WW vs Lyman #2

[plumber]

I have been casting with straight WW, bt wonderig if I should cut it to make Lyman#2? This would definatly give me the advantage of having 10% more bullet material. But is this a better alloy? Ive got a good supply of 50/50, pure lead, and tin solder. I'm feeling creative and want to melt something. If I could add stuff that would be un useable on its own to get me more usable, possibly better material that would be great. Right now Im casting for 45ACP, 357 mag,and 9mm. I havent had any issurs with the WW. Sometimes it eeems I've got to get the molds really hot to get good fill out. Looking for ideas!

[geargnasher]

Lyman #2 is supposed to be 5% tin, 5% antimony, 90% lead.

WW varies, but is 3-4% antimony, less than .5% tin, and maybe some arsenic and trace elements with the balance being lead.

If you haven't had issues with WW (and you shouldn't with those calibers) why waste tin? I would add tin to WW until I get good fillout (1-2%) but that's it.

Gear

[Gunslinger]

For better fill-out you can also run your pot a bit hotter.....

[plumber]

Lyman #2 is supposed to be 5% tin, 5% antimony, 90% lead.

WW varies, but is 3-4% antimony, less than .5% tin, and maybe some arsenic and trace elements with the balance being lead.

If you haven't had issues with WW (and you shouldn't with those calibers) why waste tin? I would add tin to WW until I get good fillout (1-2%) but that's it.

Gear

I don't have any issues with the WW. My 358156 needs to be real hot to get good fillout, everything else casts quite well.
I keep hearing don't waste the tin, bit I have an abundant supply of tin, 50/50 solder, and pure lead and have no idea what to do with it. Its kind of worthless on it's own, and I'd like to make more useable material.
Is Lyman #2 softer than WW?

[largom]

I would just hold the tin for now. Lead wheel weights are going to disappear in the near future, then you will need your tin.

I am setting on about 60 lbs. of 60/40 solder, 100 lbs. Lino. and 100 lbs. of monotype. It does'nt eat anything so I just hold it for the future.

Larry

[Matt_G]

I'm with Largom.
Save your solder against future lack of WW's.
Unless you can lay in a huge supply of WW's, provided you cast and shoot a lot, you may have to scrounge/buy pure lead.
In other words, get all the WW's you can now, while they are still around.
If nothing else, it will be valuable barter or selling stock in the future.
Just use enough of that solder in your WW"s to get good fillout. (1% to 2%)

Just my 2 cents worth.

[7.62Man]

I am in the north (Canada) and wheel weights are next to impossible to get. Even the scrap yards won't sell them to me. I am now buying my lead from rotometals cost more but is apure product.

[Zbench]

All,

There is a group buy going for folks who would like to buy the kind of mix that Gear mentioned, essentially wheel weights plus 2% tin. Rotometals doesn't have anything like it, especially the added arsenic, so if you think you might want to stock up at a great price, now is the time to do it. Link to the thread located below.

Regards,

Pete

[plumber]

From RTFF, it seems that the 5% Sn is a waste, that the 2% is better. So if I have this right, the Sn is to get better and sharper fillout. 1 pound Sn to 19 pounds pb?

[arcticbreeze]

From RTFF, it seems that the 5% Sn is a waste, that the 2% is better. So if I have this right, the Sn is to get better and sharper fillout. 1 pound Sn to 19 pounds pb?

1lb to 19lb would be 5%, If you want 2% it would be 1lb sn to 49 lb pb.

[plumber]

1lb to 19lb would be 5%, If you want 2% it would be 1lb sn to 49 lb pb.

Thanks, I think I wrote that as I was getting off the short bus.
2% is 2 parts per hundred, simplified 1 part per 50. Duuuhhh!!

As far as the 2% goes, am I correct in assuming I'll get better fill out?

[IHMSA]

Now, let me preface with I don't know $h|+.

Personally, I would recommend you cut your WW with 5% equiv. of 50/50.
This will give you 20-1 (adding 2.5% tin to your alloy).

Remember tin needs to be at least 50% the antimony content for good alloys....no exceptions to this rule if the alloy contains antimony.

Mr. Linotype

[sagacious]

...
As far as the 2% goes, am I correct in assuming I'll get better fill out?

Always check technique before attempting to correct materials. If the technique is deficient, then "better" materials are not a solution.

Before you change your ww alloy composition, make sure you know how to flux your alloy properly, and do so before your pouring session. That alone will help measurably with fill-out. Try that first and report back.

Next, ww alloy usually pours well in 45acp-sized molds. If you still cannot get good fill-out after fluxing, try adding 1/2% tin and pour some bullets. Even such a small addition will usually give visible results if fill-out is a problem. You can increase to 1% and ultimately 2% if needed, but it very well may not be. There is no sense in using more tin than necessary. Good fill-out is the goal-- that's the result we're after.

Hope this helps, good luck.

[acsteve]

I think I just ordered old lyman #2 90-5-5 from rotometals? $2.00/lb. wanted some pure stuff for the 45-70. Have been using WW straight and I like that alot too.

[fredj338]

I don't have any issues with the WW. My 358156 needs to be real hot to get good fillout, everything else casts quite well.
I keep hearing don't waste the tin, bit I have an abundant supply of tin, 50/50 solder, and pure lead and have no idea what to do with it. Its kind of worthless on it's own, and I'd like to make more useable material.
Is Lyman #2 softer than WW?
As far as I know, Lymna #2 is harder than aircooled clipon ww. So you would not want to cut the ww w/ anything but pure lead for extending your alloy. A 50/50 clipon & pure lead works for 1000fps loads. Straight ww upto 1200fps or so & water drop or add lino equiv. to go up form there works for me.