lee auto disk measure

[hiram]

A friend gave me a Lee auto disk powder measure with the double disk feature. I have read good and not so good. If I upgrade with the pro kit, I get a chain thingy that I don't need, there is no teflon and polymer coated thingies.

I haven't used it yet and it is new.

You get a riser attachment and the double disk feature(I already have the 2X disk feature).

Who here has upgraded and was it worth it?

[JeffinNZ]

Not sure about the upgrade but the Autodisc I bought 2nd hand is worth it's weight in gold. No more messing around with scales and adjusting measures for sub 23gr loads.

[bedwards]

Its well worth upgrading although I like the adjustable charge bar in mine. The problem with the adjustable one, is it only goes up to a certain size.

be

[plus1hdcp]

I use the pro auto-disk powder measure and am more than pleased with the charges. With this in mind, I do NOT use the powder disks but the adjustable charge bar. I have thrown charges up to 24 gr of H335. This is about the max charge, the disks would be required above this range but I do not have dies for anything larger than .223 Rem.

I do not use the chain thingy! I did upgrade because the hopper was stripped at the screws which was caused inconsistent throws due to leakage. The swivel attachment is nice to get the hopper positioned away from the primer tray.

Hope this helps.

[jimkim]

I upgraded mine. That adjustable charge-bar is the bees-knees. I also like the on-off feature.

[JesterGrin_1]

I have found my pro to work well EXCEPT for H-110 or W-296.

[jonk]

I like mine but find it bridges with small charges of flake powder.

[hiram]

Is there an adjustment on there?

With the rifle charging die touching the shellholder, using a 30-30 case, the disk does not travel out to the end of the base. When I look into the disk, I see the bottom edge of the base. How can I get the disk to travel as far as it is suppose to?

With a 44-40 charging die, all is well as long as the case is run all the way into the die. If you want less flare on the case mouth, and back the die off a little, the disk does not travel to the edge of the base.

[jimkim]

Is there an adjustment on there?

With the rifle charging die touching the shellholder, using a 30-30 case, the disk does not travel out to the end of the base. When I look into the disk, I see the bottom edge of the base. How can I get the disk to travel as far as it is suppose to?

With a 44-40 charging die, all is well as long as the case is run all the way into the die. If you want less flare on the case mouth, and back the die off a little, the disk does not travel to the edge of the base.

It sounds like you need the Rifle Charging die. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=792057&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=9315

[hiram]

I have a rifle charging die and a 44-40 charging die.

What about getting the disk to travel completely over the drop tube instead of most of the way? Any way to adjust????

[gasboffer]

You need to get the number you want to use in line with the hole. The whole disc should be all the way to the back of the fixture. There's a slot in the bottom of the disc next to the hole you want to use. You can put it in there with the slot for the charge hole that is opposite the one you want to use, don't do that. I reread this and realize it is clear as mud. Anyway put the disc as far away from the drop tube so it will line up with the back of the fixture.
Clyde

[hiram]

The unit works. I have the disk set correctly. It slides. The question is: Getting to go full forward to (not 90%) to drop the powder.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Sounds like you need to use a case when adjusting it. Remember, it's a CASE ACTIVATED powder drop, not a die. If you'll install a case at that position, then screw the powder "die" down until it moves the disk the proper amount, I think you'll achieve your goal.

Dave

[GP100man]

i took a round file & "adjusted " mine a little , then took 0000 steel wool & shined the tubes a little .

i`ve never taken the hopper off mine , i just unhook the spring & lift it up until i can change the disc.

& i treat all my powder handling tools with powdered graphite!!

[bedwards]

Mine doesn't go full foward on some cases either. I don't understand why it is designed this way, but it does work. I think longer cases will make it go full foward. I don't think it has to go full foward to get a good drop. I weigh mine to double check them, and it never seems to fail to drop the same.

be

[Heavy lead]

Screw the die in farther until you get a full travel on the disc.

[hiram]

Just to let you know exactly what I have, the die is stamped 'Rifle G2' around the top.

The instructions say screw the die to touch the shellholder. When I do this, a 30-30 is 1/4" short of the end of the base, a .308win is good, and a 30-06 overshoots. The die has a 30 cal insert. Can you buy other caliber inserts--I don't see them in the catalog.

You guys have been most helpful. Thanks.

[dromia]

You need to adujst the depth of the charging die in the press with the top of the stroke so that the the disc moves fully over the drop hole.

[geargnasher]

You need to adujst the depth of the charging die in the press with the top of the stroke so that the the disc moves fully over the drop hole.

FINALLY someone understood the question! Heavy Lead got it too.

