Lee Tumble Lube Mold

[deuceroadster2]

I'm new here, so hello! I just got a Lee TL452-200-SWC and the mold blocks seem extremely loose on the tips of the handles. I have two other Lee TL type molds and none seem as severe as this one.

It is so bad that when casting I have to flop the mold over to get it to close and then the blocks are hard to get lined up properly. The other two molds all I have to do is just close the handles and it goes right back together.

Anyone else ever have a problem like this with any of these TL molds?

[35remington]

Not sure, from your description, what exactly is amiss. The blocks should pivot a bit on the handles to allow the mould halves to line up-this gives them the leeway to adjust the pins on one side of the mould into the mating troughs on the other side of the mould.

I find that when the mould halves don't want to line up and close properly it is most often due to the lack of a small amount of lubricant (VERY light touch of wax or some similar lube) on the locating pins and "V's" on the periphery of the mould. The aluminum gets hot and sticky when the mould is up to casting temperature, and this galling of the surfaces makes the mould difficult to "line up" and close. You'd be surprised how much the Lee moulds will want to misalign when they're not properly lubed. Since the contact points on one side of the blocks are aluminum only, it is especially important that it is lubed and the mould is babied. Never handle them roughly or close them forcefully.

Make sure you lube it, but not so much that the lube gets into the bullet cavities. That usually takes care of any alignment and closing problems.

If that doesn't sound like the solution, you may have to better describe what you mean as "loose." The blocks are attached to the handles with pins driven into the blocks, and they're either firmly in place or they're not. Doesn't seem to leave a lot of explanation for "looseness" of the type you describe.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Deuceroadster,

Is that a six gang mold? I have that same mold in six gang version and I just cast with it the first time the other day. It didn't display anything like what you're describing. It worked really well and seemed nice and tight.

Dave

[Pystis]

deuceroadster2, welcome!

Dave,
I think deuceroadster2 was talking about single or dual cavity moulds. As far as I know, and like you said, six cavity moulds don´t have such problems, as excessive pivot play and tilting blocks and therefor bad alignment.

The problem is not only TL moulds but all LEE´s 1 or 2 cav. moulds. I put some hi-temp silicone sealant to between block and handle to reduce the play. Seems to work fine.
Check out Oldfeller´s sticky post (Lapping 301) on this board.

[Ranch Dog]

If it is a new mold, return it to Lee.

[versifier]

I get the same problem occasionally with Lee double cavity moulds. I just tap the handle hinge when closing it as I would if the boolits aren't falling out when I open it. Some individual moulds seem to be more prone to it than others, especially the smaller, lighter ones for very short boolits like my 311-100-2R. Even well lubed, it often has trouble closing, always has, but it drops perfect boolits so the extra tap just becomes an automatic part of the rhythm of using it, (like the extra taps with the handle of a powder measure to prevent bridging with extruded powders). With the larger single cavity C309-150F & -180R there's no problem, and with the heavier double 358-150R it happens only occasionally. I don't think the TL design of the boolits has anything to do with it, but rather the smaller mass of the mould blocks in the double cavity versions. The TL452-200 has mid-sized blocks, but the holes are pretty big, leaving the total mass of the blocks fairly light. Of course, there is never a problem with the HP moulds as the HP pin acts as an additional guide. I think it is more an issue of the total mass of the blocks than a lube issue per se, i.e. the heavier, the less trouble, but lack of lube certainly can contribute to the problem.

[deuceroadster2]

Thanks for all the replies. The pins are tight in the mold blocks, but the mold blocks still have excessive play in them. I believe this is what is causing the alignment issue when closing the mold back together. I will try to lube it and see if that helps, if not I will contact Lee.

Ranch Dog, It has been a while since I've communicated with you. Good to hear from you.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

deuce,

I think if I were you, I'd try to get the place I bought it from to swap it out for the six gang version of the same mold. I just cast a couple hundred with mine and it was beautiful. The six gangers seem to really work much better than the two gangers, based on the small sample I experienced with mine and with The one's rbstern owns.

Regards,

Dave

[Pystis]

I am not buying those 2 or 1 cavity molds any more. If there´s a six cavity mould of the same boolit design, I´d go for it for sure.
They may work for a person who casts a little and lives according to a "if it ain´t broken, don´t fix" philosophy. Not for me. :oops:
But I have to say this. If I didn´t have bought that LEE 312-185 mould, I wouldn´t have started this magnificent hobby. And I think I´m not the only one.

[Ranch Dog]

Ranch Dog, It has been a while since I've communicated with you. Good to hear from you.

Likewise! Glad you are still out there!

[StarMetal]

Jukka,

More on your 243 Japan/Sako...please.

Joe

[Pystis]

Joe,

I am sorry to say this but I got nothing new... It´s been quite hectic at school so the range time have been minimal. I am hoping when I go to work and get some money, I´ll acquire loading gear for .243 and maybe order some boolits from Bullshop to try out.
It is kinda boring to shoot commercial ammo and rounds that previous owner loaded. I have to admit all guns that don´t shoot cast boolits now, have stayed strickly in the closet. Like the Swede that shoots very well with j-bullets.:(

.358 WCF project is on a wait now. I do not know yet should I rebarrel it myself, or maybe let a professionals take care of it. I have all the equipment needed available at school, except reamer, and I´m sure I get very experienced quidance.

I´m a bit leaning towards sending it to a pro, because I don´t want to pay ~$190 for reamer, ~$190 for A&B barrel blank and ~$40 for permit, when well-known gunsmith would do that for ~$430. One possibility is to make reamer myself. Then I would consider doing it.

[StarMetal]

Jukka,

I have a good friend in Frankfurt, Germany. He's a real motor head, loves Chevys. He has a high performance 73-74 Z28 Camaro. He could have gotten some of the internal engine parts in Germany, but at a very very high price. So he had me buy them here and mail them to him. Such heavy items as the rear differential gear...the ring and pinion that is. Also a camshaft kit with lifters. He saved alot of money because of the difference between the dollar and the German mark at that time. Now I understand the Euro Mark carries more power. Anyways shipping on the heavy items was about $120 dollars. I mention all this because I can't believe a ream would cost that much to order and be sent from the states here. Also if I were going to build it I'd go for a more premium barrel. Have you checked the Lothar barrels? Being they are in Germany maybe that would be easier and cheaper for you to get then a premium barrel from the U.S.

Joe

[Dale53]

deuceroadster2;
Just place a small piece of 1x6 in front of you. After you drop the bullet, momentarily rest the mould blocks on the smooth surface of the board and gently close them. They will be lined up perfectly and you should have no further problems.

I would, of course, suggest that you lubricate them at the proper contact points (sparingly). After using it, I like Bullshop's lube for this purpose.

Dale53

[redneckdan]

lee recommends C5-A for mold lube NOT in the cavities, just on the alignment part. Aluminum actually starts to get slightly tacky at full casting temps and the lube helps the two surfaces slide.