Undersize cherry II

[44man]

I know you all read about me freezing the mould and re-cutting my mould. I had another problem from the beginning in that the two halves of the boolit were not in line even though the outside of the blocks were perfect. I had a little edge where the parting line is. I don't have any idea why this happened when I cut the blocks.
I chucked them back in the vise and using shim stock, I moved one block enough so that turning the cherry by hand it would just cut the high spots. Not only is the boolit larger but it is now rounder.
I shot 10 shots today out of my BFR 45-70 revolver at 50 yd's. I got a little verticle from the bag under the butt making the barrel rise a little different shot to shot but here is the target.

[44man]

This also relates to the problem I had with the mainspring getting weak and blowing groups. I mentioned that I had put a shim under the spring to make it stronger. This tightened the groups but not enough. This above group was shot using Federal large pistol magnum primers which have the heat but a softer cup which is easier to fire with a single action. I am now happy with the gun again.

[Dale53]

44man;
>>>I am now happy with the gun again.<<<

I would hope so:mrgreen:

Good shootin'!

Dale53

[Bucks Owin]

This also relates to the problem I had with the mainspring getting weak and blowing groups. I mentioned that I had put a shim under the spring to make it stronger. This tightened the groups but not enough. This above group was shot using Federal large pistol magnum primers which have the heat but a softer cup which is easier to fire with a single action. I am now happy with the gun again.


Nice group!

Do you prefer Fed primers over Winchester? I've recently moved away from CCI for my handgun loads (and eliminated FTFs and improved accuracy as a bonus) but haven't settled on the "right" alternative. Seems a little odd that WLPs are only made in one "flavor" and a mag version is not needed.....

Otherwise they seem consistent velocity-wise...


Dennis

[44man]

I have always had good luck with Federal primers. When I work up a decent load I don't like to change the primer which is almost the same as changing the powder, not as bad maybe, but it sometimes requires working the load a little again. I have always considered it a mistake to have a good load and just swap the primer to see what it does because you change the burn rate of the powder and the primer pressure in the case. I don't like pressure but want a lot of heat.
I always use a Federal 150 in the .44 and .45 instead of magnum primers because the pressure increase can move the boolit different amounts before a good burn starts. This changes the internal capacity from shot to shot and accuracy will be poor. Most think these calibers have large cases, they really don't and the LP mag primer is very large for them. When I get to the .475, the situation reverses and I need the mag primer.
I have used every make of primer over the years and as long as a load is worked with one, they were all good and that primer had to be used all the time. I just settled on Federal a long time ago and I like them.
In my 45-70 revolver, rifle primers were working good until the groups went south. I have shot thousands of rounds and noticed the hammer was not hitting as hard even though all shells fired. I shimmed the spring and it helped but the thing that turned it around was the LP mag that still gives me the heat but is easier to fire. I should buy a bunch of new springs but they just don't hold pressure long enough so the easy fix is the primer. The gun shoots much better then I can hold it.
One thing most guys never think of is the mainspring power. By switching to a primer with a harder or thicker cup in a gun with marginal spring tension, the groups will suffer greatly and the blame goes to the primer.
When I shot silhouette I would change my Ruger mainspring every year. This is the easiest and cheapest way to keep a gun accurate.

[Bucks Owin]

Thanks for the thoughtful reply amigo....

Dennis