There are 2 adjustments to make: One is expander die body depth in the top plate and the other is the plunger depth adjusted by screwing the whole charger base in or out of the die. It will be correct to have the o-ring slightly compressed in most cases, but I've had to double-stack them before to get the correct amount of disc movement without over-expanding the case mouth.

As to "is the upgrade kit worth it?" part, the adjustable charge disc and riser are the only real improvements you'll get out of it and they can be had separately for cheaper. If you really want to upgrade, just buy an Autodisc Pro.

+1 on the graphite, makes things work better.

If you really want to fix the adjustment issue, try this:

3/8" NPT is the same thread pitch (IIRC 14/") as the top of the Lee PTE die and the male threads on the disc charger. The charger screws right into the 3/8X1/2 reducer with a little play until snugged against it's o-ring, however the 3/8 all-thread nipple at the bottom had to have the taper cut out of it by running a 5/8X14 die over it to squeeze it for about 5 threads. The 7/16" hard brass tube was expanded with either a .44 or .45 expander plug (can't remember) after heating he tube red-hot. The hobby dept. brass tube perfectly fits inside all my Lee PTE expanders and is polished on the bottom end to prevent powder hang-ups. It does fit inside the 3/8 pipe but binds on the inner weld seam so that's why I used the reducers and just reamed the seam out of the short nipple on the bottom.

The pipe thread construction allows for fine-tuning the stroke so the powder disc travels the correct distance. Can you tell I was sick and tired of the stupid powder measure always interfering with the other dies? Midway and Midsouth were both out of stock on Lee's autodisc risers at the time I got the press, so I just made my own. Cost would have been about $4 if I had chosen to use just a 3/8 X 6" nipple and ream the seam through the whole pipe. I like the 8" clearance better anyway, and boy can you hear the powder charge hit the case head when it falls from this baby!

[hiram]

I think I also figured out my problem--I looked through the Lee Catalog and the I found a rifle die for flaring case mouths. The only rifle for powder charging and mouth flaring seems to be for 22 centerfire. I had place the mouth flaring from my 30 carb powder die in the rifle die to try to get it to work for rifles like the powder/expading dies work for short cases. I may have read the catalog wrong, but I don't think so.

Gearnasher---I like your idea--I'm going to play with it.

Thanks

[evan price]

Honestly, I use my Autodisks on everything. I did my load development based on certain powders and bullets and once I had everything the way I wanted, if I did not have a disk cavity that gave me what I wanted, I made my own.

I bought some extra disks on eBay cheap a year or two ago and when I need my own custom disks I just use a round file and ream them out a bit bigger. You need to make sure that the edge where the disk wipes on the bottom of the hopper is flat and true and square. Otherwise, no problems. Oh, and mark the new sized disks PERMANENTLY to indicate that they are not original anymore.

I also drill and install a screw in through the side of the cavity to decrease powder volume if I need to, as well.

Remember if reaming oversize a little goes a long way, check a lot of throws after making a small change before going hog wild with the file.

With proper setup I get a very accurate and repeatable drop from my Lee measures.

I prefer the older style with the spring return arm, not the chain, but if you use the spring return you just need to be careful that you do not double-throw a charge because it will reset itself, unlike the chain setup which has to have the press arm returned to reset it. Basically, if I get a problem midstroke I stop and dump that case that was in the charging station back in the hopper regardless.

I load pistol and .223 on my progressive with this, and the large rifle and .44 mag on my turret. The large rifle stuff I use the double-disk setup with calibrated disks, or choose a cavity that drops 1/2 of the charge and double throw it.

[JesterGrin_1]

Evan Price I sure wish mine worked well with H-110 or W-296 for my .357 and .44 Mag. So what powder for these have you found that work in this measure?

[35remington]

The Pro Auto Disk with the elastomer wiper works fine on any and all ball powders.

One caution.

When charges of flake powder get below 3.5 grains, the small cavity in the Auto Disk measures, including the Pro Auto Disk, will bridge the large flake powder (e.g. Unique, 700X, Red Dot, etc.) in the small cavity and starts throwing squibs or partial charges. When in the three grain range about one charge in 40 or 60 will contain a squib.

Cure in this case is to use a finer metering powder with smaller flakes or granules, like Bullseye, W231, WST, Universal, etc.

For the small calibers like .380 and .32, and light target charges in .38 Spl. you're best advised to stay away from small charges in the Auto Disks that use larger granuled flake powders.

[smith52]

I started off with the Auto Disk but, had trouble with the hopper screw holes stripping out. So I just bought the Pro Auto Disk, it works great. I have not had much luck the adjustible charge bar and preferr to just use the disks. The only time I've had it throw inconsistant charge is when metering 2.5gr of Clay's but, even then it's maybe 1 in 25 cases. Never tried the double disk set up, when I get charges larger than any of the single disk well meter I use my Dillon powder measure or my Lyman #55 powder measure.

