshop]

Breath easy Perfessor! Ol BS is on the job.
BIC/BS

[MtGun44]

Go BS Go!

Kinda unfortunate initials, but we love you anyway! ;-)

Glad to hear you are spending that much on stuff to make the lube, I interpret
that to mean that you are benefitting financially from providing us with such
a great product. As it should be.

Bill

[Bullshop]

A hearty thanks to all who have ordered bullplate!!! You have all helped us here at BS acres to stay afloat. I thank you all and the good Lord for giving me something I can do and stay with my family.
When I was falling timber I was away from home 9 months a year.
On Jr's first birthday 16 years ago I flew out to be with him and BS mom and when we met at the airport he wouldn't come to me because he didn't know me.
Broke my heart and that was the end of timber falling for me.
I went from $300.00 a day falling timber to nearly zip selling boolits. Its been a long hard road. We are not getting rich but then we don't want to be.
We sell enough to not have any debt and I am thankful for that.
If I may say this here, the good book says that true gain is contentment with food and raiment and we are content.
Thanks again to all 10,000 of you brothers of the silver stream.
BIC/BS

[theperfessor]

BS -

You are indeed wealthy in the most important things - you have your family, your faith, and the respect of those who know you and who you deal honestly and forthrightly with. Money is nice, but how many people with money are unhappy and have none of the things you have?

Be at peace and treasure your spiritual riches.

[Cowboy5780]

Way to go Bullshop good for you. I use the bullplate lube too now if i get break my habit of using too much i'll be in good shape. I keep putting too much on and haveing to wipe it off keep telling myself it only takes a smidge...

[mooman76]

I have been wondering as long as we are on the subject "Bullshop" how did you come upon your famous lube? I'm not asking you to give up any secrets to your formula.

[Springfield]

Bullshop: I know where you are coming from. I was a Deputy Sheriff for a few years but the hours kept me from my family too much, ended up getting divorced. So I found some jobs that allowed me to work days and sleep nights like I wanted. I remarried and had a couple kids, and decided I didn't want them to grow up in a daycare, so I started making and selling things for a job that used to be just a hobby and became a Mr. Mom. Took a large paycut, fortunately my wife works for the county and has decent benefits. We just had to cut or spending down to the bone, but it has been working so far. Can't say we don't have any debt, but the cars are paid for and nobody is calling us asking for money. Now that my son is in Kindergarten I have a few more uninterupted hours to get some work done, and it helps. Glad to hear the Bullplate is selling well, I even send samples to people who can't seem to get around to ordering it. Hopefuly it will generate some sales for ya. Just sent some to Mihec, trying to get you a toehold in Europe!

[Bullshop]

My apologies for diverting this thread! I think maybe the original issues have been adequately dealt with so if I may continue?
Moonman76
It all started back at the Shooters site with a lube discussion about BP lube.
The trend of thought was that we here and now could not make a BP lube that will work as well as what was used in the bygone days because we do not have access to sperm whale oil ant that oil was the magic ingredient.
I gave my view which was that we have more and better things now than ever dreamed of then. Basically I was laughed out of the discussion for going against the flow, as usual.
That sent me on a venture of study of lube technology that eventually ended up with the Bullshop line of lubes. The venture is not ended. It is a field of interest for me that will not end until my life does. The possibilities are endless. The only limit is available time to experiment and test. It seems there is always another idea of something that may be better to try. Its just as enjoyable to me as all the rest of casting, loading,and shooting. Shooting is good fun alone but without the other facets would not hold the same interest for me.
BIC/BS