Buck Beavers casting flux

[Hardcast416taylor]

I`ve been casting for longer than I want to remember. I`ve used about anything and about everything for flux. I was scanning flea bay today seeing the insane prices people are willing to pay when I came across this stuff. Buck Beavers casting flux by the Vulcans workshop company. Supposed to remove dirt you didn`t know was there, be smokeless and be good to your pot. Anybody ever use this stuff with good or bad results?Robert

[Shiloh]

Never heard of it.

Like you, I've done sawdust. scrap oil, boolit lube scraps, Marvelux ect.

Shiloh

[dromia]

Stir with a dry dowel or dry stick, its what I use on the odd occasion I fell the need to flux the pot.

Its as good as anything else, cheap and easily available.

[No_1]

Never heard of it. I have used pieces of old crayon from the restaurant, pieces of old candle, bacon grease and wood chips. The best thing I have found so far was the paint stirring sticks they give me for FREE when I buy paint at the Lowe's, home depot, etc.

R.

[SP101GUY]

Buck Beaver is the only flux I have used, but I haven't been casting long. This stuff is cheap and it works great. No smoke or bad smells, just drop some in and stir. It does crackle a little. It seems to clean up the melt very well. I got mine off of Ebay also. I plan to stick with it.

AJ

[358wcf]

I've been using this flux for approx. a year or so, and it is by far the very best product I've tried in 30 years of casting!!! No BS here, just great stuff- you need very little to clean and flux your pot- so a jar will last a very, very long time. I went back and bought enough to last the rest of my casting days, for sure, and perhaps a bit left for the heirs---
I will state clearly that with use of this stuff as directed, the pot gets CLEANER and cleaner with use!! No BS-- your pot will end up cleaner than when you started, unless you started with a new pot---
Buy this stuff, and you will be pleased. You will never, ever, be disappointed in your decision. Best thing EvilBay ever did for me!!

358wcf [smilie=1:[smilie=1:[smilie=1:
Chuck

[SP101GUY]

+1 on the pot actually getting cleaner than when you started. I made up about 250# of WW and lead pipe ingots and just couldn't get the pot very clean. After casting about 40# of 000 buckshot fluxed with the Beaver, the pot is cleaner than I could get it with steel wool.

The Beaver rules.:mrgreen:

AJ

[Shiloh]

Never heard of it. I have used pieces of old crayon from the restaurant, pieces of old candle, bacon grease and wood chips. The best thing I have found so far was the paint stirring sticks they give me for FREE when I buy paint at the Lowe's, home depot, etc.

R.

You too??

Shame on us for depriving the rug rats of artistic materials.:drinks:

Shiloh

[montana_charlie]

A question for those who have used this flux...

When you flux your pot, what do you end up dipping out?
Is it just a fine powdery residue; a heavy clump of crud that solidifies; or 'something else'?

CM

[SP101GUY]

It tends to stay in powder form, it just turns gray from all the crud it picks up.

AJ

[montana_charlie]

Let me phrase my question a different way.

Does the Buck Beaver flux remove lead oxide and tin oxide from the pot, or does it reduce those oxides back into the alloy...and only help to remove the contaminates?

CM

[madsenshooter]

The fellow sent me a sample. Seemed sorta inert to me, but I didn't stir it in, I was trying to get rid of what I thought was borate crystals that was causing problems with my castings, and since his contained boric acid, didn't want to add to it. Something I've found that works pretty good is anhydrous citric acid. Smells, and smokes, with a smoke that burns as it's releasing hydrogen, but does it ever put the oxides back down into the pot! Citric acid is a polyprotic acid, it has 3 hydrogen protons it can donate toward liberating the oxide portion of the metal oxide. It's available cheap from farm suppliers, got mine from qcsupply, where it is used to lower the pH of hog feeds to increase the absorption of antibiotics.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Madsenshooter, Is there a specific brand name for this citric acid materal. All we have around here are TSC stores and farm feed elevators.Robert

[semtav]

Let me phrase my question a different way.

Does the Buck Beaver flux remove lead oxide and tin oxide from the pot, or does it reduce those oxides back into the alloy...and only help to remove the contaminates?

CM

I just tried some today and I have the same question.
A little pinch swelled into a huge pile of stuff on top of my lead. I tried to stir it back in but still wound up with lots on top. finally just left it there until I was almost done casting,



Madenshooter

Are you sure you got the right stuff. I couldn't call this stuff anything close to inert. Just a little pinch on top my pot was enough to swell to 20 times what I started with.

[Charlie Sometimes]

I've read about the stuff on E-bay before, and wondered about it.
After reading some of this thread, I decided to get some and try it.
Waiting on the shipment now- I intend to try it on once melted WW's to clean them up before making alloy, and in my regular melt pot just to see what goes on- this stuff sounds as if it will be a step saver.

I'm looking for some amazing results- I hope I am not disappointed.