[Safeshot]

Yes, the upgrade is worth it - or get a new powder measure as recommended above, in my opinion, at least on a Lee pro 1000. (Note: I only load one pistol caliber on the Lee Pro 100.) I had trouble with the powder measure "hanging" and not "picking up a powder charge", resulting in a round without powder (if I did not "catch" it). I like the "chain return thingy". I have not had any problems with it. You can easily see if it is working every time. The "swivel" attaching feature is nice (also as mentioned above). I also added a LED light (Walmart - $3 with batteries) shinning into the case so that I can easily see that there is a powder charge in the case before placing a bullet in the case for seating. The graphite lubrication suggestion,above, is good also. I have never used the adjustable "disk replacement" insert.

[hiram]

gearnasher--

do you anticipate problems if I used a 3/8 nipple with a coupler on the top? The lower part of the nipple would screw right into the charger die.

I would have to search for the inside tube. !/4" nipple is a little small.

[geargnasher]

gearnasher--

do you anticipate problems if I used a 3/8 nipple with a coupler on the top? The lower part of the nipple would screw right into the charger die.

I would have to search for the inside tube. !/4" nipple is a little small.

I anticipate 2 problems, both easily overcome if you want to mess with it. First, the 3/8" nipple (at least the chinese-made one I used) won't thread directly into the charging die unless you squeeze the taper out of the threads with a 5/8"X 14 (iirc) die. You may want to take your charging die to the hardware store and see if you can get lucky. The die costs more than an autodisc Pro unless you can borrow one or already have one as I did.

The other problem is that mose galvanized or iron pipe has a thick weld seam on the inside which must be reamed or drilled out in order for the correct size tube to be inserted through it without binding. If you put a coupler on top that will be fine, the space between the end of the charger base threads and the end of the nipple *should* be adequate to clear a bell seat on the end of the drop tube.

I really recommend using something exactly like what I did for a drop-tube extension because that's about all there is clearance for unless you can come up with something equivalent size. I just went and measured the thin-wall brass tube I got for mine and it's about .0015" under 1/2" OD, I think it's actually 12mm. Is there anything that ISN'T made in China? It fits perfectly inside the expander plug cup.

If you're interested I can just make you one and send it to you if you'll cover shipping and materials, (probably about $7 total) I'll try to make one with just 3/8" pipe like you were saying.

Pm me if interested.

Gear

[hiram]

Thanks for the clarifications. I have a lathe and can alter some tubing for fit.

Thank you again for the info.

Hiram

[geargnasher]

No problem. Maybe this pic will help, too, you can see better how the 3/8" npt threads had to be recut and the end of the brass tube expanded to slip over the measure's drop spout. Oughta be cake with a lathe! Please post results if you make one.

Gear

[bertus]

A friend of mine and I solved the weight problems with the lee auto disk as follows:

set up your powderdisk with a disk and measure a charge of powder and check it with a scale.
I repeat this for 10 times to have a reliable reading.

divide the hole size by the weight
I used N330 with hole size .37 wich gives 3.3 grains
so .37/3.3=.112 rounded off. the .112 I call the Factor (f)
if you multiply the Factor(F) by the weight you get a figure very close to the hole size (.112*3.3=0.3696) rouded of that is .37

I hope this is useful for you guys.

Regards,
Oscar

[evan price]

Evan Price I sure wish mine worked well with H-110 or W-296 for my .357 and .44 Mag. So what powder for these have you found that work in this measure?

I load all my full-power Magnums with AA#9. It's a tiny ball like H335. Flows like water.

[hiram]

OK-- finished all the parts. I just have to cut the drop tube to the correct length. The drop tube is left over aluminum tube from my bp drop tube. Bought in home depot, 1/2 diam. I was able to get the seam out of the short nipple and have a great slide fit between the nipple and the tube. On the top end of the tube I used a flaring tool and flared the end open for the powder tube from the hopper to seat into. I removed alot of play in the 3" nipple with the two o-rings. They are a very snug fit but must be thin to slide in the nipple. they are ID 3/8, OD 1/2.

[Storydude]

I have to get me one of these drops.....

[JesterGrin_1]

This might be a dumb question lol. But what does this home made thingamajig do that the Lee extension will not do?

[hiram]

I have adjustment in disk travel by screwing the nipple in and out of the reducers.

[geargnasher]

This might be a dumb question lol. But what does this home made thingamajig do that the Lee extension will not do?

