Computor labels

[softpoint]

Has anyone tried computor labels for paper patches.? They do have an adhesive on them, but I wouldn't think it would be enough to keep the boolits from shedding the paper on exit. I have some and they are just about the right width and length for .44 bullets. I'd just trim the ends to a 30 degree angle. They are a little thicker than needed, but I'd size the boolits back to .432 before loading.:?:

[outdoorfan]

Has anyone tried computor labels for paper patches.? They do have an adhesive on them, but I wouldn't think it would be enough to keep the boolits from shedding the paper on exit. I have some and they are just about the right width and length for .44 bullets. I'd just trim the ends to a 30 degree angle. They are a little thicker than needed, but I'd size the boolits back to .432 before loading.:?:


Veral advocates computer labels, but only a certain kind. You can do a search for it over on his forum at Gray Beards. He calls it glue-on patching.

[softpoint]

I'll go over to Graybeards and see what I can find out. I thought someone mentioned it over here as well.:D

[montana_charlie]

I know of a guy (you have probably heard of him, too) who gets very good results out of paper patching. Like many others, he wets his paper when wrapping it on bullets.

Most shooters try to ensure the paper patch falls free of the bullet at the instant it clears the muzzle. If it does not, it would have to ride the bullet all the way to the target, just like a copper jacket, in order not to affect the stability.

This guy used to wet his patches with tap water, and dry the patched bullets on a coffee cup warmer. After seeing tha amount of 'mineral deposit' left by tap water, he decided it just might cause the patch to hang on a microsecond too long.

Now, he wets patches with a mixture of alcohol and distilled water...and (like I said) he gets groups that others envy.

If you think you want patches that are actually glued on, you must be expecting that they will stay absolutely flat to the bullet all the way to the target.

CM

[SierraWhiskeyMC]

I haven't tried computer labels for PP, nor do I think I'd want to try them.

You wouldn't have the benefit of the shrinking of the paper due to the application of water and allowing it to dry, and you'd be dependent on the adhesive holding over a widely varying set of circumstances.

Better to use a consistent paper and distilled water.

[Nrut]

Verl claims if you cook 6-8 hrs at 160*F the boolits with GOP that the glue dries....

Softpoint...You can butt wrap them..No need to cut an angle...
I played around with GOP's last year (summer) but had crappy accuracy mostly I think because I was sizing my Boolits down to far below bore dia. before wrapping....
I have some all wrapped and ready to load for testing now but with hunting season coming on they'll have to wait until next summer...

[catboat]

The first thing is, if it works for you then it's good. Use it.

Label paper is designed for certain functions: good adhesion, resistant to the elements (postman's creed... " Neither rain, nor sleet, nor snow...") which means it has a high level of sizing to it (water resistance). It is likely a medium to medium high level of inorganic filler-probably ~15%+ filler).

It wouldn't be my first choice, due to the high internal and surface sizing it has received (slow to receive water and wet-out).

I'll finish with the way I started: "If it works for you, then it's good. Use it."

[softpoint]

I've been getting good resuts in 45/70 with tracing paper. I have a load worked up now that is giving sub 2" groups at 100m at 1978 fps. with pure lead out of Lee 340 gr. mold. Will try out on whitetail in a few weeks . I was just looking for an easier way to patch some .44 pure lead to use in .44 Magnum revolver. I've heard patched soft lead works good in sixguns, too so I am going to try it. All the fun is in experimentation! I've been handloading and shooting for many moons, but this paper patching is something I've just recently started ,and it is something I am finding quite interesting and fun.:smile:

[Nrut]

SoftPoint I know what you mean about "finding it quite interesting and fun"..My .405 Win PP (with Vellum) boolits are ready to go hunting this year if I decide to go after Moose ...

Thanks for the heads up on the computer label contents catboat ... I shall re-read your sticky again...
:-)

[Zeek]

If applied to a very clean boolit, and then baked at 200F for an hour, they will not come off the bullet in flight. The paper is equivalent to 20# stock (adds ~0.006" per turn) and you use a ~0.050" overlap for a single layer and a butt (no overlap of the ends) for a 2X or 3X wrap. Lastly, you do NOT extend the patch over the rear end of the boolit. Buy the extra-strong-stick type (if available) and ONLY buy the type that has square corners. I find that the three-column type works well for 30 and 35 calibers, but that the larger calibers need the type that comes in a single label per sheet (with a narrow no-label margin). I have had good performance with 2X wraps, have not tried 3X, and have not yet found the ticket for being able to get the 1X wrap to give accuracy.
Regards, Zeek