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View Full Version : Kroil in the mould - I did it, it works!



Vly
08-01-2009, 04:49 PM
There was a thread here about 2 months ago about using Kroil in the mould cavities to improve the "castability" of a mould. Here is a link to the original thread.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=55260

I will admit I had my doubts about it. Commonly accepted cast boolit wisdom is that any oil in a mould is bad and will cause wrinkled boolits. I do know from experience the preservative oil in a new mould needs to be removed or you get wrinkles. So from that many casters infer that all oil is bad and to apply oil on purpose just makes no sense at all.

I have a new Lyman 311359 that I acquired to feed a National Postal Meter 30 Carbine. The boolit does well in the carbine, but the mould is a real chore to use. The front cavity hangs up badly, and requires many forceful blows to release. I cleaned and cleaned and looked for burrs, but still the production rate was low and the fatigue and frustration level high.

So today I used Kroil in the cavities. The Kroil I have is liquid, not spray, so I soaked a Q-tip and throughly wet both cavities, waited a bit, then swabbed the excess out. Once the mould got up to temperature, it was like a different mould. The front cavity still needed an occasional tap, but the improvement was astonishing. My production rate shot up, and the frustration was way down. I quickly got into that "groove" where boolits are falling perfect with every cast and you want no interruptions. It was a beautiful thing. :bigsmyl2:

So if you have a balky mould, ignore past "wisdom" and try Kroil in the cavities.

http://www.fototime.com/0DB367EAECDFA37/standard.jpg

45nut
08-01-2009, 04:57 PM
Amazing isn't it? I too have transformed a balky stubborn mold into something quite resembling that is a joy to use with Kroil.
I use it frequently now,, and smoking a mold here is a relic of the past.

fastgun
08-01-2009, 05:15 PM
I guess after 35 years of bullet casting you can still learn something new. I have a mold that I will try it on. It will sure beat having to beat the *#@%& out of it to get the bullets to fall out. I sure hope it works.

Shiloh
08-01-2009, 05:34 PM
Although not really a betting man, you could have taken some money from me. Whenever I have had bad, wrinkled, or incomplete fillout it is because of the incomplete removal of oil.

What does Kroil have in it that doesn't act like and oil contaminant??

Shiloh

jim4065
08-01-2009, 05:41 PM
Does it only work with steel and iron, or has it worked with aluminum also?

45nut
08-01-2009, 05:48 PM
Works great with aluminum molds, steel,,whatever.

I have no idea why,, or what it has in it,, no chemical engineer degree here,, but it flat works.

Now when I get a new mold,, I spray it with carb cleaner or boil it out first,, then try casting a few times when I get the mold hot,, gives me the opportunity to apply bull plate anyway,, then if the mold does not want to cooperate it gets the Kroil treatment.

Between Bullplate and Kroil,, we achieve happiness and get the boolits without beating up the molds.

Vly
08-01-2009, 05:48 PM
You guys ask excellent questions. This is the first time I tried this, so am far from an expert on the subject. I would refer you to the thread linked in the OP for a more thorough discussion. The linked thread is 3 pages that touch on your questions.

Blammer
08-01-2009, 06:01 PM
kroil huh? hmmm I got a bad dog mould that I'll have to try it on....

RP
08-01-2009, 06:05 PM
Its majic dude I sometimes wear a chicken feet lucky charm if iam haveing a bad casting day.

Bret4207
08-01-2009, 06:52 PM
Someone do us a favor- measure the castings before and after the Kroil goes in. I'm thinking it's leaving a coating of some kind. If it works that's great, but how think is the coating and does it affect boolit diameter?

45nut
08-01-2009, 07:04 PM
Bret,, it's wiped on,, then wiped off ..
Dip a q-tip in the Kroil,, like Brycreem, a little dab will do ya,, then wipe the cavities and spin the q-tip and wipe it out with the clean end.

Really,, its also a great way to find any burrs in a cavity as well, but it literally isn't meant to be a layer,, if anything its a micro-thin one that would be impossible to measure.

Its similar to Bullplate in it's application,, less is more. And a little bit goes a long , long way.

NuJudge
08-01-2009, 07:13 PM
Kroil is magic stuff, as far as I'm concerned. I have a number of rifles with non-stainless barrels I shoot regularly, and they shoot to a different POI if the bore is clean or oiled, but if I Kroil them I get no change in POI and no rust. YMMV.

The stuff creeps everywhere, so I store them muzzle down.

Marlin Hunter
08-01-2009, 07:39 PM
Is it just standard Kroil? [they have so many different products at their website.]

Do you have to pay a HazMat fee for shipping????

Is there a local chain store place that sells it, like ACE hardware etc?

mdi
08-01-2009, 08:48 PM
I bought Aero Kroil on line (they had a special) 2 cans for $12.00. No hazmat fees

mdi
08-01-2009, 08:49 PM
https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/index.shtml

462
08-01-2009, 08:54 PM
Yep, the stuff is truly magic. Don't know the how or the why, but it works.

I hope all the posters who said they'd try it would let us know their results.

Perhaps a Kroil sticky?

Old Ironsights
08-01-2009, 08:56 PM
OK, OK... I have plenty of Kroil, but now I'm going to have to try this... and I ordered some BullPlate too...

Jeez, you guys are worse than Perfume sales girls... ;)

45nut
08-01-2009, 09:15 PM
this will be a sticky after a while,, don't want to copy it too soon.

725
08-01-2009, 09:22 PM
I never would have thought. Will try it soon.

Vly
08-01-2009, 09:31 PM
Someone do us a favor- measure the castings before and after the Kroil goes in. I'm thinking it's leaving a coating of some kind. If it works that's great, but how think is the coating and does it affect boolit diameter?

