RCBS PRO-MELT won't..........

[WILCO]

dispense!!! I borrowed this unit from a friend at work after my hot plate crapped out over the weekend. I cleaned it out, filled it up with muffin ingots and after the dross was ready, the damn thing wouldn't let the lead flow. I figured the valve was stopped up, so I heated the nozzle with a torch and managed to scorch the paint. Then I tapped the nozzle lightly with some grit and two shot sized drips falling out. Ended up using a ladle to empty it out again and cleaned the pot as best I could. Any ideas on what to do??????? As a side note, I went and bought a new hot plate Saturday night and after an hour of being on high, it didn't even melt a lead muffin........

[mike in co]

set it on high ??? they flow well most times, i'd guess you tried to go low temp.

[plumber]

Empty the pot, and run a piece of hot 14 gauge wire up through the hole. Works when my pot cruds up.

[WILCO]

set it on high ???

Yeah, I had it on high and the pot got cherry red after a spell.......

[WILCO]

Empty the pot, and run a piece of hot 14 gauge wire up through the hole. Works when my pot cruds up.

I ran a piece of wire through it that wasn't heated. It seemed to go through, but the lead still wouldn't flow......

[Just Duke]

Send it to RCBS.

[Geraldo]

Nothing else to add on the RCBS, but your new hot plate probably has a safety that shuts it off if it's run on high constantly so it cycles on/off over that length of time.

[Matt_G]

Call RCBS as mentioned. They'll get it sorted for you.

At least that hotplate won't go to waste. It will be great for preheating your moulds.
I turn mine up to a touch under medium and set the mould on it while the lead is melting. (Lyman and RCBS moulds)
I get good boolits from the first pour usually. They are always good by the third pour.

Just be sure and run that hotplate off a different circuit than your pot once that issue is fixed.
Both of 'em combined will be too much amperage for a standard 15 amp circuit. That is just pushing it too hard.
ProMelt = 800 watts
Hotplate is probably 750 watts.
1550 watts/110 volts = 14.09 amps

[Edubya]

I have a RCBS and have had similar problems several times. I turn the pot upside down on an old skillet that will hold the contents and turn it on for long enough to melt any lead then with a paper clip and pliers (while it's still hot) stick the paper clip into the spigot. The lead will fall out before it's melted and what little does melt will freeze quickly. You'll have a large piece that will barely fit back into the promelt pot.
I haven't figured out what is plugging it but am open to suggestions.
EW

[ANeat]

Also make sure the screw is backed out enough that sets how far the valve will open. If its screwed down far enough it wont open at all

[cajun shooter]

Take a propane torch and direct the flame at the pour spout. Mine freezes all the time and this clears it up.

[Sprue]

It always requires a few/several extra minutes after the lead is liquified, to get things flowing via the spout. And +1 to Aneats comment above.

[Doc_Stihl]

Also make sure the screw is backed out enough that sets how far the valve will open. If its screwed down far enough it wont open at all

+1. I paniced when I borrowd an RCBS only to find out the screw was in too far.

[WILCO]

Thanks for the input guys!
I'm gonna tinker with it a little more and if I can't get it going, I'll just take it back to my friend for him to sort out. I still have to tell him I scorched the paint while heating the pour spout.........:shock:

[mold maker]

My Lyman has a bad scorch from the torch treatment. I finally added a wind shield around the base, and some insulation around the pour spout, both above and below the cover. I now start with a too hot melt, and reduce it to working temps.
So far that's solved the problem. I imagine both brands, have the same problem. The heating element is too far from the exposed spout. If the (exposed) spout is cold, it won't matter how hot the melt is.