Exploding boolit, 22short in a 45/70 boolit. Any one done it?

[joel0407]

I put as much info in the title so as not to waiste any ones time who isn't interested in my hairbrain ideas.

I have read about this but not from anyone who has actually done it.

If you have tried or know someone else who has. Post your experience.

[45nut]

IMHO,, the above would fit the ATF description for a "destructive device" and be risky to do here in the states. The idea intrigues me so if you can try it there it would be quite interesting.

[HABCAN]

IIRC (it was about 60 years ago) as teens we tried drilling out the noses of somebody's large something-or-other (.405?) and inserting the tiny BB Cap rounds but never got them to Kaboom even shooting boulders. The rounds performed same as the 'normal' ones: the Cap just mashed. I think you have to hit that little rimfire primer with exactly the right force the right way or no Kaboom. Today you might try the available longer CB Caps? I think Shorts might be entirely too long. YMMV.

Not much help, I know.

[rockrat]

The old 45/70 HP gould boolit had a hollow point that would take a 22 blank round and have read about people shooting those at targets.
Don't think it would be a DD, as it is less than 1/4oz of explosive (thats why MK211 Raufoss rounds for the 50bmg aren't a DD).
Have seen primers loaded in the drilled nose of a 357max round and shot at pieces of 2x4. Lot bigger piece of wood taken off the back with the primered round.

[Cannoneer]

I put as much info in the title so as not to waiste any ones time who isn't interested in my hairbrain ideas.

I have read about this but not from anyone who has actually done it.

If you have tried or know someone else who has. Post your experience.

Back when I was stationed in Alaska I took several .58 Caliber Minnie Balls and drilled a .24 inch hole in the nose just deep enough to seat a .22 LR case. We pulled the bullets from the .22's and dumped the smokeless powder and replace it with 4 Fg priming powder.

When the minnie hit the berm, we saw a white puff of smoke as the BP detonated. Now wether it went off due to the priming compound or just impact forces I can't say, I will say that they worked.

[jim4065]

...................Have seen primers loaded in the drilled nose of a 357max round and shot at pieces of 2x4. Lot bigger piece of wood taken off the back with the primered round.

Very interesting comment about the 357. I had no luck at all with the factory 44 Mag exploding bullets. Wonder if a comparison with loaded versus dead primers loaded into the hollow point of a 357 would be illuminating........[smilie=6:

[10 ga]

Back in the days of youth and boredom we used the same minnie bullet stuff. .25 drill out, .22 blank over as much 4F black as possible. PUFF Couple of years ago read an article in "Black Powder Hunting" magazine about a guy who made explosive rounds for an original #4 bore rifle. Seems that the exploding round is the only thing the guide had ever seen that dropped a Water Buff bull in it's tracks. 10 ga

[KCSO]

Yes I have done the 45-70 bullets that way. With a 22 blank round they are hell on small trees but i never shot any game with them. On a 4" elm they will blow out the back of the tree and it just falls over in the wind. I used Lee 450 gran bullets drilled on the lathe for a 22 blank.

[oldhickory]

I tried this years ago with a .58 Minie as per instructions in an OLD DGW catalog, (when they were packed full of fun stuff to do). Pulled the bullet from a .22 short, dumped the powder, bored out the nose of the Minie and packed it with 3F, crimped the cartridge in with pliers and shot some. The little puff of smoke was hardly worth the effort, but it probably would blow-up a limber chest if you hit it. We fed one nose down through a pipe onto a brick from the roof, it went, BANG!...And flew back upwards about 30 feet. When recovered, the drilled hole was slightly out of round and the .22 short case was missing.

Lessons learned; Lead is too soft to fragment, The .58 Minie won't hold enough black powder to make things really interesting, and The effort required to make them far out weighed the little puff of smoke as an end result. In short, I was disapointed.

[hiram]

I read about placing a shotgun primer in the 45-70 330 gould.

[joel0407]

Sounds like I will have to give it a go. I like the idea of just using a shot gun primmer, that seems like the easiest idea since I dont need such a big or deep hole.

Just one question. A few have said they tried when they wear young. Do you have to be young to try crazy ideas?

[Russell James]

Used a .223 attached to the front of an arrow eg powerhead recessed into a empty 308 cartridge!
She went well, silently and deadly. Exploded inside a pumpkin . Detonation was as arrow head entered thereby maximum damage to internals. Probably very illegal.
Powerhead are legal here only as an aid to scuba divers in the event of shark attack. [self defence].
RJ.