Bret - I just measured some I cast 2 weeks ago and compared them to the ones cast today. Any difference is undetectable by my micrometer.

Three44s
08-01-2009, 09:37 PM
I'm a big fan of Kroil, Aerokroil and Silikroil but would never have guessed that it would help thusly with casting!

Next sticky casting session, I'll try it.

Three 44s

Down South
08-01-2009, 10:00 PM
Hmmmmm, I remember reading one of the earlier post on Kroil being a great release agent but forgot about it. I keep several cans of the stuff in my shop. I’ll have to remember this and try it out next time that I’m casting with one of my finicky moulds.

masscaster
08-01-2009, 10:11 PM
Aero Kroil rocks!!
masscaster
Look for the Orange Can!!

Leadforbrains
08-01-2009, 10:29 PM
Been using Kroil for barrel prep for years. Recently started using it on my molds a couple of months ago. I love the stuff!

snaggdit
08-01-2009, 10:37 PM
After reading the older post a few months ago, I tried it in one of my stubbern Lee molds. It helped some with dropping boolits but I didn't get monstrous improvement in that mold, but also didn't get any wrinkles. IIRC, the thought was in Steel molds it would fill the pores more than aluminum. I am not knocking it. I'm just saying I think the improvement is greater in steel than aluminum. Love Kroil to clean my barrels!

geargnasher
08-01-2009, 11:09 PM
:holysheep I've still gotta try this. I first heard about it from Shotman earlier this weekhttp://http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=58839

Gear

stubshaft
08-01-2009, 11:22 PM
I use it to rustproof my moulds. I use it also to clean lead out of barrels. The only problem i have is that it cleans it too clean. I have to shoot about 5 rounds to condition the bore again. It is magical on lead smears. Shoot it in (aerosol) let it sit for about 3 - 5 minutes and use a plain patch to push the lead out! The first time I did this I was amazed. The lead came out of the bore/land grooves in strips.

longhorn47
08-01-2009, 11:53 PM
try it on chicken legs you will not believe it

odoh
08-02-2009, 12:09 AM
Is it just standard Kroil? [they have so many different products at their website.]

Do you have to pay a HazMat fee for shipping????

Is there a local chain store place that sells it, like ACE hardware etc?

During their promotion I ordered some acid unknowingly. They shipped it w/o HazMat but in reading it, I picked up that I wasn't supposed to have it. Its advertised as a rust remover.

I spray the kroil oil onto my iron blocks at the end of the session. Then degrease it w/carb cleaner while the alloy is heating. Perhaps degreasing step isn't necessary?

qajaq59
08-02-2009, 05:45 AM
I wish I was a chemist, just so I'd know why that would work!!

shotman
08-02-2009, 08:01 AM
Well it took you all long enough to try it. I bought a mold off feebay its a lee 6 cav . it is the spcl run of the 165gr tl fp. I found out why he sold it . I cleaned it and used the Kroil cast about 100 and 90% were trash. I took more Kroil and heated it with a torch [not real hot] and sprayed it and let cool. sprayed again and wiped off wet and cast another 100 or so. This time it was about 50% trash. Let cool and sprayed again. Cast about 100 more. That time was donwn to 10% and most of those were my doing .
Do not clean off after you use it . You will need to wipe the face and use the Q tip to keep from getting a build up on the face of the block . It will clean its self in the cav.
It DOES NOT prevent rust on the steel molds[does on al molds I guess] After the mold gets seasoned I can cast 200 or more before they dont drop when you open the mold.
It DOES NOT change the size like the smoke or spray release. If you have one that is smoked or sprayed the Kroil will clean it up . New molds should be cleand of the shipping oil/coating with actone or the like Most all NAPA stores have it rick
The best surprize was what it done to a 25acp mold

cajun shooter
08-02-2009, 08:31 AM
I have used Kroil for years in doing any type of machine work. I keep a can next to my drill press for that chore. I had a friend with severe leading in his 44-40. I told him to soak the barrel with Kroil and let it stand over night. The next day all the leading was lifted and went easy out the bore. When I use it to clean any new gun barrel also. I also jumped on the deal of 2 Areo-Kroils to your door for the price of one. I remember when WD-40 first hit the market and the raves it got. Kroil has been around for years and is somewhat a hidden product. The use of inside the mold cavity is new even to me and I already am using it for mold storage. But I've only been casting for 38 years so I'm still in the learning process. I've been cleaning my molds with acetone and now find out I should leave it there. Amazing!!! Long live KROIL

Three44s
08-02-2009, 08:43 AM
Temporary hijack:

Someone mentioned barrel effects with Kroil.

I won't dis Kroil for cleaning but for barrel coating and then firing, my best has been hand lapping with USP or JB bore paste and then final clean and season with CorrosionX then dry patch it down to a steady roar.

Hijack off

Three 44s

Maven
08-02-2009, 09:11 AM
Great post Lloyd! I just remembered that I have a mold that could benefit from "Kroiling." And, as luck would have it, I happen to need some of those CB's. I'll let you know how this turns out. Btw, Monty will be away for the Aug. 14 meeting in case he didn't e-mail you about it.

captain-03
08-02-2009, 09:27 AM
I have that same carbine mould and one the cavities is a "bugger" ... know what to try next time! Thanks ...

HWooldridge
08-02-2009, 10:34 AM
try it on chicken legs you will not believe it

No kiddin' - I'm gonna smoke some ribs and spray it on for baste...:-D

shotman
08-02-2009, 12:16 PM
I just run about 200 more. I got it this time. Only loss was my fault. Those were moving mold too fast to get a base fill out.

