Who makes Swaging dies.

[buckshot&brass]

Anybody besides Corbin?
I would like a simple die for .22 pellets that I could use in my reloading press.
Keith flat nose or round,skirted or non skirted.
Using pure lead and 20 or 30 grains of lead.

Any suggestions.

[mac0083]

Hi Buckshot, Corbin has a brother that makes them also. There is a man in Louisiana that makes them, his name is Blackmon. He is a doctor by trade and does swage dies on the side. He doesn't have a website, but somebody on this forum posted a ".pdf" of his brochure. There is a company called CH40 that makes them. And lately, we have been talking about making our own dies... stay tuned on that!

http://www.ch4d.com/

[bohica2xo]

Swaging air rifle pellets is a picky little job. They are very sensitive to weight variations, rifling engagement is shallow, etc. I have done this job, and I found the only way to make good accurate pellets is a 2 die process.

Die #1 Blank forming
This die forms what would be a core in a jacketed bullet. It must set the weight of the finished pellet, and the bleed hole should be on the side of the die so that the bleed is sheared as the part is ejected from the die. A rough shape forming can be done in this die as well if you like, but is not necessary.

Die #2
Finish forming
This die finishes the shape & size of the pellet. Removing any imperfection frm shearing the bleed, ensuring roundness. This die needs no bleed, and should be very close tolerance.

A .22 diameter pellet that heavy should be a skirted bore rider that looks like a Sheridan pellet. If you make the die right, the driving band at the base of the pellet can be adjusted for length by adjusting the base punch stroke. The nose punch can be made in any configuration, and experimentation is expected...

The dies can be a bit of a pain to make, but you can have a lot of fun making oddball pellets. Having made many punches for that project, I can tell you that the hollow base with the driving band works the best. Keep the skirt thin enough to allow for good sealing, and make the driving band step match the bore/groove dimensions of your rifle. Recovered pellets should have full depth engraving in the driving band, and may show some rifling on as much as 50% of their length depending on how much pressure you are driving them with.

Good luck with your project.

B.

[ANeat]

There is a guy on Corbins classifieds that has some pellet dies for sale. Its an old add so who knows what may be available

http://www.corbins.com/used.htm

[buckshot&brass]

Thanks I'll check those places out.

mac0083 Keep me posted if you decide to make some.

bohica2xo Thanks for the advice I'll keep that in mind.

ANeat Thanks but I wonder......2002 it has been awhile.

[deltaenterprizes]

I think he has been out of business for a long time!

[buckshot&brass]

deltaenterprizes
You are referring to Pellet Man?
The fellow on the Corbin used site.
I even heard he had passed.

Sound like I have a few fellow air gunners here.

[ONE2DHEAD]

Sound like I have a few fellow air gunners here.
You have another one right here.I'm interested in making .22,.25 and .50 cal bullets/pellets,and was hoping to find some info here.
So far I've found some pretty interesting stuff on here and have a few ideas.
Dose anyone know where I can buy a mold for a .25 pellet/bullet?
I say pellet/bullet because I enjoy shooting solid pellets (Preferably hollow tips) sort of like
these .25's
http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/zoomed_model.pl?model_id=676&type=P
and these .50's
http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/zoomed_model.pl?model_id=607&type=P