Marlin lever action triggers

[dubber123]

I had this information given to me by a member, and I will try to pass it on at the request of another member. The origional directions are long gone, so I will try to show the procedure as best I can.

The "subject" http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0056.jpg Open the action about 3/4", and remove this screw. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0057.jpg

Remove the lever and bolt, noting where the ejector goes in the frame. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0059.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0060.jpg

Remove the tang screw, and pull off the stock. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0058.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0061.jpg

Slide the mainspring retainer out the LH side, and remove the mainspring. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0062.jpg

Remove the hammer pivot screw. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0063.jpg

Remove the bottom trigger plate screw. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0068.jpg

[454PB]

And..........then what?

[dubber123]

And..........then what?

Patience, Non computer geek here... :oops:

[dubber123]

Too many pics, had to start over.

Next step, remove the side trigger plate screw. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0066.jpg

Pull the trigger plate down out of the action. The hammer can now be removed also. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0069.jpg

You can put the hammer back together on the trigger plate if you wish, to get an idea of how everything works. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0082.jpg

A slip fit pin holds the sear and trigger together. Note the direction the sear faces, and slide out the pin. Nothing goes flying, don't worry. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0072.jpg

The trigger and sear: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0073.jpg

The actual work: The sear has an angle ground on it, other than a LIGHT deburring/polishing, it gets no work to THIS surface. DO NOT change any angles. The hammer notch is treated likewise. On the BACK side of the sear, file it on a 45° angle to the existing sear surface. I like to take off about 50% of the sear suface to start. This crappy drawing may give you a better idea: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0081.jpg Make sure you don't make the rear angle too sharp, it needs to be steep enough to hold the sear out on the tip. If you make it too sharp, it just slides deeper into the hammer notch, and you will still have a crappy trigger.

Re assemble the gun in reverse order, (I always wanted to say that). Test the contact by pushing forward on the cocked hammer fairly hard. It is unlikely, but now is the time to find out if it slips. I actually apply a fair bit of pressure, and dry fire 50 times or so, as this burnishes the surfaces and saves alot of ammo. Check the pull, you may be happy, if not, go back and reduce the contact area more.

This is the best pic I could get of the finished sear, (thanks Tom), http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/dubber123/IMG_0090.jpg

This one took 3 trips back in, but it went from a 4.75# pull, with a little creep, to 2.0# and super crisp. You can push all you want and it will not slip. How adventurous you get is up to you, but my brother and I have done every one we have, and 3# or less is easy, and all are perfectly safe.


THE DISCLAIMER: I'm no gunsmith, and you probably aren't either. If you like to tinker, this might be right up your alley. All responsibility for your handi work is ultimately yours. I bet alot of guys can use this info, and other than your time, it costs nothing, and still uses full power springs. (NO misfires from too light of a spring). I hope this helps some of you.

[RNyogi]

[smilie=1:Does this work on all Marlin levers?

[dubber123]

[smilie=1:Does this work on all Marlin levers?

Ha ha funny guy... :-P ( He has a .35 that seems content to stay at 4.5# no matter what I do). I think I have that one figured out too. Bring it back over... :roll:

[joatmon]

Thanks for this! I'll give it a try on some of mine.
Aaron

[Morrison Machine Shop]

The suspence is killing me!

[qajaq59]

dubber 123, Thanks for the info. I finally got time to sit down and read it. I'll let you know if I get the nerve to try it, or have someone a little more mechical then me give it a shot for me.
Qajaq 59

[RNyogi]

Ha ha funny guy... :-P ( He has a .35 that seems content to stay at 4.5# no matter what I do). I think I have that one figured out too. Bring it back over... :roll:

Well I have to take back my little dig:kidding: Dubber got my Marlin 336 in 35 Rem down to a crisp 2.5#. Well done:drinks:
He also did a great job bringing my Ruger M77 down to 2.25#'s.
I really appreciate it. You guys are the best!:grin:

[Suo Gan]

Great pictures and drawing, really nice for a visual learner.

[dubber123]

Great pictures and drawing, really nice for a visual learner.

Thanks, I hope it helps a few shooters out.