Cloudpeak
08-02-2009, 02:08 PM
Jeez, you guys are worse than Perfume sales girls... ;)

But the sales girl's smell a heck of a lot better[smilie=1:

44man
08-02-2009, 02:45 PM
My guess is Kroil doesn't gas off at casting temps. But has anyone tried Bullplate in the cavities yet? I have had some get in the cavity and just wiped it off and cast with no problems.
We just might have two good products to play with.

cohutt
08-02-2009, 05:39 PM
I used kroil on my new mihec 44 hp mold this afternoon to clean the HP pin arms that slide through the mold. I had to work on this mold a little to get it to close properly (didn't take too much). After I cleaned the whole mold with brake cleaner and warmed it up to cook off the condensation, I touched up the pins with the kroil and it got in the cavities.

I figured i'd see how it went and after the mold heated up things went really really well. I noticed the bullets started dropping easily without wrinkles about the time I caught the smell of the kroil burning off.

BTW This is a brass mold.

leadeye
08-02-2009, 07:35 PM
Kroil looks like more of a solvent/surfactant combination to me. It's advertised function is to penetrate rusted parts. It probably contains some lubricant that may not be hydrocarbon related. In my old line of work we used butyl benzyl pthalate for lube on everything from machinery to spray guns as it had no affect on any of the coatings we made.

peter nap
08-02-2009, 07:43 PM
They're having a special on it now. I ordered two spray cans for a little over $12.00 delivered.

BRIARPATCH
08-02-2009, 09:02 PM
:!:
FWIW, Looking at their website I see Kroil also offers a special product specifically for mold release. It's called (Parteze Mold Release) and a free can is available when your order a regular or larger size can or Kroil from them.
You can read their info for yourselves but description states that it's silicone based and is repellent to oil and water and heat resistant.

BRIARPATCH
08-02-2009, 09:13 PM
peter nap,
Who's offering the special and on what size cans?

Vly
08-02-2009, 09:23 PM
That Parteze stuff looks interesting. They have many interesting products on the website. Maybe they will become a site sponsor, with all the business we are pushing their way. ;)

Briarpatch - If you go here - https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/index.shtml - you will see the free trial offer on the checkout page. Free can of your choice with purchase.

peter nap
08-02-2009, 11:18 PM
peter nap,
Who's offering the special and on what size cans?

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

Maven
08-03-2009, 11:12 AM
Tried the Kroil swab on my balky Ly. 245496 yesterday (swabbed, let it sit and preheat, wiped the excess from the cavities) and found no material difference in performance or CB diameter. To wit, the front cavity was still balky, but a bit of smoking with a wooden match worked better than Kroil. Also, if I cast and cooled the mold a la Bruce B., I'm sure the CB's would have fallen with little coaxing on my part.

Gohon
08-03-2009, 09:43 PM
Tried the Kroil swab (swabbed, let it sit and preheat, wiped the excess from the cavities) and found no material difference in performance or CB diameter. but a bit of smoking with a wooden match worked better than Kroil.

Ditto experience here with my mould.

HWooldridge
08-03-2009, 09:55 PM
NAPA sells a similar product called "Knock 'R Loose" - works well to clean barrels and actions.

Rick459
08-10-2009, 08:52 PM
did th kroil thing on my lyman 427098 mold and now it will not fill either cavity all the way up. washed the mold in hot soap and water and still it will not fill the cavities all the way up. any one have any ideas as to whatt's going on ? did i wreck my mold using this stuff......

snaggdit
08-10-2009, 09:00 PM
Try cleaning good with white gas or brake cleaner as well then whipe clean with a qtip. I also tried Kroil again a few nights ago in a Lee six banger that had some sticking boolits. Ended up with wrinkly boolits for a half dozen or so fills. Finally they began to drop OK again, but still sticking in the same cavities. Smoked the stubborn cavs and it improved a little.

shotman
08-11-2009, 12:46 AM
I guess some never learn. and from several molds I have bought I can understand. It does work and works good . If you do it right . It is like "seasoning an iron skillet" once done its forever. It takes a little longer to get a AL mold to season than a steel one.
Heat the AL to casting temp. take Qtip and wet inside of cavity. It will dry cast about 10 sets. they will not be very good. Spray the mold all over and let cool. next time wipe the wet off and heat mold cast about 10 more sets. you will see they improve. sray the mold and let cool again. repeat same thing wipe the wet and cast .This time you should get 90% and most will fall out. Every time do same thing Spray after you finish and let cool. at about 10 times I rarely have to tap a mold.

snaggdit
08-11-2009, 12:53 AM
Why not? I'm a glutton for punishment. I'll try that the next time.

Springfield
08-11-2009, 01:15 AM
Or you could just cast a few hundred bullets and let the natural coating take over and they will cast well. They best casting LEE moulds I have are the ones that are brown most everywhere. What it seems to me you are doing is just speeding up the natural coating process. I have never had a mould that didn't get better with use, at least not aluminum ones. Don't use that many steel ones, and most of them are used and work fine already. If I ever get one that just won't release properly after a break-in I might try this, but of the 35 LEE 6 cav's I use I haven't had one yet. Reminds me of a Diesel Engine repair class I took once, actually it was the transmission repair part of the course. The teacher said that whenever he rebuilt a tranny he would take a dremel tool and round off all the edges of the dogs to make for a smoother shifiting tranny. Some of the students protested this precedure, felt he was just shortening the life of the tranny for the purpose of an immediately smooth tranny. Which he was. It would have smoothed out by itself in due time. My moulds always drop bullets properly eventually, with out my having to cast a bunch of bad bullets. Either way will work, I suppose. Just a different approach.

qajaq59
08-11-2009, 06:28 AM
Sounds like it may have filled the venting grooves?

redbear705
08-13-2009, 10:18 PM
I suppose that one of you guys are gonna tell us that RainX will work as a mold release too!:grin:

JR

markinalpine
08-13-2009, 10:57 PM
I suppose that one of you guys are gonna tell us that RainX will work as a mold release too!:grin:

JR

Try it and give us a report. Who knows? :idea:

I've had pretty good luck with my Lee 6 cavity handgun moulds and double cavity rifle moulds, after thoroughly cleaning the mould first with brake cleaner (outside, of course) and carefully deburring, preheating on a hotplate, casting and then lubing with bullplate per the instructions, and then casting away, realizing that the first few casts are going back into the pot.