I usually use parafin to flux with- smokey and the fumes need to be burned off.
No smoke would be wonderful, and something that don't crud up the pot like Marvelux does would be even better!

[madsenshooter]

I only had a small sample he sent me, it didn't do anything at all, just sat there! Maybe he's changed the formula. I stirred a little and some of the white started to turn grey, but that was it. Here's a link to the citric acid from QC supply, 40 410gm packages is a lot of it, the minimum wasn't so large when I bought some from them. http://www.qcsupply.com/qcsupply/browse/productDetailWithPicker.jsp?productId=540924&categoryId=&fromPage=search

[montana_charlie]

Here's a link to the citric acid from QC supply, 40 410gm packages is a lot of it, the minimum wasn't so large when I bought some from them.
I am assuming that 100% citric acid for livestock use is identical to 100% citric acid for human consumption.

If true, it's much cheaper here...and appears to qualify for free shipping.
http://www.luckyvitamin.com/item/itemKey/50358?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=fpl&utm_term=NOWFoodsCitricAcid5lbs&utm_content=50358&utm_campaign=googlebase&site=google_base

CM

[Charlie Sometimes]

Okay, I got my jar today.

I fired up the dipper pot, and after everything got up to temp, I sprinkled some of this stuff on it.
As per instructions said not to do- I got too much at first and it started snowing!
After I got control of the situation (no harm done- it just surprises you how very little is needed), I tried again.
You don't need very much- it fluffs up fast, sizzles a little, and as I tried to stir it in, it started turning gray, and finally dried into a fluffy light gray powder that was easy to skim off (no metal loss).
I really didn't have a lot of filth in this alloy or pot apparently, but it did seem to extend the time between fluxing breaks.
The top of the melt remained shiny and smoother longer, I think.
With the ladle disturbing the surface every time, you get a film, or at least I do.

It is not anything at all like Marvelux, as best as I can tell. (That's good.)

I am going to use Buck Beaver this weekend on a big batch of once melted WW's to see how much dirt it removes in that situation.

[madsenshooter]

Hmm, maybe I ought to beg another sample, the first one must've been defectuive.

[montana_charlie]

With the ladle disturbing the surface every time, you get a film, or at least I do.
Thanks for a thoughtful description of your experience with that flux.

That 'film' you get is the oxides of lead and tin and 'whatever else' is in your alloy.

I am really interested in knowing what actually happens to that stuff. Does the flux 'absorb' it, or does it 'reduce' the oxides so they go back into the metal state.

I can't imagine a way for you to determine that during your next smelting session, but I would be interested to hear what you think becomes of those oxides.

CM

[Charlie Sometimes]

What I think so far- the flux turned a very light gray, so it must absorb something of the oxides.
If it were black or some other color, I would think dirt or carbon.
Gray could be zinc, antimony, etc., too.
Marvelux always turned a very dark gray or black when I used it, and crusted up the pot badly.
This didn't leave any crust.

Yea, I know the film is oxidization, but some people seem to have a cleaner, shinner melt.
I run hot on all of my alloys (works best for me), so mine is a little because of that, too.

It seems to turn a lot back into the melt.
I didn't get any metal loss when skimming this stuff.

We will see what the WW's produce- weather permiting.

[semtav]

Thought I'd try some of this on my stick on wheel weight smelting today. After I cleaned all the big gunk off, I threw some of this in. It didn't do anything. Kinda balled up and floated on top. couldn't get it to act anything like it does with the alloys, so I'm suspecting its picking up some of the tin or antimony when its put in alloys.
My little 10 lb pot was full of that crud on top, but a huge ole pot of pure lead wheel weights and I couldn't get anything. I'm kinda suspicious now.

[montana_charlie]

Guess I've heard enough to scratch "Beaver Flux" off of my 'bucket list'.
CM

[Charlie Sometimes]

Well, the weather was windy and nasty on Saturday, and I couldn't get outdoors to cast, or hunt.
Sunday was better, but other issues arose- I might get to try later this week.

I did fire up the pot on the bench for a few 22 boolits.
I think the flux being "mildly caustic" (as per the discription on insructions) may breakdown the oxides on the melt.
It returns the film back into the pot very quickly.

I've got to try this stuff on some really dirty alloy to see what is going on better.

So far, I like it better than smokey paraffin, and crusty Marvelux!

[semtav]

Guess I've heard enough to scratch "Beaver Flux" off of my 'bucket list'.
CM


I don't want anyone to take my comments on the flux as intelligent dialogue. In fact it is just the opposite. I really have no idea what is going on with it.

I just smelted some more stick on wheel weights today, and this time I threw in a big batch of the flux. it did a lot more popping and sizzling. but still really didn't turn very grey or dirty.

[Charlie Sometimes]

Okay, I got to remelt everything- I just got done with about 180 lb. :castmine:

I used both Beaver and the Marvelux for comparisons since I had so much to remelt.