[briang]

A friend of mime has does this with a 12gauge. He uses a modified lee slug mold and drills a hole into the nose. Stuffs in as much powder as he can (I don't no what kind but it's not black) and caps it with a shotgun primer with a steel BB glued onto it. He crimps with a homemade roll crimper without a center so it doesn't hit the BB. If you make any of these do not put them into the tube, load directly into the chamber only.

[shotman]

I have drilled 22 short hps and take the white tips off the matches. put them in the hp and they crack when they hit. Dont know damage as was a steel plate

[KCSO]

I don't think that the explosion was the idea. The idea was to sort of pre fragment the bullet and get a more deadly round on light skinned game where penetration was not the issue. I would like to slo mo the rounds on trees as I BELIEVE that as the bullet comes apart the fragments going through are what is causing all the damage.

[hornsurgeon]

all i will say is, don't fill an alluminum arrow with powder and tip it with a shotgun primer/steel bb, then shoot it at a brick wall. the arrow will come back at you like a rocket, faster than it got there!

[joel0407]

I don't think that the explosion was the idea. The idea was to sort of pre fragment the bullet and get a more deadly round on light skinned game where penetration was not the issue. I would like to slo mo the rounds on trees as I BELIEVE that as the bullet comes apart the fragments going through are what is causing all the damage.

How good would it be to see a slow motion vid of these hitting anything.:smile:

[joel0407]

A friend of mime has does this with a 12gauge. He uses a modified lee slug mold and drills a hole into the nose. Stuffs in as much powder as he can (I don't no what kind but it's not black) and caps it with a shotgun primer with a steel BB glued onto it. He crimps with a homemade roll crimper without a center so it doesn't hit the BB. If you make any of these do not put them into the tube, load directly into the chamber only.

I like the idea of the primmer but I would worry that the ball bearing would strike the primmer upon firing and not at impact.

I think I will just try primmer alone. And maybe a little powder.

As long as the primmer was below the nose of the boolit it should be no worse than the primmer in the base of the case. (Tube loading)

[legend]

anything hit with a 45-70 will never know if an explosive charge was in it or not

[joel0407]

anything hit with a 45-70 will never know if an explosive charge was in it or not

You titlied your message "why" the question is not why but why not.

[StrawHat]

Just one question. A few have said they tried when they wear young. Do you have to be young to try crazy ideas?

Not absolutely necessary but it helps to have the feeling that you are invincable and nothing can happen to you.

Age and wisdom tends to remove such notions.

[joel0407]

Not absolutely necessary but it helps to have the feeling that you are invincable and nothing can happen to you.

Age and wisdom tends to remove such notions.

Dam that wisdom. Dam that age.:groner:

[madcaster]

You titlied your message "why" the question is not why but why not.


Good point I think.With the diameters of most of the applicable bullets it would seem to me that asuch a feature is not needed.Am I wrong?
I do remember reading that snipers would shoot into a bag of powder on an artillery crew during the War of Northern Aggression and when it exploded it would wipe out the whole gun crew.

[Linstrum]

Back 100 years ago Bannerman's sold .45-70 bullet moulds that cast a hollow point that took a .22 cartridge. I've looked for one of those for 30 years, but apparently those who have them or who have sold them don't/didn't know that the mould is for making 0.458" projectiles that take a .22 in the nose and didn't mention it in the description of the mould for sale.

Small rifle/pistol primers measure right around 0.177" in diameter and I used to shoot them in my rifled-barrel Daisy air rifle, flat side front/anvil side to the back. At night when I shot the dozer blade on my Caterpillar it made a nice flash of pretty green light and a LOUD pop. When I did that I used real good safety glasses!


rl596

[Gerry N.]

Back in the dark ages a buddy had an old cut off .45/70Trapdoor Springfield with a homemade front sight brazed to the barrel. It was our deer gun. We drilled the nose of the bullets with, I think, a 7/32" twist drill and inserted .22 shorts. At 75 yards or so those things would convert large rocks into gravel. The only animal we ever hit with one was a jackrabbit. The bullet just punched a .45 hole through the rabbit as always and converted a large rock behind the rabbit into gravel.

Gerry N.

[dominicfortune00]

IIRC, one of the old Ideal catalogs showed how to put a .22 in the nose of a .45 cal boolit.

