Marlin light 30-30 and 357/38 loads

[GORLO]

Hi gents. I recently picked up Lee molds to work up some light plinking/varmint loads for my Marlin rifles. Got the C309-113f & 358-105-swc. I have quite a variety of powders to choose from. The only cast manual I have is a bit out of date (Lyman 45th ed) so I was curious if anyone has had success with these boolits. I would be leaning toward 38spl rather than 357 as I have more of that brass. Any suggestions for starting loads appreciated. Thanks.

[runfiverun]

if you say what powders you have on hand it will help.
titegroup,unique,clays,bullseye,2400 all should have good data available.

[corvette8n]

Try 8gr of Unique under the .30-.30 .309-113

[EDK]

gmdr.com has a web site with a load of levergun specific reduced loads.
The Hodgdon Cowboy Action booklets (freebies!) give a good starting place.

I've got a lot of 38 brass compared to 357 (doesn"t everyone?) but I prefer the 357 brass to avoid issues with the chamber.

You might have problems with working your loads through the action because of boolit lengths. I am using group buys #311041PB (170 grain) and 360180WFN in my 30/30 and 357 Cowboy rifles. Your 357 boolit might cycle in magnum brass, but a heavier round nose/flat point would probably be a better choice.

Another caution: Conventional wisdom on MARLINS is fat boolits and cast hard. I'm using .311 and .359 currently and just got a .361 sizer die.

Sorry to be negative, but I'd prefer to save you some headaches if I can. You've got rifles in the best calibers for general use and inexpensive components...if you've got some small pistol primers; I haven't seen any for sale around St Louis MO in awhile.

:Fire::cbpour::redneck:

[GORLO]

Thanks for the replies. I haven't loaded anything but jacketed for both these rifles so I wasn't aware of feeding issues. EDK, would a 160gr swc loaded in a 38spl work better in your opinion or would you stick to 357 brass only? My 30-30 and 357 rifles slug out at .308 and .357 respectively and I planned on sizing to .310 and .359 for starters. I have all the powders (except titegroup) mentioned by runfiverun plus about a dozen other Win and Hodgdon shotgun and rifle powders. I like spherical powders best on my Dillon 550. Stocked up on all components years ago figuring they'd keep going up in price. Same for ww, pb & solder. Probably 1K lbs. This site inspired me to get back to casting. I was caught short with few molds but that is being remedied. I also have a Marlin .44 guide gun (ported) but wasn't sure if the porting would shave lead with cast. Like the handy rifle, hate the porting (loud!).

[EDK]

If you haven't gone there, go to lasc.us and read Glenn Fryxell's articles. Marlinowners.com is another good site.

The problem with 38 brass is that it builds a carbon ring in your 357 rifle chamber and if you don't clean it, it can damage the chamber or raise pressures or both. I quit using special brass in my magnums for that reason BUT I still clean revolver chambers after each outing. This also applies to 44 magnums and 44 special brass. The KEITH boolits have to be loaded in special brass to feed in the MARLINS or you play with over all length and crimp IN the front band, rather than the crimp groove.

You'll probably be OK at .310 and .359 diameters. Depending on your sizer, dies are inexpensive or you can hone them out a little at a time if you feel the need.

I got caught a bit short on components, but it caused me to experiment with powders. HP-38 (231) worked better than TITEGROUP in the 44; they both work well in 357s. Since it is mostly pistol, but I want decent performance in the Cowboy rifles, I use the pistol powders...and the powder goes a lot further too.

Round nose/flat point works best, but some semi-wadcutters work well. I use 358157 GC, 357446, 358665, 358429 and NOE 360180 WFN; 44 is 429244PB, 429215, 429667, 427666. I've got some others, but have used most of these. If you use a taper crimp, you can really play with overall length and get almost anything to feed well.

You might check over at marlin owners about the porting issues. If I could close the ports without hurting accuracy, I wouldn't cry! OR someone might be dying to take it off your hands and then you buy something unported. (I LOST a 44 MARLIN out of a saddle scabbard in 1975 (long story) and it was recovered from the brush a year later. I had it re-blued, re-finished the wood, cut the barrel to 16.5 and LYMAN receiver sights installed. I gave to my step son and he traded it. I wish I had it now.)

There's plenty of moulds if you look a bit...surprisingly eBAY has worked pretty well for me...AFTER the classifieds or WANT TO BUY here. MIDSOUTH, NATCHEZ SHOOTERS SUPPLY, etc are getting more moulds in....check their web sites.

:Fire::cbpour::redneck: