Set screw design

[bootsnthejeep]

Ok, as per a few of my other threads, I'm in the midst of giving some of my moulds a much overdue tuneup.

Involved are three H&G moulds and a Lyman 429421 that needs a lot of TLC.

Anyway, while I'm at it, the sprue plate pivot bolts are buggered up from the set screws. And of course the set screws don't take a good bight against the bolt anymore.

Add to this my loathing on a biblical scale for slotted machine screws, I'm wont to replace everything with allen heads. Sprue plates are going to get trued up as well, and with the new bolts, ditch the stupid lock washers on the Lymans, new pivot bolts and set screws, some kroil and some bullplate, I'll be doing you-know-what in tall cotton.

ANYWAY, looking for ideas and what people have done as far as improvements on the set screw idea. The H&G has a pretty good depth hole for the set screws, the Lyman not as much. I think I saw Buckshot mention a brass "button" in between the pivot bolt and the set screw. I don't like the idea of the steel-on-steel idea. With as buggered as these bolts are, I'm amazed I got them out without ruining the threads. So, what's the good combination? Piece of brass rod between the bolt and set screw? Brass set screw? Try to find the sweet spot on the pivot bolt and then machine a flat surface on the bolt where the set screw goes? Who's had luck with what?

Boots

[BeeMan]

A piece of lead shot or a brass disc will protect the pivot bolt from the set screw. I would not put a flat on the pivot bolt - too difficult to get it indexed exactly right.

[JSnover]

Yep. That bit of lead or brass is called a Thread Saver. Clever, eh?
A brass screw should also work.

[HORNET]

Part of the pull chain from a light switch also works. You may as well go for stainless on the new screws when possible. You should be able to find a couple of thin flat washers and a wave washer for the Lyman to replace the stupid lock washer (try MSC). Check out the venting, drive out the pins, deburr the pin holes (both sides), flat lap the mold faces (lightly), and reset the pins to the proper height, maybe a light Lee-menting lap to remove burrs, and they should be ready to cruise.
Hint: I sometimes cut a vent groove from the top to the bottom of the blocks between the cavities on 2 cav's so the first boolit cast doesn't block half the venting of the second cavity. It can make a big difference but voids any warranty, your choice.

[dominicfortune00]

IIRC, you can get brass tipped steel setscrews from somewhere, but I don't remember where right now.

You can get nylon tipped ones also, but I don't know how they would stand up to the heat.

[ANeat]

Im not sure how the parts interchange between Ballisti-cast and older H&G stuff but there (Ballisti-Cast) molds have all allen head screws.

On the sprue retaining screw they have an unthreaded portion on the screw that the setscrew bears down on so no threads are damaged

[Echo]

All my set-screws seat on #6 shot.

[HeavyMetal]

I've used the individual links of a light pull, brass of course, a pair of cutters can seperate a link fast and brass won't melt in the threads.

I only do this on molds, which is rare, that spin the sprue plate bolt after I tune them up. I bet I only have 3 molds so equiped at this time.

[geargnasher]

Suit yourself on preferring the Allen head. If I had my 'druthers I'd go back in time and shove every Allen head screw, setbolt, wrench, and socket up Mr. Allen's behind. Then I'd kidnap the guy that invented the Torks-Plus system and unleash HIM on the world at about 1880, that way I could have all those days of my life spent drilling out frozen Allen setbolts back!

Gear

[JIMinPHX]

You can get brass tipped set screws from places like McMaster Carr or MSC. I find that it is often best to bust off the brass tip & throw it in the hole in front of the set screw if it is going to bear down on threads. You can leave it intact if it is going to bear down on a smooth surface.

[bootsnthejeep]

I'm gonna see what I can find for soft brass rod. Got some brazing rod, but its a little too small in diameter, need about 1/8". Got my stainless allen heads yesterday. Well, with one exception. Anybody know of a replacement for that big-shouldered sprue pivot bolt on a Lyman mould? 10-32 thread if I recall correctly, but its got a 1/4" shoulder for the sprue plate hole.

[JIMinPHX]

I think that places like Midway sell mold rebuild kits that have the shoulder screw, the sprew plate & maybe a setscrew & washer or something like that.

[tommygirlMT]

Suit yourself on preferring the Allen head. If I had my 'druthers I'd go back in time and shove every Allen head screw, setbolt, wrench, and socket up Mr. Allen's behind. Then I'd kidnap the guy that invented the Torks-Plus system and unleash HIM on the world at about 1880, that way I could have all those days of my life spent drilling out frozen Allen setbolts back!

Gear

If I ever get my time machine to work correctly (so far just seems to waste time) then I'll lone it to you to accomplish that proposition you have there.

[geargnasher]

Glad somebody shares my pain.

Gear

[JIMinPHX]

I guess that none of you guys have ever seen those tapered hex tools that you hammer into a rounded out Allen head to get them out when they are stuck? They actually work pretty good.

On top of that, if you get a production grade Allen wrench to begin with, then you will find that the Allens don't round out so easily in the first place. The stuff that you get from Sears or Snap-on are not production grade. Production grade tools are much harder. The difference is like night & day. Unfortunately, they ain't cheap.