Scratched FL shell sizing die

[Harry]

What compound can be used to remove scratches in a FL die? I have new nickel brass 357 unprimed cartridges. I started sizing them using a pad soaked with a mix of STP and motor oil ( might have been a mistake). I lubed about every 2nd or 3rd shell. Then I noticed verticle scratches around the shell. I cleaned the inside of the die with a clean lint free cloth before starting. I have some "Mirror Glaze" polishes #3, #4, and #6. Would these work with a dremel and felt polisher?

[Calamity Jake]

The scratches are caused by nickel flakes sticking to the die. The #3 MG should take it out.
Soak it in some kroll overnight first, that should help loosen it.

[DLCTEX]

Depends on how deep the scratches are, I have used fine emery cloth , then polished. STP has worked fine for me. Is the nickle flaking off the cases?

[StarMetal]

I doesn't necessarily have to be the nickle coming off. Nickle is hard, so if you pick up any kind of abrasive debri, it will scratch the die more so then if the case was plain brass.

Joe

[Harry]

Thanks for the replies, guys. All of my old 38 and 357's are nickel, from way back in the 50s and 60s, so I just wanted to keep things the same. I thought they would last for more reloads than standard brass. Maybe I shouldn't think so much.
There is no noticable flaking of the nickel. I noted that the scratching got progressively worse. Could too much or too little lube cause this? I just lightly roll the upper portion of every other case across the lube pad.
Is Kroll availble in local stores like hardware or Lowes?

Thanks again

[AZ-Stew]

This is why all my handgun dies are carbide. Handgun ammo is shot in such high quantity that lubing before sizing and cleaning the cases afterward are impractical. Carbide doesn't require lube and won't scratch if your cases are relatively clean. No scratches on the dies, no scratches on the cases. The slight price differential is WELL worth it.

Regards,

Stew

[Harry]

AZ-Stew,

Point well taken. I plan on investing in carbide dies. I've just been using the old EZY-Loader and dies that my dad used back in the late '50s. They still seem to work OK, except when I scratch them like I did today. When financially able, I will invest in a new(er) set up, such as press, dies, etc. For now, I am limping along with the old Lyman.

[Echo]

I use a dowel with some Scotch Brite epoxied on. Put a drop of cutting oil, and a small smidgen of jeweler's rouge, chuck it in the DP, or even a hand drill. Works for me...

[HeavyMetal]

If not beburred before sizing a rough, Nickeled, case mouth will scratch the snot out of a steel die.

Polish with Mirrow Glaze as needed altough I've often found 1400 grit on a dowel is better and faster if you have a way to spin the die!

Once your scratchs are gone trim and deburr all your nickeled brass or it will happen again in short order. Also running already scratched case's back through won't help it any either!

[woody1]

I just flat won't run anything but brass cases thru a steel die. Nickel go thru carbide or I don't use 'em. Regards, Woody

[jonk]

It is my experience that such scratches are cosmetic only. They don't impact the performance of the gun or brass.

And if that's the case who cares? Strike that- I can understand caring- I just don't personally. Yes, I clean my brass before sizing 99% of the time. Still over the years a few dies have gotten scratched and scratch brass in turn. It doesn't shoot any differently.

For removal I'd toss in my ultrasonic for a few cycles to get the die totally clean, then use about the finest grinding compound I could get, then back in the ultrasonic.