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insanelupus
07-18-2009, 02:06 AM
Wheel weights are getting tough to come by. Most shops near me are reusing what they can. I’ve had to really scrounge to come up with about ¼ of the wheel weights I was able to get last year. Prices are a little lower this year, about $0.15 / pound, but I’m finding a higher concentration of Zn clip on and stick on wheel weights. I also typically have about a 30% loss due to steel clips, junk, lug nuts, valve stems, dirt and other assorted variables that find their way into the mix. I’m not figuring in the cost of propane or the 30% loss into the initial purchase price to melt them into my RCBS ingots.

I bought 130 pounds + of lead today at about $0.20 / pound, already in ingot form. Hopefully, if it’s useable, it’ll be a good deal. If not, I blew $25 on a gamble. But, I’m inclined to believe I need to purchase a lead hardness tester. I’m considering the Cabin Tree tester, the LBT tester, and the Lee tester, in that order. I’ve heard good things about the Cabin Tree. I want the tester mostly to at least know (or have a really educated guess) as to the BHN of the alloy.

The man I bought them from at a garage sale said it was an alloy of wheel weights, diver’s weights, roof flashing, and the lead ring from under toilets. I was under the impression this would be softer than my wheel weight alloy (I had a good idea of the BHN of all but the “diver’s weights”, which I assumed were soft, a possible mistake on my part) I was currently casting with and would be a good thing to use in .45 Long Colt (using traditional loads), .45-70 (again, a traditional type load), and .38 Specials. Now I’m not so sure. He may have thrown everything in but the kitchen sink!

Some of the muffin tin ingots have a slightly “galvanized” pattern in the oxidation at the bottom and sides of the lead. I am assuming this is a left over from the muffin tin he used as an ingot mould. The tops of these “muffins” don’t have that pattern and when scratched with a fingernail the oxidation gives way to a bright silvery look.

However, I used a steel ball bearing and my RCBS ingot molded wheel weight alloy and did some tests with different ingots pulled from the top of the piles. I also then tried a test with my RCBS ingots poured from stick on wheel weights (nearly pure lead). I placed both ingots in a vice with a ball bearing between them and then cranked on the handle until it couldn’t go any more, then I let them sit a few minutes and took them out and measured them. Measurements were done under magnification with a set of calipers. One problem I saw immediately, most ingots are not precisely “flat” as the edges tend to be raised a touch more than the center of the ingots on the bottom. This may have affected my tests as some of the ingots it was tough to keep the bearing on the flat spots. Also, each test only can compare between the two materials, not the entire test results as the time and pressure applied was a considerable variable between tests.

Results are as follows:

? = Mystery Alloy
WW = Wheel Weights
SoWW = Stick on Wheel Weights


Test 1
? = .294”
WW = .244”


Test 2
? = .226"
WW = .300"


Test 3
? = .226”
WW = .292”


Test 4
? = .196”
WW = .261”


Test 5
? = .212”
SoWW = .346”


Test 6
WW = .258”
SoWW = .352”


These 130 pounds appear to be a mixture of several different casting sessions as at least one ingot appears to be softer than the wheel weight mix. However, 3 of 4 are a harder alloy for some reason. At least they appear to be due to the smaller indentation from the wheel weight alloy. Tests 2-4 it is interesting to note that the comparison between the ? and WW indicates the ? alloy is about 23-25% harder than the WW alloy (by numerical comparison). I know the WW alloy and SoWW alloy is good, I melted it myself. Test 5 and 6 was done simple for a comparison purpose as a constant (using the same SoWW ingot).

I’m not sure what to do with the mystery alloy now. My inclination is to pick some of this “harder” alloy (in comparison to the WW) and melt it in my little 10 pound pot and using a thermometer, regulate the temperature to stay below 750 degrees. If I can do this and the ingots melt fine, I’ll assume it is all useable lead, just a harder alloy and cast accordingly. If it is “mush” at 750 degrees, then I’ll know it’s contaminated with Zn and relegate it to “fish sinker alloy” and sell it off as such. Even if it’s only good for fish sinkers I think I can at least get my money back out of it.

I hope I’m not disappointed. I was really hoping this was a softer alloy. I don’t really want to test every one of the 92 ingots of the mystery alloy, but I might. Then I can at least sort it out as “softer than WW” and “harder than WW”. Might make for a boring night though, but then, who knows, perhaps a nice winter project to stash away for those cold Montana nights!