I have had the same experience as Springfield a few posts earlier with using the moulds until they are seasoned nice and brown.

Mark :coffeecom

Lead Fred
08-14-2009, 02:09 AM
Just sent away for the 2 for 1 google deal.

thanks guys

inuhbad
08-14-2009, 04:08 PM
I like the Kroil too! It's truly one of those things that has a CR@PTON of different uses in a man's workshop!

hiram
08-26-2009, 11:59 AM
I've used moly film on 30 cal bullets. https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/index.shtml

Been using kroil product for quite a while. The kroil+graphite combo is good for exterior stuff like car hinges.

smoked turkey
01-05-2010, 01:40 AM
I also got in on the Kroil deal. I chose the spray can as my second can. It works real good for getting it in tight places. As a bonus I kinda like the smell of the stuff as well.
smoked turkey

shotman
01-05-2010, 02:02 AM
ken put it up as a sticky It took me a long time but you guys did it and found out a red neck hillbilly cant be all wrong. Guys found that it will get the choke tubes out too.

SmuvBoGa
01-05-2010, 11:53 AM
Have had good results with the Kroil & molds. Use it almost for everything. How does Kroil (K) & Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) compair ? For me K has to be mail ordered, MMO can be bought at the local auto store, Wal-mart .... just easier to find MMO. :?

JMc

ggb3
01-05-2010, 04:23 PM
Hi y'all
I went to the kroil website to look at getting me some. There is a terms agreement with the below, part of the agreement.

ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY KANO LABS ARE FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY AND ARE NOT INTENDED FOR RETAIL SALE, PERSONAL OR CONSUMER USE.
By accepting the terms and conditions contained herein, Purchaser warrants that all products purchased through this website will be used for industrial purposes only and not for retail sale, personal or consumer use. Purchaser further warrants that it manufactures or constructs goods or commodities, or that it distributes to entities that manufacture or construct goods or commodities.


Why and what is the big deal? What kinds of happenings will bite you later for agreeing to this and you are a consumer?

Thanks,
George

eka
01-05-2010, 04:59 PM
I tried the Kroil on a new Lyman 8MM mold I got for Christmas. I degreased the mold as usual and then Kroiled it up. After getting up to temp., it made some really good looking boolits. They didn't drop without some persuasion. But, what I liked about the whole idea the best, is the ability to keep the mold in a state of readiness all the time. I know, as has been stated that Kroil is not going to prevent rust per say. But, all my molds are stored in my heated safe. I think under those conditions, the mold will stay just fine and rust free. I have never felt good about letting a mold sit with nothing at all on it, but it seems to be fine in my safe wearing a light coating of Kroil. All I have to do now is get it out and go. Getting my mold ready to start was what hindered me the most in casting. Now, if I only have an hour to play with, I can get some good boolits, Kroil up the mold and put it away. And, in all fairness to the Kroil technique, I only have a can of the liquid, so my results may have been even better if I had the spray can as recommended. I give the idea a thumbs up. The pros far outweigh the only con, which is having to buy another product. But, a little Kroil will last a very very long time. So, that's not really even a con either and everybody should have some Kroil handy anyway.

Keith

Edubya
01-05-2010, 07:54 PM
Hi y'all
I went to the kroil website to look at getting me some. There is a terms agreement with the below, part of the agreement.

ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY KANO LABS ARE FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY AND ARE NOT INTENDED FOR RETAIL SALE, PERSONAL OR CONSUMER USE.
By accepting the terms and conditions contained herein, Purchaser warrants that all products purchased through this website will be used for industrial purposes only and not for retail sale, personal or consumer use. Purchaser further warrants that it manufactures or constructs goods or commodities, or that it distributes to entities that manufacture or construct goods or commodities.


Why and what is the big deal? What kinds of happenings will bite you later for agreeing to this and you are a consumer?

Thanks,
George
I believe that the first part is to dissuade competition from retailers from competing with their web site sales. They probably have a pretty good mark-up on it and are discouraging any thoughts of a wholesale operation.
The sentence: "Purchaser further warrants that it manufactures or constructs goods or commodities, ..." does not exclude you or I; we are producing goods and commodities whether we sell them or not.
EW

shotman
01-05-2010, 11:12 PM
That is a disclaimer same as Micky Ds coffee is hot. Most NAPA stores have it or a tool supply place . The shipping is a little much if you dont get several items from the manufacture.
Please read the sticky about useing it . It works better after several heat/ cool applications.
I wipe the wet off and heat mold and cast about 50 or so put some on the mold and let it cool to touch. Re apply and wipe off and heat and cast.
After about 3 times you can cast for several hundred boolits. You may half to tap a little but most times they will fall free. the ones that dont look at the hole with a magnfiying glass and there is a small bur near the edge that will hold the boolit. Shotman

newcaster bob
02-13-2010, 02:59 PM
read the label penetrates to the millonth of an inch , works on everything

Outdoors
02-15-2010, 04:42 PM
anyone tried kroil as a sprue platelube?