In recent Lyman catalogs, they still show the boolit with the nose peeled out in four sections.

[joel0407]

In recent Lyman catalogs, they still show the boolit with the nose peeled out in four sections.

I'd like to see that!

[vonfilm]

I wonder how the 22LR Nail Gun Blanks available in various power levels at most hardware stores would work in this application.

[yondering]

The old 45/70 HP gould boolit had a hollow point that would take a 22 blank round and have read about people shooting those at targets.


I read about placing a shotgun primer in the 45-70 330 gould.

The 457122 Gould bullet will not take a .22 or any primer in the nose; the hollow point is deep but very small, it would require drilling like any other bullet.

The whole "explosive bullet" idea is only effective if you're shooting at hard surfaces; the impact has to be sharp enough to set off the primer. It could be useful shooting at vehicles in war time, but not much use otherwise, except to play with.

If you want explosive performance on water jugs or game, you'll do a lot better by casting a big hollow point from soft lead, or using some sort of varmint bullet from a rifle. These really do explode, but not in the way this thread is talking about, they're more of a fragmentation round.

[JeffinNZ]

I read an old article by a guy who said that he used to go shooting with his uncle (?) who used a .577 Snider. The Snider round had a bullet with the covered in HP so they cut the tip of the bullet off and put a .22 blank in it. He reported that on impact the blank would go off.

[DLCTEX]

Linstrom: Contact JIMinPHX to get one of his hollowpointing tools and have him use a drill bit sized to the 22 cartridge. That would make what you have been looking for, using the mould or boolit of choice. The tools are inexpensive and work well. Disclaimer: I am only providing hypothetical information. Not encouraging anything illegal.

[Gelandangan]

Sounds like I will have to give it a go. I like the idea of just using a shot gun primmer, that seems like the easiest idea since I dont need such a big or deep hole.

If you do, please tell us the result + photos.



Just one question. A few have said they tried when they wear young. Do you have to be young to try crazy ideas?

Yup, you got to be young and immortal when you experiment on these.
Old farts are done with all those experiments, we know all there is to know already :violin:

[longbow]

I drilled 457124's for .22 long rifle about 30 years ago. Pulled the .22 bullets then stuffed the cartridge and powder into the hole. I shot split wood to see if they did any more damage than a hollow point and I would say no. Maybe a different effect on green wood but I have also read (Cartridges of the World?) that this had been offered as an option with some boolits from the factory long ago but was discontinued because it was little if any more effective than a hollow point.

No reason not to try it if you want though. Can't hurt and might be fun. I suspect a better effect would be had by shooting rocks or steel plates. Probably get a bit of a pop and smoke then.

[Jjed]

Hey everybody watch this!

[joel0407]

Hey everybody watch this!

We are.:-)

[buck1]

If shot in to say a tree, about the time the boolit goes in to the tree a coupple of inches the 22 charge goes off, the hole in the tree acts like a barrel and the .22 is the charge. The boolit is pushed out of the bore(tree) and flying back at you.
You could have a gunfight with yourself!
I read this in one of the gun mags.....Buck

[longbow]

The bullets I recovered just mushroomed, no sign of blowing out the base.

If you drilled really deep that might be an issue. I had half a boolit left so wasn't concerned.

I just shot about 5 or 6, dug them out of the wood and decided it was too much work and didn't do any more than a good hollow point.

[cajun shooter]

Back in the early 70's after Lee Juras brought out the Super Vel ammo; the rush was on for High Performance handgun ammo. One company brought out a 357 mag that had a scalloped type of bullet with the nose containing a percussion cap and sealed over. The idea was that it would explode on impact and cause the main bullet to fragment. What we found while shooting them into Duct Seal was that the bullet did as designed but way too soon. It was on contact with out much penetration. A bigger caliber would have given better results but then the 45's don't need extra help.

[Multigunner]

The British had a muzzle loading Double Rifle used in India for awhile, a special issue item, that could fire explosive bullets to ignite artillery cassions.

An English Lord built a number of truly monster big game rifles some firing explosive bullets. One was called "the Son of the Canno" by his guides, and another even larger gun was once used to nail a Cape Buffalo at ectreme range, its explosive bullet took off the entire fore quarter of the beast. I'm not sure but I think the guys name was Baker, and he was said to stand six foot eight inches and weighed 300 lb of muscle, built like a WWF superstar. Even he was spun on his heel and thrown to the ground everytime he touched off Paula.


