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View Full Version : Lee Auto Prime: Quick Fix



Maven
08-01-2009, 12:20 PM
A few months ago, Joe B. wrote about problems with his Lee Auto Prime not seating the primers fully. After my very reliable .30-06 wouldn't fire a dozen rounds or so, I began wondering whether some of the primers were bad (CCI #34's), whether the firing pin was chipped, not protruding enough or impeded by dirt in the bolt body. Btw, some of the rounds DID fire, but required several hits by the firing pin. After I got home and pulled the CB's, I found the powder was intact, thus reinforcing the bad primer idea. I then took a few of the recovered primers and seated them with my Lee Auto Prime, which I then discovered, didn't seat them to the proper depth: I used a Lachmiller bench primer to determine this. When I took the auto Prime apart, I discovered the steel part which bears on the rod that actually seats the primer (Part #1003 @ $2.50 ea. + shipping) was worn at that very spot. Although I ordered several replacements from Lee via their website, I thought I had nothing to lose by trying to fix the one I had. This is what I did:

First, I degreased part #1003 and then sanded its top surface with 180 grit sandpaper.

Second, I cut a piece of shim brass that would fit the top surface of that part and annealed it (the shim brass). You need to do this to be able to bend it to fit properly.

Third, I mixed some 5 min. epoxy and glued the annealed shim to part #1003, allowing it to cure for 24 hrs. You can probably use gap filling Crazy Glue (cyanoacrylic cement) instead of the epoxy, but the latter is pretty tenacious.

That's all there is to it. Does it work? I seated a few primers with the modified part and they were at the proper depth, so I suppose it does; i.e. at least until the new part arrives.

felix
08-01-2009, 12:38 PM
Yeah, Maven, I do the same thing. Instead, I moly the shim, made out of a beer can, on both sides. Every once in a while the shim moves off of the cam, so the glue job might last longer. I like to feel the primer hit rock bottom in every instance. ... felix

DLCTEX
08-01-2009, 01:13 PM
My Auto Primes seat the primer all the way before the lever hits the stop against the body if the tool. Is that the case with a worn one? I was thinking when I read the post by Joe B. that I could tell if the primer wasn't being seated all the way by the lever hitting the body. In other words, if the lever hits the body it's an indication of wear that needs repair. Am I correct in this?

felix
08-01-2009, 01:28 PM
Yes! You should not feel the handle go against the body. ... felix

StarMetal
08-01-2009, 01:42 PM
I use the RCBS handprimer so don't have that problem. [smilie=1:

Joe

canebreaker
08-02-2009, 09:34 AM
I have 2 auto primers. Had to buy one when I got to nashville without mine. The new one, bought in spring 2009, seats the primer with lever about half way to handle.
My old one, bought in ann. kit in 1994, seats the primer when lever is almost to handle. Looks like I'll try the shim repair first before ordering a new part.
Thanks for the repair tip.

Maven
08-04-2009, 07:17 PM
The part that I ordered, #1003, on July 31 arrived today. I think Lee Precision, the mail room in particular, should be commended for their fast service!

1hole
08-05-2009, 08:42 AM
All metal moving parts need lubrication to reduce wear.

For the price of RCBS' clunky priming tools, they should last longer. So...?

Calamity Jake
08-05-2009, 09:37 AM
All metal moving parts need lubrication to reduce wear.

For the price of RCBS' clunky priming tools, they should last longer. So...?

Yap, I keep mine lubed too. I've only broken(not warn out) one that was over 20 years old, the casting just behine the SH broke.