Pat

Slow Elk 45/70
02-15-2010, 05:03 PM
Outdoors, like the man said it works on most anything...don't ask me why, but I have used it in/on my guns for quite a while...now using in/on my molds...it just works, try it for yourself...Good Luck

kendwell
02-15-2010, 06:26 PM
Another formulation is Silikroil. Two other products of interest are Kreen and Microil.
Recommend all. Rebuild of 1977 Ford 4wd F250 and maintenance for 12 years of a 1973 Torino was made possible with Kroil and Kreen.

shdwlkr
02-15-2010, 08:20 PM
You used to be able to get a gallon of kroil from Midwayusa.com.
Tried it on one of my molds and didn't like it. The bullets came out all sorts of strange. Went back to using alcohol and it works for me.

Jkrice
02-19-2010, 09:26 PM
What's Bullplate?. Sorry, I must have overlooked descriptions of it.
Many Thanks, Jerry

Bullshop Junior
02-19-2010, 10:06 PM
What's Bullplate?. Sorry, I must have overlooked descriptions of it.
Many Thanks, Jerry
It is a product that we sell to lubricate the mould, and keep lead from smearing on the top of the mould.

Crash_Corrigan
02-20-2010, 05:03 AM
I just used Kano Kroil on a Q tip on Mihec's Penta HP Pins and it made the boolits just drop off with a shake of mold.

buck1
02-21-2010, 07:34 PM
Anywhere else and I wouldnt have belived it....Buck

noylj
07-20-2010, 05:42 AM
Always suspected it is automatic transmission fluid and Ethylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether, from the "pleasant" smell.

Jech
11-19-2010, 10:20 PM
I haven't been able to find "Kanolabs Kroil" locally, would this stuff do the same thing?

http://www.blastercorporation.com/PB_Blaster.html

http://www.truevalue.com/assets/product_images/styles/large/200139.jpg

shdwlkr
11-20-2010, 11:56 AM
Midway usa is where I found mine got some in small cans at first then jumped in and got a gallon. I use it for all kinds of stuff.

Shooter6br
11-20-2010, 12:26 PM
Marvel Mystory Oil "Poor man's Kroil"

RP
11-20-2010, 01:14 PM
No PB Blaster will not do the same dont use it bud. Been told not to use it on you guns either not sure why. Get some Kroil or try the marvel mystery oil I have not tried it on my mold but alot closer to kroil in smell and looks.

Jech
11-20-2010, 02:28 PM
((Removed by poster, posted in the wrong forum >_<))

RP
11-20-2010, 03:40 PM
kroil is not used like bulllube if your going to try oil get the TCW 3 or 4 boat oil not weed wacker oil and try that.

ghh3rd
11-20-2010, 04:11 PM
Here is the KANO Lab site. I haven't heard of anything else that acts like Kroil for molds. They offer buy one (11 oz aerosol), get one free. The freebe can be one their other dozen or so products, or another can of Kroil.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Jech
11-20-2010, 04:21 PM
Gonna give this Marvel Mystery Oil a shot while my order processes/ships...should be interesting :)

ghh3rd
11-20-2010, 10:09 PM
It won't be a mystery to you for long... just for us. Be sure to let us know how it goes.

shotman
11-20-2010, 11:46 PM
guys you dont need to be a company to order their Ph no is 1866 598 9415---ask for the free offer--- and as ricky posted that is web -- its free if you want to try but you will like it cost is $8.50 for big can onec you try it and find out it works they will send you special offers . while your at it get a small [pint] of EXRUST it is the best stuff to clean the rust off molds it dont eat metal just the rust

JonB_in_Glencoe
11-21-2010, 02:41 AM
Kano "Micro oil" is some awesome light machine oil...gun oil.
BUT, ya Gotta buy a quart...a lifetime supply, comes with a needle oiler.
Jon

Jech
11-22-2010, 11:51 PM
Just wrapped up a casting session trying out the Marvel Mystery Oil. I dabbed a bit into each cavity and on the block face then brought it up to temp on the hotplate. I waited a bit for the excess to burn off and started pouring...after 15 or so drops, the boolits looked as terrible as the first day I tried casting. Wrinkles, frosting, random pockets, everything bad was there. The only exception was that the boolits were practically jumping out of cavities that took a few raps on the hinge pin before. Did I miss something in the application process?

Outdoors
11-23-2010, 02:57 PM
With Kroil, I believe you wipe the cavities before casting to dry them - I've not tried it yet but there's a description on the first page of the thread. Not sure if MMO will work the same way, more of it may stay in the cavities than kroil .... Still. MMO is handy for alot of other stuff so it's good to have around the shop.

Pat

RP
11-23-2010, 07:40 PM
If I use kroil on a mould while iam casting and the mould is hot I spray some right in cavs and blocks smokes like crazy and I keep casting next one or two cast boolits are junk . After that their back to normal and dropping better. I think from reading some of the post you guys are trying to do the wrong thing with it. What you need is some bullplate or something else others are useing. With that stuff you keep out of cav and put on hinges pins spuce plate.

shotman
11-23-2010, 10:43 PM
guys you sray or wipe what ever I spray mine and let it drip off. wipe the wet off Qtip inside cavity. bring to temp. you will loose about 10 or so depends on size of mold. a 22 will take 25 a 45 will run about 10 befoer it gets set . cast around 50 and open mold while HOT and spray inside let it smoke dry. about 5 casts and will drop fine . when done spray till wet and close mold and let cool. put in storage {air tight} next time you cast wet mold again and wipe it off heat and start casting
I have yet to see a bad bullet after mold gets to temp. most all will drop at opening or a very light tap.
Never wash it only use the Kroil to clean. after you get mold seasoned you dont need any lube for plate lead will not stick
I run 200 this morning on a 270 mold took 10 drops to get to temp and everyone fell out
It works if you dont beleive it send me your mold that wont cast it will when I send it back

kelbro
11-23-2010, 11:12 PM
Here's what has worked well for me on both aluminum and iron molds.