I have an old book on bullets here somewhere and I think it lists several explosive charged big game bullets.

The Spotter cartridges used in coax rifle caliber guns for aiming anti tank guns would probably mess someone up, but I hear these seldom detonate in flesh.

[DLCTEX]

The powder in a 22 shell is not going to overcome the momentum of a bullet large enough to contain it and fire the bullet back at you. The red loads for nail guns are very powerful. Don't be dumb like a fellow I know that pulled the bullet from a long rifle round and placed it in the chamber ahead of a nail gun charge. He ruptured the case and got brass bits in his face.

[phaessler]

This will bring Winter Boredom to a new level I fear.

[Linstrum]

Hi, DLCTEX, thanks for the suggestion! My interest in the old antique Bannerman .45-70 bullet mould is more for having an unusual bullet mould than for being able to shoot a boolit with a .22 rimfire cartridge in its nose.

It isn't too much of a challenge for me to drill out the nose of a 0.458" projectile in my lathe, I have a full machine shop and I have made some pretty weird stuff over the years. Read on below - - - -


rl744

[Linstrum]

Back about the time I started casting and reloading in 1964, I built a .625 caliber blunderbus that was primed with Alcan #11 caps for ignition. Also about that time was when I bought my first decent high power rifle, a Russian 91/30 Mosin-Nagant I got from Sears & Roebuck for $9.99. I also bought a bunch of Russian steel-cased ammo for it, and just because the Berdan-primed steel cartridges were too hard to reload was no reason to throw them away! Also about this same time was when I bought two small pieces of property for $10 in a tax auction in the little ghost town of Darwin, California, out sort of near Death Valley National Park (I still have the property). Now this story is going somewhere, so don't get impatient. I met an old retired miner who lived there in Darwin, his name was Bert Quinn and may he rest in peace, he was a very nice guy. Bert had a lot of blasting caps and dozens of 50-foot rolls of Ensign-Bickford Shamrock Brand safety fuse stored in an old refrigerator out in back of his outhouse and he needed money, so I bought a bunch of the fuse - the caps were old and scared me so I didn't get any, but his old fuse was still great. Being creative, I noticed that the safety fuse would crimp very tightly into the mouths of the steel 7.62x54R cartridges using my Stake-On electrical connector crimping pliers. So I filled the fired Russian cartridges with about 50 grains of black powder and crimped in about 3/4 of an inch of Ensign-Bickford Shamrock Brand safety fuse and split the end of the fuse so it would light easily. These were a bit of a sloppy fit down the 0.625" bore of my blunderbus since the rim diameter of the 7.62x54R cartridge is 0.564", which left a 0.0305" annular gap, but was good enough to get the 7.62x54R cartridge out of the barrel with a pretty good velocity when expelled by 40 grains of fffg. The particular grade of Ensign-Bickford Shamrock Brand safety fuse I had burned at the rate of 40 seconds per foot, so 3/4 of an inch took 2-1/2 seconds to burn. That gave my little "salutes" (I've got to be careful what I call them) plenty of time to reach a pretty fair altitude before the fuse lit the 50 grains of powder they contained. I found a few of my expended "salutes" and the steel cartridges were split wide open and nearly flat pieces of sheet metal. And they were LOUD, too. I estimated that they popped at a height of about 300 feet. I made dozens of them back then and on the 4th of July they were a big hit at the backyard BBQs I attended 40-something years ago. We lived way out in citrus farming country and in the event of a salute landing on the ground when it went off the dozens of square miles of lemon orchards wouldn't burn since they are kept pretty wet in the summer months. They made a fair amount of light when they went off, too, and after dark they were interesting to watch as the faint trail of sparks from the fuse traced their trajectory and the flash of orange light marked where their normal parabolic flight paths were interrupted by the sudden expenditure of additional energy that went KAAABOOOM!


rl745

[Eutectic]

I don't think the .45-70 or the Gould bullet was ever involved in this train of thought.

In the early days of hollow point experimentation however, there was a cast bullet for the .50-110-300 Express cartridge that had a hollow point sized for a .22 Short black powder blank. The thought was to further enhance bullet expansion upon impact; not any explosive damage from the charge itself. Funny..... The same bullet used a copper tube in the hollow nose to strengthen the bullet for deeper penetration! Seems you could have it both ways back then! That thought hasn't died........

