Squeaky and Jerky…

[BCB]

I am sizing some 7mm-08 cases using Lyman Spray Lube…

I spray the inside of the die and let it dry as instructed…

I lightly coat the cases…

When I size them, it takes considerable force, it is not a smooth motion and the squeaking is loud…

I can’t remember ever having this problem when using this stuff—the dies are new…

Any thoughts?

Thanks…BCB

[EMC45]

Case neck.....Take a Qtip and wipe every 5th or so one in the neck. It will help then re wipe after all is done.

[Bret4207]

Case neck.....Take a Qtip and wipe every 5th or so one in the neck. It will help then re wipe after all is done.

+1. Also, you did clean the die at some point before using it, right? Always clean your new or new/used dies with a solvent before using them.

[BCB]

The squeaking is BEFORE the neck would come in contact with the neck expander. I have had the problem you guys mentioned with .270 cases and a bit of graphite stopped that. This squeaking is during the entire sizing process...

Maybe that explains the problem a bit better...

I will clean the inside of the die with solvent as see if that helps...

Thanks...BCB

[BCB]

I just size another one WITHOUT the expander plug--same irritating noise...

I also just cleaned the inside of the die with brake solvent and dried it...

I sprayed a bit of Lyman in it and I am now letting it dry as per instructions..,

I shall return...

BCB

[BCB]

Another FLASH...

I just lubed 2 of the cases with the "old-I-Hate-It" RCBS Lube Pad--Remember rolling the cases on it...

No more squeaky, squeaky, squeaky...

I wonder if that spray lube can "go bad" just sitting around?

I have been loading mostly straight wall cases and the carbide never causes a problem...

BCB

[cajun shooter]

Try a lube like Dillon's or make your own that contains lanolin. No squeaky, no mess, easy to wipe before boxing.

[Rocky Raab]

At the risk of sounding like a pest or a fanatic on this, one word: Imperial.

All you do is lightly swipe your fingertips over the stuff every ten cases or so, and simply handle the brass as usual. No muss, no fuss, no overspray, no waiting. And ONE five-dollar can of the stuff will last you the rest of your reloading lifetime, probably.

[BCB]

Thanks guys...

I have used the spray stuff for some time, and it always seems to be a challenge...

If I remember correctly, it seemed better when it first hit the market...

I am definately going to try some other brand and different type of appliction, as I have a small order to place to Midway or Midsouth...

SO, keep the suggestions coming...

BCB

[scb]

At the risk of sounding like a pest or a fanatic on this, one word: Imperial. .

+1

It seemed like when I used spray lube there was a ball bearing in the can to to help mix up lube with the carrier when one shook the can. Perhaps the lube has separated out and is sitting in the bottom of the can.

[mdi]

In the mean time while waiting for your order to arrive, try Mink Oil Boot Dressing. Sure you get your hand(s) oily but it works quite well (and it softens your hands!). I got a small jar for about $3.00 from Walgreen's, dab some on my fingers, roll the case between my fingers giving the case a light coat, and size. I have a 357 steel die that I use Mink Oil in exclusively, and do a lot of .223 cases too.

[EMC45]

Another vote for Imperial!!!

[jsizemore]

Imperial!!!

[Navahojoe]

I had 1000 LC .308 brass to reload. I was using Lee resizing lube. I had a bunch of problems from broke decapper rods on my RCBS dies and stuck cases. :violin: What a Bitxh! I got out the ole RCBS lube pad, smeared some RCBS Lube on and stopped my problem with stuck brass. Also, another + for Imperial . That is some slick stuff. I wipe a q tip in the Imperial and about every fifth case, I run the q tip into the neckof the brass. No more squeeking and jerking.
By the way, RCBS sent me three depriming rods, one at a time, no problem. Then I switched over to my Lee universal depriming die and stopped breaking pins on the military crimp.
regards,
NavahoeJoe :castmine:

[1hole]

I believe spray lubes work great on handgun cases to be run into carbide dies.

I've done a LOT of experimenting with conventional case lubes for many years, using both commercial and alternative lubes. I've not found any commercial type to be poor if applied correctly. What differs is the application ease and cleanliness of the application.

I prefer Lee's (the white stuff in a tube) or one of the soft waxes, Imperial or Unique, applied with the finger tips as I pick each case up for sizing. Kiwi "Mink Oil" boot treatment is a virtual duplicate of Imperial, easier to find too. Cleaning my fingers, or cases for that matter, is easy enough with a light splash of denatured alcohol on a paper towel.

[bisley45]

At the risk of sounding like a pest or a fanatic on this, one word: Imperial.

All you do is lightly swipe your fingertips over the stuff every ten cases or so, and simply handle the brass as usual. No muss, no fuss, no overspray, no waiting. And ONE five-dollar can of the stuff will last you the rest of your reloading lifetime, probably.

I was going to say the same thing i bought mine about 8 years ago and it is still 3/4th full try it you will love it

[carpetman]

I dont know--not a chemist--I hear that GB Wire Lube--which I bought at Lowes about $5 per qt --is the same as Lee Lube which is about same price for 4 oz. I always just put some on my hand and handling the case lubed them but I did get the expander ball sraunch (if thats a word it's the right one--if not a word it should be). Dale 53 dilutes the Lee lube---I think you could dilute the GB with water or alcohol--he then submerges the cases and lets them sit overnight--he says no more expander ball noise. Haven't done that yet--but I will.

[shotman]

the Frankfort spray lube that midway sells works good for a lot of cases I stand the rifle cases up and spray into the necks than lay them down and do the out side and shake in a cardboard box. It takes about 5 min and they are ready to size. The case cleaner I use cleans it off and they are ready to dry.
I also ++1 for the imperial its my go to for small lots or a remake job. As said one little can will last years.
The wire lube is ok it will wash off with water BUT you need to use and wash the dies because it will rust them

[Flinchrock]

In the mean time while waiting for your order to arrive, try Mink Oil Boot Dressing. Sure you get your hand(s) oily but it works quite well (and it softens your hands!). I got a small jar for about $3.00 from Walgreen's, dab some on my fingers, roll the case between my fingers giving the case a light coat, and size. I have a 357 steel die that I use Mink Oil in exclusively, and do a lot of .223 cases too.

He's right,,,I tried a little mink oil from track of the wolf a while back, just as an experiment, and it turned out to be the easiest and best case lube I ever tried!!

[primersp]

like the others imperial

[BCB]

Imperial seems to be getting rave reviews!...

Is it water soluable as I put my sized cases in a plastic container with hot water and that orange smelling hand cleaner. I then shake it and then rinse thoruoughly. From there I put them in the oven for about 10 minutes on 250 and they dry nicely if I want to use them immediately...

The mink oils I am sure would work, but how do you clean it off as it is waterproofing used on shoes...

Thanks again...BCB

[Spector]

I have not touched my can of spray lube since I found Imperial Sizing Die Wax several years ago. I love the stuff.........Mike

[Echo]

STP (CD2 in my case)- drop a small glob on one hand, smear around on both hands, reach into the Kool-Whip bowl full of brass and play around for 15 seconds or so, go inside and wash the hands, come back and have at it. Never a squeek, never a stuck case.

[dragonrider]

The Lyman stuff goes bad when it gets old, had the problem you are having and switched to Dillon, no problems since. I have tried the Imperial but would still rather use the Dillon. Don't know what it is made of, some say anhydrous lanolin diluted with something, I have no idea but it works great.