Mold on the hotplate while the pot starts to melt.

Wet one end of the Q-Tip with a drop or two of Kroil on it.

After the mold is warm, swab both cavities with the wet end of the Q-Tip. Then swab with the dry end.

Start casting.

Only the first couple of bullets are sub-par. After a hundred or so bullets (or if they start getting a little sticky), swab each cavity again with the still wet Q-Tip, No need to add more Kroil to the Q-Tip at this point or swab it out with the dry end.

Keep casting.

Seldom need another application after this last light one.

When you finish casting, swab the cavities one more time with the wet end of the Q-Tip and you are ready for the next session.

Good luck. Kroil has made my already good molds even better.

RP
11-24-2010, 12:49 PM
I like those last to tips I was just using more as a cleaner that helped the boolits fall free got to try the Q tips and the seasoning trick.

flounderman
11-24-2010, 10:18 PM
you can order direct from the factory. they have special deals most of the time. check online. I have never seen anything that is as good as kroil.

shotman
11-25-2010, 01:08 AM
the reason to soak the whole mold it to "season " it like a cast iron skillett.
all fo you have seen the vent lines get lead in them. they wont anymore after the mold gets seasoned you dont need any lube on the plate that sometimes may get in cav
the reason I say put in air tight bag it it dont let the kroil dry and other thing Kroil will not prevent rust

340six
11-26-2010, 06:07 PM
If I use kroil on a mould while iam casting and the mould is hot I spray some right in cavs and blocks smokes like crazy and I keep casting next one or two cast boolits are junk . After that their back to normal and dropping better. I think from reading some of the post you guys are trying to do the wrong thing with it. What you need is some bullplate or something else others are useing. With that stuff you keep out of cav and put on hinges pins spuce plate.
Thats just how I use the Marvel oil
I apply it with a Q-Tip and then use the other side so just a little is left in the cavities. if not the first 2-3 are messed up.
Not really a big deal as the first 2-3 can just be tossed back into the pot

Lastround
03-18-2014, 12:42 AM
I'm gonna try it.

johnny_xring
03-21-2014, 06:42 PM
I am also going to try it. Who'duh thunk? Back about late 90's the rage of moly coated (Jword) bullets was going on for the High Power Rifle shooters. Recommended technique was to make your own coated bullets by a complicated process (or buy them $$$) but you cleaned the bore with Kroil patches followed by 2-3 dry patches. The moly seasoned bore remained intact and it was supposed to enhance accuracy, barrel life, etc., etc. This was my first exposure to Kroil--awesome for cleaning the bores.

Got some new Sharpshooter USA molds (aluminum) earlier this week this that I might try this on. I will try to report back on the progress.

Rompin Ruger
04-20-2014, 09:37 PM
Been lurking and finally signed up....thought you guys were talking in some sort of secret code about Kroil ...till found this.

Did a good bit of casting back in 90's and put stuff away... back now and going to go full guns shortly still assembling stuff, but have to check out this NAPA connection for this stuff...on fixed income, the prices of the S&H for a lot of stuff keeps me on the ropes!

Thanks for allowing a nummie like me to read and learn.

Gotta admit, at this stage, I read, read, read some more and my post count just won't go up... don't know enough to even try to post...but this one compelled me to try!

62chevy
04-20-2014, 10:37 PM
Been lurking and finally signed up....thought you guys were talking in some sort of secret code about Kroil ...till found this.

Did a good bit of casting back in 90's and put stuff away... back now and going to go full guns shortly still assembling stuff, but have to check out this NAPA connection for this stuff...on fixed income, the prices of the S&H for a lot of stuff keeps me on the ropes!

Thanks for allowing a nummie like me to read and learn.

Gotta admit, at this stage, I read, read, read some more and my post count just won't go up... don't know enough to even try to post...but this one compelled me to try!

Don't feel bad started cast last year myself and still have a lot to learn. Thanks to places like this it will happen.

BAGTIC
04-21-2014, 03:41 PM
It appears that the main ingredient in Kroil is the solvent n-butyl acetate

Rompin Ruger
04-21-2014, 08:25 PM
Bagtic, et al,

I don't read labels. IF I can't pronounce it, all those words would do was either scare me or confuse me.

Reading all the posts, the seasoning aspect of Kroil appears to have similarities to things like Eezox and more recent (to me) Frog Lube stuff... heat, season metal, leaves pore infusion in place.

Anybody familiar with either of those compounds that are to penetrate the pores and leave a dry film behind and into the pores of the metal? Think they'd work?

Even the BP "Bore Butter" is reputed to "season" the bore thru heat and friction and make the inside of the BP gun barrel seasoned like a good black fry pan...????

I called every auto parts place around for 20 miles and 90% never heard of Kroil...one heard of it, but that was NAPA and they nor any other NAPA store had it around here...

dikman
04-24-2014, 02:02 AM
If you look at the MSDS, the major ingredients in Kroil - up to a maximum of 75% - are a combination of two petroleum distillates. Basically mineral oil. MMO is also 70% petroleum distillate (mineral oil). There's nothing particularly special about either of them (other than the advertising claims). WD-40 will probably have the same effect if applied to a mold - at least, for some people. I tried a similar product to WD-40, and it appeared to work ok - but after it had worn off the mold still kept working ok. My latest mold has had nothing done to it and is casting excellent round balls.

