Swedish Mauser - Dayton Trigger

[Dutchman]

This procedure is not recommended for collectible all matching # rifles. You will lower the value if you do this to an upper tier rifle. But this rifle below is a FrankenSwede built completely from various parts. Its one of my several guilt-free fun range rifles.

This shows the location where you have to remove a plug of wood. In addition to this little square piece of wood you also have to open up the hole where the trigger extends down through the stock. But with the Dayton you don't have to alter the triggerguard. With the Timney you do have to alter the triggerguard and you have to make the clearance hole for the trigger much larger. For this reason I prefer the Dayton trigger.

http://images52.fotki.com/v1566/photos/2/28344/377112/DSCF8983dt-vi.jpg

Left is the Timney trigger, right is the Dayton. Pencil points to the larger section of the Timney that requires more wood removed where the trigger sticks down through the stock.

http://images50.fotki.com/v1569/photos/2/28344/377112/DSCF8993dt-vi.jpg

This shows how much larger the Timney is from the Dayton.

http://images51.fotki.com/v1562/photos/2/28344/377112/DSCF8996dt-vi.jpg

Primary tools. A high speed rotary tool is a big help (Dremel).
http://images52.fotki.com/v1565/photos/2/28344/377112/DSCF9000dt-vi.jpg

[Dutchman]

"Measure twice, cut once".

Start conservative. You can open this area up more as you go.

http://images50.fotki.com/v1569/photos/2/28344/377112/DSCF9009dt-vi.jpg

This is what you end up with. Its a good size chunk of wood, almost 1/2" square plus opening up the hole for the trigger. I used a rotary tool with a small sanding drum and a couple files for the trigger hole.

http://images52.fotki.com/v1566/photos/2/28344/377112/DSCF9013dt-vi.jpg

http://images51.fotki.com/v1560/photos/2/28344/377112/DSCF9017dt-vi.jpg

Installing the trigger is straight forward.

http://images52.fotki.com/v1563/photos/2/28344/377112/DSCF9020dt-vi.jpg

The trigger is a bit further to the rear of the triggerguard than the military trigger. It also has a bit more radius to it. But overall both those areas are positive and result in much better trigger feel. Not to mention the now single stage and much lighter trigger pull. The benefit of this much better trigger is much more accurate shooting. I've done this with 2 Swedish Mausers and my one 98/29 Czech Persian Mauser 8x57mm.

http://images50.fotki.com/v1569/photos/2/28344/377112/DSCF9023dt-vi.jpg

Dutch

[andremajic]

Nice. It looks like you did some pillar bedding on the rifle as well. How does it look fully assembled?

Andy.

[Dutchman]

Mausers come with a steel sleeve in the rear triggerguard hole to limit over tightening of the rear guardscrew.

This is how it looked with the standard military trigger. Looks the same now except the trigger is further to the rear of the triggerguard.
http://images42.fotki.com/v1375/photos/2/28344/157842/yr14-vi.jpg


Dutch

[45nut]

Nicely detailed and photographed Dutch! Thanks!

[Shootn]

Have you ever tried the Speed-Lock cock-on-opening conversion that Dayton also sells? They sell a package of the trigger and the Speed Lock for about $70. I had thought of trying it on my Swede sporter. The lock-time on those is slow.

[Spector]

I had the cock on open kit installed on my first Swede 96. I do not care for it.

I do like the Dayton traister triggers though. I have another Swede that remains cock on close with just the trigger installed and I much prefer that set up.

Several years ago I emailed Dayton Traister and asked if I modifed the cock on open cocking piece and installed the new spring they provide is it possible to leave it cock on close, but get the benefit of the shorter firing pin fall and faster lock time. I was told it is possible to do it that way..........Mike

[Shootn]

I had the cock on open kit installed on my first Swede 96. I do not care for it.

I do like the Dayton traister triggers though. I have another Swede that remains cock on close with just the trigger installed and I much prefer that set up.

Several years ago I emailed Dayton Traister and asked if I modifed the cock on open cocking piece and installed the new spring they provide is it possible to leave it cock on close, but get the benefit of the shorter firing pin fall and faster lock time. I was told it is possible to do it that way..........Mike

What was it you did not like about that cock on opening conversion?

Derek

[Dutchman]

See this new thread on shortening the lock time on the m/1896 Swedish Mauser.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?p=650124#post650124

I've been shooting the m/1896 for a long time. Since I was a teenager... 1969. I don't have a problem at all with cock-on-closing. I like it. I also like a straight bolt handle as its much faster than a bent bolt handle.

Invariably its newbie shooters who want cock-on-open bolt action rifles... and bent bolt handles. If I had a dime for every time I heard that from a newbie....

While at the bench shooting any/most of my Mausers, either pre-98 or 98 actions I work that bolt fluid smooth and fast. The cock-on-closing actions are faster than the 98 actions.

Dutch

[Spector]

When I bought my first Swede rifle back around 1992 I took it to a gunsmith and asked him to sporterize it. When I got it back from the gunsmith the bolt lift was very heavy. I polished mating surfaces and it got much smoother. Good enough I thought. It is still a very accurate rifle. And yes, I was one of those newbee Swede shooters Dutchman describes.

I sporterized my 2nd Swede 96 myself turning it into a scout rifle. I modified the rear sight base into a scout mount by regrinding the shape. It allows me to have a very low mounted scope and retain the straight bold handle. I've learned to love the cock on close operation of this rifle.

I have 5 Swede 96's, two of them sporterized.

I had 2 Swede 38's. Loved the look of them, but in the end I gave them away to friends.

Only if you want to sporterize and mount a scope over the receiver is there any need for a bent bolt, and then it will need to be bent down more than a 38 bolt.

The Dayton Traister cocking piece can be modified to accomplish the same thing as the modifed 96 cocking piece. Your choice.

I find myself in complete agreement with Dutchman on the straight bolt handles and cock on close operation...........Mike

[Nose Dive]

Nice old Swede Dutch. Put a timeny on mine. Much the same stock mod. Nice piece.