I definitely like the Buck Beaver flux better. :mrgreen:
For the previously stated reasons- it stays light and fluffy for the most part, and when you skim it off you don't get any metal loss.
It sizzles like bacon cooking when you put it on the melt and fluffs up, even when stirred into the melt.
It turned darker gray this time, but was still fluffy.
No smoke, but the rising heat causes it to fly like snow if you use too much.
I can't smell any obvious odor when using this either.
Put it on stir, and skim- pratically that fast. [smilie=w:

The Marvelux is just a pain. :evil:
Easy to apply, and it melts across the surface like a liquid, bubbles, and turns black and crusty (which takes extra time waiting for it to dry up.):evil:
Then when you skim it, you pick up a little metal with it. :evil:
You can tell an obvious difference in the weight of the material skimmed, even if you don't get metal with it.
Marvelux weighs more after application.
No smoke with this, but there is more odor to Marvelux- like maybe 20 mule team borax.

I got a 8 oz jar of Buck Beaver, and it should last a long time because a little does seem to go a long way- just a dab'll do ya. Yab-a-dab-a-do!
The Marvelux, well, I need to find another use for it- I still have 3 lb. of that junk (had it for years because it messes everything up), but I keep hoping something will change, I guess. :veryconfu
Maybe I can use it to wash my hunting clothes.......

[muzzleblast]

Guys, I thought this was an intersting discussion, so I contacted the seller and asked the question, as follows:

I am a member of the 'cast boolits' forum. There is a new thread with Buck Beaver Flux as the topic. There are some guys who have used it and say it really gets the melt clean. But, there is an important and unanswered question: "Does the flux absorb the lead and tin oxides or reduce them back into the alloy?" If you can provide the answer, I'll be happy to post it to the thread.

Here is the seller's response:

Fine questions. The flux doesn't do much in the way of reduction, though it does reduce somewhat. It's action is more in the area of consolidating oxides/dirt by means of improved flow which allows clumping of the grey trash for removal. It also serves to retard further oxidization.

Please make sure you don't "bomb" the melt with a heap of it. It takes just a pinch which is why I started selling the shaker tops. Too much is just wasting it and gives worse results. As the dirt will vary from melt to melt it is good to start VERY light and add till you are happy. Ol' Buck can be a good friend to the frugal caster. Just takes a bit of getting used to.
Hope this helps,
Ron

I am not sure what to make of this, other than I might find it useful in smelting dirty wheel weights and would be reluctant in using it when adding tin to my pour pot.

[Charlie Sometimes]

Muzzleblast- thanks for the added info.

I understand- it doesn't take much, and getting used to it is the hardest part.
It fluffs and clumps like he says- "bombing" the melt didn't help anything.
It does make the melt look better- very clean, without the filth of Marvelux, or parrafin residue to remove.
I had a pot of molten WW's- probably 100 pounds at time, and I fluxed 3 times as I reduced the level in the pot, just to make sure it was clean throughout pouring ingots- it made a difference.
I had some very nice ingots after remelting and using this flux.

I don't think you have to worry about it reducing your tin or anything else (except the dirt) from the melt.

I think I will find me an empty parmesan cheese shaker, or one smaller, and put some in it next time I try it- maybe two, a big one for smelting, and a little one for casting.

[Charlie Sometimes]

Used it again today, melting pure lead for future RB's.
It helped, but did even better when I added a little tin to the lead.

Just a pinch did just fine.

I guess it works best on lead alloys.

[squirrelnuttz]

I bought a small jar and a shaker a while ago.Used it melting down wheel weights and making boolits.Seems to clean the pot up nicely.I bottom pour pistol boolits, and this stuff is great as an oxidation barrier left on top of the melt.When fluxing, I try to stir it in deep and fairly aggressively and let it clean throughout the melt.I did notice my pot was clean after using this, but noticed a tendency for the inside to rust up a bit after sitting.After reading the posts of otherothers and the comments of the manufacturer, I think I have been using too much per use.

[dromia]

Sawdust is the best especially if you want a covering over the top of your alloy.

[Mr Peabody]

I've used this product for a couple years now. Put it in a salt shaker and apply it like you would a powder; Lightly. It gather's up the surface dross. Scrape that dross off and your good to go. Don't inhale the dust. I'm told it's Anhydrous Borax. Heck it could be donkey poop, but it works better than all the witches brew's I used before.

[Lead]

Never heard of it but when I first started I picked up some stuff at local welding shop. Welding flux an as a welder at my muffler shop never used so didn't know it was actually weld an it stuck to hold on welded to everything metal it touched in my pot ruined a good cast iron pot. Dope lol

[dikman]

I'm told it's Anhydrous Borax.

Having read through this posting, that was my first thought - Borax. I've used it for forge-welding steel, and when you sprinkle it onto yellow-hot steel it often bubbles and can "clump" a bit until it melts and starts flowing. Next time I smelt some range scrap I might try a bit, out of curiosity, but I doubt it'll replace using sawdust - cheap and effective.