As for Bore Butter and it's "seasoning" capability :lol::lol::lol:. A certain black powder rifle manufacturer used to recommend using this to protect and preserve the bores on their rifles. They dropped this little item from their advertising (eventually). It appears that they were quietly replacing barrels from customers who had rusted bores after using this stuff! It cannot "season" the metal in a modern steel barrel, and it's rust prevention capabilities are minimal.

Rompin Ruger
04-24-2014, 08:22 PM
dikman,

Would you believe, I was more interested in this "new" Frog Lube stuff and/or EEzox. But tonite, at a reasonably local gun shop, I just was poking around and what to my wandering eye do I behold, but a can of Kroil! End of story. I now have that, plus the Frog Lube (different ingredients but looks and smells like the 'green' Bore Butter, which is why I mentioned it.

Thanks for the insight on the BButter NOT seasoning the bore... I'll get that crud outa my 2 guns directly and replace it with other products!

The concept in this original thread was that Kroil would penetrate the pores of the mould metal and "season" it in the sense that it created a molecular bond, or so I interpreted what I read...

In that sense, Frog Lube or Eezox would likely do the same, but alas, I know have KROIL! Yea...$14 seems like a lot for a small can... but alas, it's bought. Bring on good weather so I can fire up my furnace and start relearning to cast!

jonp
04-25-2014, 12:03 AM
Been lurking and finally signed up....thought you guys were talking in some sort of secret code about Kroil ...till found this.

Did a good bit of casting back in 90's and put stuff away... back now and going to go full guns shortly still assembling stuff, but have to check out this NAPA connection for this stuff...on fixed income, the prices of the S&H for a lot of stuff keeps me on the ropes!

Thanks for allowing a nummie like me to read and learn.

Gotta admit, at this stage, I read, read, read some more and my post count just won't go up... don't know enough to even try to post...but this one compelled me to try!

Been here just over a year and already have topped 3k posts. I read a lot but ask a ton of questions. There is no such thing as a stupid question and the guys and gals here have been good enough to either answer outright or send me to threads discussing what I am asking about. Welcome aboard and ask anything and everything. I've learned more here in 1yr than I could ever have learned on my own.

jonp
04-25-2014, 12:05 AM
If you look at the MSDS, the major ingredients in Kroil - up to a maximum of 75% - are a combination of two petroleum distillates. Basically mineral oil. MMO is also 70% petroleum distillate (mineral oil). There's nothing particularly special about either of them (other than the advertising claims). WD-40 will probably have the same effect if applied to a mold - at least, for some people. I tried a similar product to WD-40, and it appeared to work ok - but after it had worn off the mold still kept working ok. My latest mold has had nothing done to it and is casting excellent round balls.

As for Bore Butter and it's "seasoning" capability :lol::lol::lol:. A certain black powder rifle manufacturer used to recommend using this to protect and preserve the bores on their rifles. They dropped this little item from their advertising (eventually). It appears that they were quietly replacing barrels from customers who had rusted bores after using this stuff! It cannot "season" the metal in a modern steel barrel, and it's rust prevention capabilities are minimal.

I used Bore Butter to clean and it worked ok for me. Never considered it as a rust preventer.

dikman
04-26-2014, 08:11 AM
The MSDS is the magic "key" to many of these products. If you start comparing products, you'll find many use the same, or similar, ingredients. Petroleum distillates generally make up the bulk of many of these products (the CAS # is a good identifier). Often there are extra bits added, but in general they are in very small quantities, as an overall percentage, and as such can't have much effect on the product (other than make it smell nice).

Occasionally a manufacturer won't list the ingredients, usually claiming "proprietary rights" or some such thing, or will claim that there is nothing hazardous to the health in the product (or the latest seems to be claiming that it contains "all natural products"). All well and good, but if they won't state what's in it then I just get suspicious and I won't buy it. (For example, peanuts - and peanut oil - are all natural, but people have died from allergic reactions to the stuff. How can you determine something is safe if you don't know what's in it?).

As for whether a product works, the only way to find out is to try it, because for every happy user you can find someone equally unhappy with said product. Bottom line is if it works for you then that's all that matters.

Rompin Ruger
04-26-2014, 08:16 PM
Dikman,

You sound like you have chemistry background!:mrgreen:

As I said before, reading all that stuff reminds me of physics and chemistry classes... grandma used to give me a "physic" when I was stopped up.... never cared for the topic since! :veryconfu

From reading closely, the PROCESS seems to be as important as the product in the use of Kroil for seasoning moulds! therein lies the rub as you suggest....some have success, others might not and I suspect the process is a key ingredient with them all...

Now all I have to do is find handles that fit the RCBS moulds and I can heat them up and season them! :bigsmyl2:

FLYCUTTER
04-27-2014, 04:43 PM
Kroil oil is cheaper by the case, & delivered right to your door. I got hooked on their product long ago and like they say it turns rust into a soft mud and it creeps into the tightest spot. I also use their spray moly to season the barrel before a shoot to keep copper from fouling . Try using kroil to clean your guns , it works great.

sunburn
05-05-2016, 12:19 PM
I use Kroil for everything and a can lasts forever. Get a needle oiler and apply 1 drop at a time exactly where you want it. Brownells has both.

rbuck351
05-08-2016, 07:20 AM
I wonder why Kroil works in a mold for a bunch of you guys and is a total disaster for me. I have tried it twice and both times a mold that was casting well went to throwing wrinkled boolits until completely cleaned.

