Need some help first time casting

[twally]

Hello,
I have just recieved my new Lee 2 hole mold, I'm not sure I understand the directions for lubing the mold, they say to put lube in the v grooves and on the spru plate hinge and to use bullet lube, but not to use liquid alox lube. I don't have any so called bullet lube because I was going to use the alox. What can be substuted for the bullet lube?

Thank's Wally

[wiljen]

Most here use Bullplate lube as there is nothing else even close when it comes to mold lube.

Can be bought Here:
http://bullshop.gunloads.com/

[Edubya]

I don't own a Lee mould but I stayed at the Holiday Inn last night.
Twally, I've seen it written that beeswax is perfect for the Lee mould lube.
Have you checked their website? Sometimes you'll find much more detailed information on sites than in manuals.
EW

[docone31]

I do not lube my Lee molds.
I allow the oxidation from the heat cycles to act as a lube.
so far, so good.
Many years of use.

[HORNET]

The problem with using beeswax or LLA to lube the molds is that they always get where you don't want them to be, like in the vent grooves and cavities. Some have recommended using high-temp anti-sieze until you can get some Bullplate. I've also masked off the cavities and venting and used dry graphite spray. I was using some spray moly-disulphide until it ran out of propellant......Pooh!

[mooman76]

WD-40 will work untill you get another lube. It dries so if you get some in the cavity, it doesn't hurt none. I usually lube while the mould is hot so it dries almost instantly. I stopped using it after I got the bull plate lube.

[donald duck]

I have sprayed my molds with PAM, the cooking spray and have had no problems other than getting it out of the kitchen. Give it a try!!

[DLCTEX]

I would not use LLA or beeswax for lube as it builds up a hard carbon deposit that will not come off. I'd prefer to use it dry until I could get some Bullplate if it were my mould. Click on the sponser link at the bottom of the page.

[HeavyMetal]

avoid using wax or boolit lube on the mold! As stated it cruds up thermold something fierce and looks like... well you get the idea.

Anti size is probablely faster to get than Bull plate lube but either will get the job done and done well!

[stephen perry]

If you are going to go the anti-sieze route may I suggest Pro-Gold made by Pro-Shot. You can buy this from Bruno, Sinclair, Russ Haydon and other shooting supplies. Goes on easy and you only use a small amount one jar will last as long as your casting carreer.

Stephen Perry
Angeles BR :brokenima

[jakemo]

I am a newbie to this forum and to casting. Have all my stuff but haven't started yet; maybe just a bit overly cautious. Are you talking about lubing for proper release of the cast bullets?

[largom]

I am a newbie to this forum and to casting. Have all my stuff but haven't started yet; maybe just a bit overly cautious. Are you talking about lubing for proper release of the cast bullets?


NO! They are talking about lubing the alignment pins and grooves on the mold halves. Never lube the mold cavities for casting although some lube them for storage.

Larry

[JIMinPHX]

A little hi temp grease from the auto parts store will get you by until you can get some Bullplate lube. You will need to clean off the residue from the hi temp grease once in a while, but it sure beats gaulling up the tops of the blocks or having the boolits come out all crooked & oversized because the blocks didn't close up all the way.

[armyrat1970]

I do not lube my Lee molds.
I allow the oxidation from the heat cycles to act as a lube.
so far, so good.
Many years of use.

Never have a problem with the blocks sticking together? I use the Lee Alox Beeswax but you have to use very little or it will get into the cavities. After awhile it will start to crud up and have to clean the mold again.

[badgeredd]

Another lube that seems to work well is a GOOD 2-cycle oil applied with a que tip. I have been using a bottle of Stihl 2-cycle oil with good results.

Edd

[mdi]

Use which ever lube you choose SPARINGLY (I've used Catapillar Anti-sieze). A little goes a long way. Just a small dab on the v blocks and on the sprue plate. Don't get any in the cavities because it'll take several castings to get the mold making good boolits again.