Like Hiram said, it is adjustable, which is why I offered the idea in the first place to solve his adjustment issue, and as a bonus it gets the cumbersome measure way up and out of the way of the other dies in the toolhead, especially the primer feed on a Lee turret.

It would be possible to make the same disc travel adjustment with the Lee extender by adding shims either beneath or above the extender, if you happened to have one. I didn't and eveyone was sold out when I decided to try to make my Turret press work with RCBS seating dies and it was a no-go as far as interference with the measure, plus even the Lee dies interfere sometimes and the primer pan always gets jammed against the measure as you index.

I feel that Lee should include the extender as essential equipment with all their turret presses and add on the cost, but since they won't ingenious folks like us make our own solutions.

Gear

[geargnasher]

OK-- finished all the parts. I just have to cut the drop tube to the correct length. The drop tube is left over aluminum tube from my bp drop tube. Bought in home depot, 1/2 diam. I was able to get the seam out of the short nipple and have a great slide fit between the nipple and the tube. On the top end of the tube I used a flaring tool and flared the end open for the powder tube from the hopper to seat into. I removed alot of play in the 3" nipple with the two o-rings. They are a very snug fit but must be thin to slide in the nipple. they are ID 3/8, OD 1/2.

Nice! Looks like it ought to work fine when you get the final tube length sorted out.

This may help: My drop tube protrudes 13/16" beyond the bottom nipple when fully seated over the measure's drop tube and the measure is screwed into the upper reducer bell snugly against the o-ring. Of course your milage may vary, as they say.

Does the nipple you're using fit your expander die as is or did you tweak it?

I got around the o-ring solution you have by making an actual expanded seat about 3/8" deep that slips over the measure's drop tube and kind of pilots on it at the top and the expander plug onthe bottom. Being captured and under tension at all times it can neither slip out of place nor cause a powder hang-up.

Now, I want to see if I you can come up with a way to make a window in the middle of the pipe, make the drop tube out of clear acrylic plastic with a plastic ball-valve near the bottom of the window, graduation marks above the valve, one could drop the charge into the tube, leave the ram fully up, check the charge in the tube against a set line (say, a thin 0-ring around the tube as a moveable marker), then turn the valve to drop the verified charge into the case. I would only use this extra step for some applications, but sometimes it would be nice to actually volume-check each charge before it's dropped.

Another solution I've been working on is a periscope/magnifier/illuminator that I could peer into to check the volume in the case just prior to putting the boolit on top.

Gear

[JesterGrin_1]

I have to Lee Stand Off Die and I have never had a problem with them on the Lee Die set. The only problem I have with the Pro Disc is that I can not use H-110 or W-296 as it is just too fine of a powder. It leaks and will not give consistant charges.

[hiram]

I had a 3/8 pipe tap, no die. I ran the tap into the die about 3 turns and that allowed the nipple to screw in.

A window and valve--version 2. In a 1/2" nipple, a small charge would very hard to calibrate because it would spread out over a large area.

Whenever you create/do a project, its fun and a learning experience.

[hiram]

Try this to stop the leakage:

I saw a space between the disk and the powder hopper. I took a piece of wallpaper that had a plastic finish on one side. I cut the wall paper to leave a space for powder to drop and used a hole punch to punch holes that lined up to pins under the disk. The wallpaper goes under the disk, plastic side down, which is the smooth side to slide over the powder charger base. disk on top, reassemble, and the space between the disk and hopper disappeared.

Do you want a picture??

[TAWILDCATT]

HIRAM said he could not get the die so he was in a hurry to load so made the extention. is that right HIRAM??
I use midsouthshooters.com and dont have to much delay.and besides their about 30% of list.

[geargnasher]

I've encountered the spillage issue with powder due to excessive clearance, easily fixed that one too with a quick dressing of the bottom of the hopper on 400-grit and glass, then added Beagling tape to the top of the disc and cut out the slots and drop holes. Also added a pull ring to the spring so I can easily release it and change discs by sliding them out past the drop hole.

The thing that continues to amaze me about the Autodisc measure is it's accuracy and consistency. I've used it with dozens of weights and half a dozen powders and they have ALWAYS been right on the money. Somebody did their homework on those disc cavity volumes and accompanying charts. Even before I fixed the clearance issue mine had and it was slinging powder everywhere the charge weights were within 1/20th of a grain! I keep checking in disbelief, but it is hands down the most accurate dispenser I've used. Kinda burns me that I just shelled out for a Little Dandy awhile back and it is only accurate to 1/10th grain if you're careful.

Gear

Gear

[hiram]

I had the rifle die. When I set it up, the disk did not travel all the way. Now it does.