725
05-15-2016, 10:16 AM
I can't explain it either. If casting some wrinklers and can't quite get it all going, I use a Q-tip moistened with Kroil, wipe the cavity well and within a few casts they usually come out perfect. Might be a case of a very little goes a long way.

bangerjim
05-15-2016, 12:25 PM
Repeated wrinkled in cast boolits are caused NOT by oil, but from either a cold mold or cold alloy. Or both.

I have proven many times (as have many other on here) that pre-heating your mold to FULL CASTING TEMPERATURE (not just "warming it up" on your pot) on an electric hotplate, and having my alloy at sufficiently correct temp, I can drop perfect boolits from the 1st pour.....WITH oil in the mold cavities. The pre-heating will drive any oil out and any that is left will be easily displaced by the 1st pour/drop.

I also use my molds for making HMG boolits (you use ice cubes to COOL the mold) and use PAM as a lube/release agent. When I am done with the glue boolits, I just wipe off any PAM dripping off and go right into casting lead by preheating as stated above.

The old wives' tale about oil causing repeated wrinkles until all has been totally cleaned out has been dis-proven over the years by many more successful casters than I.

So - - - go ahead and use kroil or whatever other oil you want. I even get blue 2 cycle oil down in the cavities when lubing my plates and pins now and then. No scrubbing and cleaning and cleaning and scrubbing ever needed. Just a lot of HEAT from a good hotplate, not just sitting your mold on your pot as many of the old-timers used to do.

Works for me....................every time!

banger

too many things
05-17-2016, 07:11 AM
this is old post started few years back.
the Kroil does work for a release and lube. with NO build up. when you try to use too much you cool the mold and get the bad bullets. The mold has to be casting temp as Banger said. the Q tip works best. as it tends not to cool the mold as much.
I spray the mold when finished casting and put it away.Most times it will heat up and cast good the next time.
Kroil has a product that is better . but they don't sell any less than a gal. I got a gal but it was $180

TenTea
05-17-2016, 07:21 AM
Kroil has a product that is better . but they don't sell any less than a gal. I got a gal but it was $180

From their website...




Kroil 1/2 pint (8 oz.) can - $9.50 ea.

Aerokroil 10 oz. aerosol can - $13.50 ea.


Kroil case of 24/8 oz. cans - $168.05 /cs
Aerokroil [case of 12/10 oz. aerosol cans - $115.65 /cs



Kroil 1 gal. can - $53.85

Aerokroil Kingsize 13 oz. aerosol can - $15.00 ea.



Kroil 5 gal. pail - $228.25

Aerokroil Kingsize case of 12/13 oz. aerosol cans] - $138.15 /cs



Kroil 15 gal. drum - $637.50

AeroKroil Industrial Size 16.5 oz. aerosol can - $19.00 ea. https://websecure.concentric.com/kanolabs.com/images/newbut2.gif (https://websecure.concentric.com/kanolabs.com/images/newbut2.gif)



Kroil 55 gal. drum - $1987.15




http://www.kanolabs.com/

It is also sold on eBay & Amazon.

too many things
05-17-2016, 05:39 PM
they did drop the price by 1/2 but still high
its called pyrolube

Mal Paso
05-21-2016, 11:59 PM
they did drop the price by 1/2 but still high
its called pyrolube

I'd pay that rate or a little more for a quart or pint but I'd never use a gallon. I've got Kroil, Marvel, chain, gear, synthetic of every description, silicone, contact cleaner. B-12, electric grease, dielectric grease, pull lube, graphite, gun oil, 5 gun cleaners, case lube, bees wax, lanolin, Kerosene, Stoddard, Acetone, MEK, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, honing lube, threading and cutting oils, how many kinds of ATF?? and that off the top of my head. No Room For Gallons of Specialty Lube.:bigsmyl2:

rbuck351
05-22-2016, 08:54 AM
I tried it on a mold that was already up to temp and casting good boolits. Instant wrinkles for several more pours. I wonder why it went from good boolits to bad as soon as I wiped a bit of kroil in the mold. It didn't take a complete scrubbing to get it to cast well again. Just wiped it out with a q-tip with brake kleen and cast a few more and it was back to casting well again.

too many things
05-22-2016, 03:59 PM
you have to remember that when you put that on it evaporates . that will cool the inside of the mold. can either cast a few and toss or reheat, its the stuff left is what you want. Look back to the beginning , most of the old posts came around to see it works.
if you don't want to do it right , don't do it at all .
if you look at hot water and freezing , same deal. evaporation will make things react quicker

rbuck351
05-23-2016, 07:15 AM
Fair enough. It doesn't work for me so I'm done with it. My molds cast very nice without Kroil so I don't have any molds that Kroil would fix to start with. Putting a drop on a q-tip and wiping the cavities of a mold that is very hot and casting fine only to have it start throwing wrinkled boolits for the next 10 or 15 casts (that's about where I quit) is not my idea of "IT WORKS". Kroil does work very well for what it was made for. Anyway Kroil away if it works for you. It does not work for me. It does clean out easy enough though. A shot of brake kleen (that cool things a bit ) and a quick wipe with a dry q-tip and it's back to throwing good boolits.

SSGOldfart
05-23-2016, 03:43 PM
Whiteout reading 7 pages of why it works and why it don't is this this the answer for stargazing molds in a high hot humid south? I'm still getting a little surface rust on a few well oiled spruce plates? Even after wrapping them in a VCI- paper( I can not remember what its called, I've tried bagging spraying oil, still have a few small rust,spots my collections has grown to large to store in the house,,over 250 now, too many to have to clean the light rust off,it only shows up on the spruce plates none in the cavities.

jimofaz
05-24-2016, 04:19 PM
Frog Lube fared well in this corrosion test.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_784402149&feature=iv&src_vid=WqXi947z0Ck&v=7KCHARdTCjE