Eutectic

[44fanatic]

Hey everybody watch this!

Redneck terminology that things are about to go amiss...LOL

[longbow]

According to Cartridges of the World, the .40-90 Sharps necked was loaded with Sharps bullets designed to accept a .22 blank.

[missionary5155]

Greetings
How are things on your side of the rim Mate ?
Exploding rounds have been around a long time. As mentioned above the primery idea was to encourage FAST expansion on large game. Whales were / are possibly the the most intended target. The problem is if the target is so large that it needs a extra bit of "internal expansion" then usually it has tough enough outer hide to cause the Detonator to fire before it enters the internal cavity. Thus SOLIDS still being used on BUFFS & other mean tough critters. Even armored vehicles are easily defeated by the SOLID penetrator whereas HP rounds can be surface detonated.
But it is the experimenting that is the fun of it all. And should it all fall through you can always Blame it on the Kelly´s...

[grumman581]

Instead of putting a .22 round in the nose of the bullet, put some potassium perchlorate instead. It is the active ingredient in the older style primers and you can buy it easily enough from the fireworks / pyrotechnic supply shops. It costs about $10 per pound, but odds are, there is a hazmat charge associated with it also...

http://www.skylighter.com/mall/chemicals.asp

http://www.highqualitychems.com/servlet/the-1/kclo4-perc-potassium-OXIDIZER/Detail

Back when primers were so difficult to find, there was some talk about reloading spent primers using this stuff. I've got a feeling that 1 pound of it would reload a LOT of primers...

[randyrat]

Sounds like I will have to give it a go. I like the idea of just using a shot gun primmer, that seems like the easiest idea since I dont need such a big or deep hole.

Just one question. A few have said they tried when they wear young. Do you have to be young to try crazy ideas?

Live and learn, and if you live long enough you'll learn. LOL

[rockrat]

Yondering, the current gould mould donesn't hold the 22 cartridges, but from what I read, the old moulds from long ago had a different size cavity and would. Also read that Lyman changed the HP pin to a smaller size to stop people from doing this.

Wondered about using the nail setter loads instead?

On a final thought, wonder about drilling the nose of a 45-70 boolit to take the CCI #35 primer? Just wondering, don't expect any of you all to try this, you understand.

[Linstrum]

Yeah, this is all conjecture or stuff that was done 50 - 100 years ago by folks living outside the U.S. who are all long gone to the happy hunting ground!

Potassium chlorate and potassium perchlorate by themselves are inert, they have to be mixed with a fuel material for them to do anything under normal conditions. Potassium chlorate will supposedly detonate mildly at red heat, but it has to be under specific conditions to do so, besides already being at red heat.


rl756

[grumman581]

There a reason that the insurance companies don't want to insure us guys until we hit 25 or so... Up until that point, we do really stupid things. Usually preceded by something like, "Yo! Check this out!"... The only reason that some of us are still alive is because Darwin was sleeping on the job...

EXAMPLE:

In my younger days, I wondered what it would be like to have a 12-gauge pistol. Since the plastic flare guns fired 12-gauge flares, it seemed that all I needed to do was put a 12-gauge shell in the flare gun and fire it. Unfortunately for my experiment, it would not fit all the way in (apparently they designed it that way to keep guys like me from doing stupid things like that). A bit of reaming out with some sandpaper on a dowel and I was able to get a normal length shell to fit in there. Let's just say that when I fired it, it was a rather interesting experience. I'm not sure if any of the pellets went out the end of the barrel since the barrel exploded and everything went out the sides. Luckily, I had the foresight to wear very heavy gauntlet type gloves, but even so, it really stung my hand.

Gaining experience is the process of making bad decisions, somehow surviving them, and realizing that you probably shouldn't have done that in the first place...

[grumman581]

Potassium chlorate and potassium perchlorate by themselves are inert, they have to be mixed with a fuel material for them to do anything under normal conditions.

So, when potassium perchlorate was used in the corrosive primers, what were they mixed with?

[Linstrum]

Hi, grumman 581, over the last 150, or so years, several types of priming compounds based in potassium chlorate as the shock sensitive oxidizer have been developed and used for both military and commercial applications. The priming compounds work great and do a wonderful job, except, and a big EXCEPT, for one thing, which is they are all highly corrosive from the potassium chloride salt residue from the decomposition of the potassium chlorate to its reduced form.