Anyone have any suggestions, thoughts, ideas, or other input? Maybe I’ve overlooked something. I might as well get used to this, as it appears scrounging for lead might be more conducive to building up a small stockpile of it than wheel weights. I just hate shooting and casting an alloy I can’t positively identify as being at least non -contaminated and at least some idea of a BHN.

HeavyMetal
07-18-2009, 02:43 AM
Do you have any other way to melt this mystery metal other than a 10 lb pot?

If you do then here's my thoughts on your problem.

First a lead hardness tester is good to have if only so you know the BHN number of the alloy you buy or make. Pick the one that's easiest to use and easy on your pocket.

I have the lee and it's OK but tough to get to hold still to get a reading. I went to a local toys r us and bought a toy microscope for 20 buck and tore it apart and fitted the lee microscope into it! Made it lots easier to read!

I also have a couple of full wadcutter molds for my 44. I use these to make test plugs for the lee tester they fit right on the "table" and allow perfect adjustment of the device to get a reading and you don't have to "file" a flat spot on the boolit ( which I think throws off the test)

Now that we know how I test and what I use to test with lets talk about your mystery metal.

I have a large dutch oven that will hold about a 100 Lbs of molten metal if you have a setup like this or can borrow one I'd fire that puppy up and melt all your mystery metal at one time and MAKE INGOTS OUT OF IT AGAIN AND MARK THEM ACCORDINGLY!

As the alloy was being fluxed and prior to making ingots I'd heat you a wadcutter mold and make a dozen or so boolits to test after I got the alloy into ingots.

If you got zinc in this batch of lead it will show here and you won't contaminate your casting pot!

When you get that all done test the sample boolits you made and see what the BHN is and then you will have 100 lbs, or more, of an alloy you will at least know the hardness of so you can blend it or cast with it as it is.

I realize I'm suggesting a bit of work but if you don't do this you'll never have more than a guess at what you bought or how to blend it.

Springfield
07-18-2009, 03:11 AM
You need a bigger pot. Mine holds about 175 lbs. I melt on a turkey fryer. Do like the previous poster said and melt it all down at once and make a large consistent batch. Otherwise you will never know from one cast to the next what you can expect.

Matt_G
07-18-2009, 08:51 AM
^^
+1

Get one consistent batch out of it.
Assuming that it isn't contaminated with Zinc, then you can decide how much stick on alloy to mix with it to get the results you desire for any given application.
Do you have a thermometer?
Watch the heat when you melt all that. Keep it at 650 or less.
Remember that zinc melts at 782 roughly...

Good luck and let us know how this turns out.

insanelupus
07-18-2009, 09:27 AM
I have a larger cast iron pot, I can get about 50 pounds, give or take, in it at a time. That's my smelting pot, seperate from my casting pot. The little 10 pound pot is just an old cast iron pot for doing small projects. I may end up smelting it all down into a few big lots after all.

blackthorn
07-18-2009, 10:26 AM
As for a testor for BHN, I have an LBT and I am real happy with it! It is easy to use and gives repeatable readings.

As for the 130 lbs of lead, I would get a big pot and melt it into 3 batches. Test each batch for BHN. That way if you have some zinc in one batch you have only lost 1/3 of the total. If all of it shows no likelyhood of having the dreaded zinc, putting one ingot from each "batch" into the casting pot should give you a fairly repeatable BHN.

insanelupus
07-18-2009, 02:11 PM
I just borrowed an LBT tester, to be continued.... lol

dolang1
07-18-2009, 02:27 PM
I turned 62 lbs. of mystery lead into sinkers for my brother's jug fishing habit. I used fence wire for the hook. They weigh just under 2 lbs. Later Don

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

leadman
07-18-2009, 04:56 PM
Weigh a sample of the boolits you use with the alloy you know. Then when you melt all the mystery lead cast a same size sample of boolits and weigh then while your mystery lead is still hot. This will give you and idea if it harder or softer since softer will probably be heavier. You can also do a hardness test but it will probably be a littler softer then what it will be in a week.
This is how I try to make my 100# batches of alloy the same and not perfect, but they are usually within a couple number on the BHN scale.
That galvanized look is probably from some linotype he put in the ingots. I use lino as a substitute for tin in my WW and this is what I get when the ingots have some age on them.
Another crude tets is the ball peen test. Take a sample boolit from the mystery lead and a sample of what you want and try to hit each one the same on the nose when they are on the floor. I said it was crude, but you can somewhat feel them expand.

kamikaze1a
07-18-2009, 05:37 PM
I use the thumbnail hardness test...good for garage sale tests.

Pressing with my thumbnail; easy mark, pure lead. Hardly any mark, alloy. No mark...caution!