Correct recipe

[AbitNutz]

So I used to work at a newspaper....and when I left for another company that had an IT department with a future, I took about a 1000 pounds of linotype with me. Yes, a 1000 pounds, it's all in gigantic pigs...and yes they knew all about of it and no I'm not selling it.

I've been casting with it straight for some time and it just occurred to me that this may not be the best bullet material. I've always dropped them from the mold in to a bucket of water. So as you might imagine, I think they're really, really hard. In fact, I suspect they're too hard for the very much less than max velocity loads I practice with.

So I think a recipe change may be in order. I'll likely still drop them in to my bucket of water but is Lyman #2 the way to go for all around cast bullets?

Or does anyone have a better recipe? I have a fair amount of pure tin, all that linotype and I can get lead from just about anywhere....I don't believe there's any other metal that I need...I just need the proper mix.

The formula I have is:
4 pounds Linotype
1 pound 50/50 bar solder
5 pounds pure lead
Makes 10 pounds of #2 alloy

[Alchemist]

What are you shooting your linotype bullets from? Rifle or handgun? "Very much less than max velocity loads" doesn't give us much information to work with.

If you're casting for low velocity handgun loads, lino probably is too hard for your purposes. On the other hand, properly sized hard bullets are considered better by some for auto pistols which tend to have shallow rifling that soft bullets can "strip out" of.

I don't mean to sound harsh, but more information in your question will help you get better answers. :p

[Shiloh]

It's your metal, but linotype can be alloyed way down and still driven at impressive velocities. I have some envy of your stash, it would last me more than a lifetime.

Lyman #2 is fine for anything. You could run almost any velocity within reason for proper fitting boolits. I've run water hardened WW lead at 2200 with no leading in an '06
Accuracy was below average. I get much better accuracy at sub 1800 and I use a softer alloy.

SHiloh

[rob45]

Congratulations on your score. That should be enough to last you a very long time. 1000 lbs of lino can make well over 2000 lbs of Lyman No.2 alloy. Going under the assumption that your lino is the accepted "standard" of 4-12-84, the recipe for 10# of No.2 alloy would be:

4 lb, 2.6 oz lino
10.7 oz 50/50 solder
5 lb, 2.7 oz pure lead



If working with pure tin instead of 50/50 solder, use:

4 lb, 2.6 oz lino
5.4 oz pure tin
5 lb, 8 oz pure lead


Naturally, the above recipes assume a linotype composition of 4-12-84. This is all fun when we're simply playing with numbers, but several variables come into play. Of primary concern is the actual composition of your lino. Depending upon the job position you held with your (former) employer, you probably realize that there are several "formulas" for linotype, not just the 4-12-84. Different shops used the different formulas for varying reasons, whether specific to a particular application or (more likely) for reasons of economics.

The composition of your lino is dependent upon several factors, including, but not limited to:
1. Which formula was specified by your shop?
2. What is the source of the pigs? Were they created inhouse from raw material (or as delivered from an outside foundry), or were they created from inhouse remelts?
3. If created from remelts (most is), was the furnace used a newer model or an older model? The newer models have greatly improved temp control apparatus and the ability to create an inert atmosphere for oxidation control. With the older models the way to combat this problem was to add toner metal during the remelt so as to replenish the alloy.


You did not mention what loads you are attempting to develop, and, with the exception of bullet fit, the type of load is one of the most important things to consider when selecting a suitable alloy. Lyman's No.2 is very forgiving (easy to work with) and casts beautifully, but it is expensive. More importantly, it is not always needed. No single alloy is optimum for everything, so we need more information on what loads you're trying to develop.

A more economical alloy to make with your linotype is the "hardball" alloy of 2-6-92. Simply mix 1:1 lino and pure lead. The hardball alloy will give the same casting characteristics as the No.2 alloy and will also exhibit the same hardness characteristics. However, my experience indicates that the No.2 alloy seems to be more forgiving upon impact. I experience more retained weight with the No.2 alloy than I have with the hardball alloy. So, if you're developing loads where bullet integrity is important (hunting), then that is something to consider.

There are a lot of alloy recipes that can be used with your linotype. For that matter, there's not much that the lowly wheel weight hasn't already done! Give us an idea what you're shooting, the pressures/velocities involved, the intended use, etc. and we'll help you find the recipe for your application.

Again, congratulations, and good luck.

[AbitNutz]

I apologize for not being specific on what I was shooting. I only shoot handguns...I'm now trying to justify a buying a Freedom Arms model 83 in 454 Casull.

The handgun only shooting comes from the fact I'm much better at it than rifles. Sounds goofy but the reason is because I'm very right handed but almost blind in my right eye. So I have to shoot rifles left handed; so I suck at it. I can shoot pistols cross eyed...cross eyed? Is that the correct term? Anyway, right handed but left eyed.

None of this is for hunting. I no longer hunt deer with guns...I use my car.

Main pistols I cast for are a Colt Python that has been Magna Ported. I have seen some issues with Magna Porting and cast bullets. I have seen the ports lead up. This pistol is very tight. The barrel slugs at .355

I also have a Smith & Wesson Model 52-2. It has a 6" Bar-Sto barrel and is also Magna Ported. I have never seen the ports lead up on this one. But then velocity is really quite low. This pistol can be very particular about what it will shoot well. I would love to find a .357 full wadcutter hollow base mold for the 52-2 but have never seen one. The 52-2 really likes hollow base bullets. I have some copper coated Berry HB full wadcutters that it just loves. The barrel is .357

I also have a S&W 25-5 in .45 Colt. It is a very inaccurate. The chamber throats are very large and I suspect that may have something to do with it. If I cast the bullets huge, .455 things tighten up but the barrel is .452 so that may be too much. The Colt New Service I have in 45 Colt will shoot rings around it.

I also have a Ruger Bisley Single Six in 32 H&R Magnum and it really likes an 84 grain full wadcutter mold I have. The Ruger Blackhawk I have in .30 carbine hates everything....I'd be happy if I could hit the broad side of a barn with it...from inside the barn.


The linotype is 4-12-84 and I thought about just adding lead but I have read that adding tin, like Lyman #2, as you've pointed out, improves how well the metal casts. I have some tin so if that makes life easier for me, I'm for it.

I also am going to try a new mold that's a hollow point. I know I said I don't hunt and I don't but I'd like to try out making some hollow points.