The role of potassium chlorate and potassium perchlorate in chemical reactions are usually as ready sources of oxygen gas since those two materials decompose into oxygen gas and potassium chloride salt at very low temperatures, and for potassium chlorate, when exposed to friction and shock from being rubbed or struck a hard blow. Another less common use is as a source of chlorine gas as an antiseptic in the same role as common household bleach, which is a related material called sodium hypochlorite. The perchlorate is much more stable than the chlorate and won't work for making friction and shock sensitive priming materials. Potassium perchlorate behaves a lot like potassium nitrate because it is fairly stable and won't detonate nearly as easily as potassium chlorate. Road flares use strontium perchlorate as both the oxidizer and the brilliant red coloring for the flame.

Potassium chlorate undergoes a complete and rapid decomposition into potassium chloride salt and oxygen gas as follows:

2 KClO3 + heat/friction/shock --> 2 KCl + 3 O2

Potassium perchlorate undergoes a complete and rapid decomposition into potassium chloride salt and oxygen gas as follows:

KClO4 + heat --> KCl + 2 O2

Pure oxygen gas is highly reactive and when in intimate molecular contact with easily oxidized fuel materials, such as sulfur, antimony trisulfide, phosphorus, phosphorus trisulfide, and a whole bunch of other easily oxidized chemical compounds, it will ignite the fuel material at room temperature and continue to burn as long as there are both oxygen and fuel present. This is how matches and primers work.

The best potassium chlorate-based priming compound was developed about 100 years ago at the U.S. Army's Frankford Arsenal and is called the Frankford Arsenal #2 priming compound. The Frankford #2 compound was used by the U.S. military as the priming compound for all United States Military .30-06, .45 ACP, and the very small amounts of .30-40 Krag-Jorgensen, .45-70, .45 Colt, and .38 Special ammunition in both World Wars and Korea, except in the .30 U.S. Carbine that required a non-corrosive primer for its corrosion-sensitive gas operating system. All .45 ACP and .30-06 cartridges were loaded with the corrosive Frankford #2 mixture until about 1953-1954, when it was phased out and replaced with the lead styphnate priming now commonly used. U.S. Army General Julian S. Hatcher lists the exact proportions of the ingredients of the Frankford #2 compound in his comprehensive United States Military Small Arms book "Hatcher's Notebook". I don't have the exact proportions of the ingredients in front of me, but they are potassium chlorate, antimony trisulfide (Sb2S3), sulfur, a small amount of ground glass as a friction sensitizer, and a small amount of animal hide glue as the binder to hold the powdered materials in the priming cup, as well as a stabilizer to prevent the slow room temperature deterioration of the ingredients that are highly unstable in contact with each other in the mixture. I have Frankford #2 primed .45-70 ammo that is over 100 years old and the primers still go “bang”, so that mixture is a good one for a long shelf life.

Related to the priming compounds are the mixtures used for matches and toy pistol caps. Safety matches are a mixture of potassium chlorate, sulfur, ground glass, and animal glue; they require a sensitizer to light, which is on the striking strip on the match book or match box in the form of lead peroxide or vanadium-5 oxide. Strike anywhere matches have a primer on the tip that is very close to the ammunition priming compound that is made from potassium chlorate, sulfur, phosphorus trisulfide, ground glass, and animal hide glue. The properties of phosphorus trisulfide are extremely close to antimony trisulfide and it is used in place of the antimony compound in matches since antimony is every bit as poisonous as arsenic, its elemental “brother”. People lighting cigarettes with matches made with antimony trisulfide would be killed pretty quickly from antimony poisoning, so the non-toxic phosphorus chemical is used instead. Toy cap pistol caps are made using mixtures similar to strike anywhere matches and usually have potassium chlorate, phosphorus trisulfide, sulfur, elemental phosphorus in the form of red phosphorus, ground glass, and animal hide glue. Some toy cap formulas skip the red phosphorus. Safety matches can be lit by striking them hard on polished glazed ceramic floor tiles or window glass, but the ground glass in them makes a pretty nasty scratch on the surface, so be careful if you do that.

I have made very tiny amounts of Frankford #2 to try it out and it is easy to do and works well. I made only very tiny amounts because, like ANY priming compound, it is extremely sensitive to mishandling. If working with materials like primers, remember that the pinch of powder in a .22 Long Rifle is enough to kill a 2000-pound Holstein bull – I used to do that all the time when I raised beef.


rl757