Dan Wesson playing up.

[lead Foot]

I now use my 10".357mag for silhouette only. I use a RCBS 35-200-fn heavy load.
With light loads the gun cycles just fine but now with heavy loads it just wont though the first shot is ok. It will cycle dry with your thumb on the cylinder. does this sounld like the hand spring. Your thoughts gents.
Lead foot;

[7br]

I was having similar problems with my 8" 41mag. I was not crimping my bullets good enough. Bullets would back out making the oal considerably longer. (Is that actually "Backing forwards"?) Ogive of the bullet was against the throat the cartridge base was against the frame. It was enough to cause binding. Bizarre thing about it was this is the same load I have been using for 5 years and I don't think I have moved the ring on the seating die. I did adjust seating depth to use a different bullet.

[750k2]

Make sure your bbl is not binding on the cylinder - some like to tighten as they are shot
and soon the forcing cone is against the cylinder - tighten bbl nut:drinks:

[44man]

Check cylinder gap at each chamber. Some of those guns have cylinders that are not faced true in the front.

[Maven]

Exactly what 750k2 and 44man said!

[StarMetal]

44man,

I'm confused. He said with light loads it's fine, but with heavy it will fire the one and then bind, but yet he can cycle the cylinder with his thumb. How can it be the cylinder face isn't true then?

Joe

[44man]

44man,

I'm confused. He said with light loads it's fine, but with heavy it will fire the one and then bind, but yet he can cycle the cylinder with his thumb. How can it be the cylinder face isn't true then?

Joe
If you set the one chamber with the .002" feeler gauge and the other side is only .0002" from the cone because the cylinder front wobbles, a little heat will bind it. I had one like that. It was not possible to set the gap evenly. I had to set it on the closest chamber then the other side was .0012" from the cone. If I set it on the wrong chamber, I could not cock the gun. Had to send the gun back to be fixed.
There was enough end play that the hand pushed the cylinder forward---instant lock up!
On top of that, the barrel was screwed into the frame crooked, it pointed to the left. They did not fix that so I sold the junker.
I am not saying it is his problem, but having had it, it is worth checking out.

[StarMetal]

If you set the one chamber with the .002" feeler gauge and the other side is only .0002" from the cone because the cylinder front wobbles, a little heat will bind it. I had one like that. It was not possible to set the gap evenly. I had to set it on the closest chamber then the other side was .0012" from the cone. If I set it on the wrong chamber, I could not cock the gun. Had to send the gun back to be fixed.
There was enough end play that the hand pushed the cylinder forward---instant lock up!
On top of that, the barrel was screwed into the frame crooked, it pointed to the left. They did not fix that so I sold the junker.
I am not saying it is his problem, but having had it, it is worth checking out.

Ok Jim, I see what you had. I was just wondering if his cylinder rotated with the one load and dry by hand and the heavy loads jammed it with one shot how a crooked cylinder face would do it. You certainly had a bad revolver all the way around. I've had friend that had DW and did they shoot good. Guess some lemons got out.

I reckon for a test he could open up the cylinder gap a little by screwing the barrel out some and see how that heavier load does then.

Joe

[44man]

DW had problems for a short period. I think it was when they changed owners once. Management skipped quality control for profits.
One fella had a new .44 at a shoot and could not sight it. The gun was beautiful but he had the sight as far right as it would go and could not get on target. I looked across the top and the barrel was pointing way left.
I can drill a straighter hole by hand.

[750k2]

The good ones are Monsons - My early 357 would do this - the barrel would back in
a little each trip to the range til one cylinder would start to catch on the carbon.
Mine is not that unsquare and is very accurate - also shoots straight.
I think DW specs the gap @ .004 but that is memory I'd have to go down and measure some of my gauges.

[StarMetal]

I wonder if CZ puts them together any better now that they own them....anyone know?

Joe

[Mallard57]

The gap is .006" for the Model 15 .357 Magnum. My Monson made DW cylinder had a very uneven front cylinder face.
Jeff

[lead Foot]

Thanks for the good replys. I bought it over a year for $200. It come with a 6" & 10" barrel. The 10" barrel had never been fired and raped in oil paper dated 1979. It is a Monson. I have noticed the barrel nut comes lose but did'nt realize the barrel tightens.I find it hard to get the gap just right. If I set to .006 I get blow by ~ to tight it binds. Also if I use the 6" barrel the sights are good But the 10"
I have the sights way to the left Like 44Man;s mate.It shoots well and
I love it. Very happy with the accuracy I get 5 into 1"@ 25meters with open sights ~ might do better with a scope. So I have a few things to try thanks again guys.
Lead foot:

[257 Shooter]

StarMetal, CZ does not List or currenly make a DW Revolver.

[StarMetal]

StarMetal, CZ does not List or currenly make a DW Revolver.


They say they do:

http://cz-usa.com/about-dan-wesson/

Joe

[257 Shooter]

They have that link anouncing they bought DW but if you look at the products they offer you will only see DW .45's. No revolvers.

[StarMetal]

They have that link anouncing they bought DW but if you look at the products they offer you will only see DW .45's. No revolvers.


I noticed that, but they keep that up on their website for some reason. If you wish I can try find out about as I have indirect contact with a CZ dealer. Their European website is totally different in products too.

Joe

[257 Shooter]

Joe, Please do because I would like to get a 6" barrel for my DW .41 Mag.

[StarMetal]

Joe, Please do because I would like to get a 6" barrel for my DW .41 Mag.

I'll try for you. First have you tried here: http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=1320z14

Joe

[44man]

Be careful when you tighten the barrel nuts, you can screw them up fast. A lot of guys tighten them more after shooting, then can't remove them later to change barrels.
When you have one super tight, take a piece of hose that will go into the forcing cone, put a funnel on the end and pour boiling water through the barrel. The nut should come right off.